Finished this mod the other day.Links to pics got messed up - here it is again:
So I liked the idea of putting in new drawer slides for the Bestop boxes as the only drawback to the product seems to be the limited access to the drawer interior based on how much (or how little) the drawers extend from the boxes.
But after trying twice - the 2nd time I bought lower profile drawer slides at Lowe's but they were problematic as they are also thinner than the other slides but at least they fit better since they're just over 1" tall - I decided there's got to be another, simpler way.
I've been thinking about this since I bought the boxes and I realized that it's not worth going to the trouble of fussing with installing new drawer slides. The ones that come with the Bestop boxes are just fine.
A much simpler (IMO) and better approach would be to remove the drawer stop and put in a new one so that the drawer will pull out farther giving you better access to the interior of the drawer and the items stored in it. And by doing this it means there's no reason to mess with buying new drawer slides and then removing and trying to replace the Bestop box slides.
Here's the factory-made Bestop box with the drawer extended out as far as it will go:
Step one is to remove the bottom panel and then slide out the drawer. Here's a pic of the Bestop box with the bottom panel removed (8 small phillips head screws) and you can see the stop on the bottom of the drawer - it contacts the L-shaped bracket tack-welded to the bottom of the drawer:
Here's a pic of the drawer out of the box:
Bestop has a tack-welded 'L' shaped piece of steel to stop the drawer from coming all the way out and it's what limits how far the drawer extends.
Step two is to remove the L-shaped tack-welded bracket (the "drawer stop") from the bottom panel. You can see the L-shaped bracket (drawer stop) on the panel before it's removed.
Here's the bracket tack-welded to the inside of the removable bottom panel:
Here's a picture of the bottom panel of a Bestop box with the drawer stop tack-welded on it and another bottom panel with the drawer stop tack-welded steel angle piece removed. The bracket comes off very easily with a few bangs using a chisel and hammer. You can see the bottom panel with the L-stop bracket (top of the picture) and the panel with the bracket removed (bottom of the picture). You can touch-up the steel if the exposed metal bothers you.
As you can see this L-shaped bracket limits the drawer travel and the bolt & nut I used as the new drawer stop gives the drawer almost 3 more inches of additional of travel:
I have all kinds of nuts and bolts and washers and other hardware and I just happened to have a couple of short bolts with matching nuts. I used a split (lock) washer on the bolt to make sure the nut stays on the bolt and it helped keep the nut up high enough to contact the drawer stop tab. Of course you'll want to make sure the bolt isn't so tall that it scrapes the bottom of the drawer.
I simply marked a spot in the center of the bottom panel (in line with the tack-welded bracket I removed) and drilled a hole for the bolt. Here’s another pic of the drawer stop nut & bolt and you can see the location which is about 3” from the factory drawer stop (removed):
Once this was done I set about to line the drawers (I bought both passenger's side and driver's side underseat boxes).
I purchased piece of rubber sheet from a local foam store here in Burbank, CA. It's 1/8" thick and 1 foot of it was plenty of material for both drawers and then some. Here's the rubber and store info:
I cut the rubber in a rectangular piece using a sharp razor knife and a straight edge so it would fit in the drawer (to make it very simple, I didn't yet worry about the ends of the drawer).
Once the rubber sheet was cut to size I removed one screw at a time from the drawer slides, used an awl (hole punch) to make a hole in the rubber sheet by pushing it through the drawer slide holes, and put the nut on top of the rubber sheet.
Here you can see the small silver nuts holding the rubber sheeting in place (this way there's no reason to glue the sheeting in place as it would be very problematic to remove it later once it's glued in place). I also put a small piece of rubber on the drawer so you can see what the material looks like (it's grippy enough to help hold items in place and protect them from the steel drawer):
I cut separate pieces for the ends of the drawer which I double-sided taped in place. I decided to use a small piece of rubber to protect items inside from hitting the lock unit in the front of the drawer:
Here's the drawer with the new drawer stop and rubber drawer liner installed and you can see how far the drawer extends now with the new drawer stop (about 11 1/2 inches versus the stock drawer which extends about 8"). Note that the above pics also show the rubber installed in the drawer:
On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being most challenging, this project is maybe a 2. It will take longer to cut and put in the sheeting than it will to remove the bottom panel, remove the tack-welded stop and drill a hole and put in the bolt and nut.
This is FAR easier than messing with putting in new drawer slides!
Tools & materials
* Phillips screwdriver
* Razor knife
* Straightedge or square
* Rubber sheeting
* Drill with 1 drill bit for 1 hole
* Bolt (short)
* Lock washer
* Double-sided tape (optional)
I did 3" too, as more would put the little slider wheels too close to the ends of the runners. Thanks for the pics.