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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Jeep came with a Rough Country 2.5 lift which is enough lift for me. The shocks are terrible and I want to replace them with the Bilstein or Rancho's. Which is better for on road driving. I dont take the Jeep off road. Thoughts?
 

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The Rancho shocks are better on and off road.

If you can tolerate the Bilsteins, that will invalidate any discussion you and I may have from now on. :rofl: They are quite possibly the most annoying damper I've ever used.

Folks tend to brag about how nicely they eat up the larger events while failing to mention accurately in the same breath they are real handy at determining if a quarter is heads or tails simply by passing a tire over it.

Small event harshness is quite annoying to me.
 

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I've driven and ridden both. 5000x is the nicer shock. Far less jittery than the 5100.
 

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Stick with Rancho. The bilstiens are far to stiff for a TJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the info, I missed out on them for $190 for the set on Amazon so I will wait till they go back down below $200 and then pull the trigger on them.
 
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Before purchasing shocks, remove the front sway bar, or at least disconnect and secure links and bar, then drive without it for a few weeks.

Weigh the jeep front and rear independently.

Measure the length of exposed shock shaft, and the distance between bar pin & eyelet, both measurements with the jeep sitting at ride height. Remove each shock and test to see if they work the way they're supposed to, and measure extended & compressed lengths.

Post measurements and ride impressions.
 

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Before purchasing shocks, remove the front sway bar, or at least disconnect and secure links and bar, then drive without it for a few weeks.

Weigh the jeep front and rear independently.

Measure the length of exposed shock shaft, and the distance between bar pin & eyelet, both measurements with the jeep sitting at ride height. Remove each shock and test to see if they work the way they're supposed to, and measure extended & compressed lengths.

Post measurements and ride impressions.

Not the best suggestion in my opinion to tell someone to drive disconnected for two weeks and then "report back". What does weighing the front and rear axles have to do with shock performance? What if the daily driving conditions require quick lane changes in city traffic?



I currently have Fox 2.0 IPF but have previously had installed Rancho 5000 and Rancho 9500.


The Fox shocks are good for running very quickly on rough mountain roads, but are a little stiff on city potholes. The Rancho 5000 have seemed better because of low cost and smooth ride in all conditions. The 95XX Ranchos really offer no benefit over the 5000's. Who's ever going to jump out to adjust their shocks on the fly?
 

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I wouldn't choose any of those. I'd go with Fox 2.0.
 

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Bilstein is a better shock IMHO, but stiff stiff.
Rancho is a smoother ride, I just wish they would not be that crappy pot recycled metal painted white that rust to crap in a year. ;)
 
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Bilstein is a better shock IMHO, but stiff stiff.
Rancho is a smoother ride, I just wish they would not be that crappy pot recycled metal painted white that rust to crap in a year.
What makes Bilstein the better shock if it is stiffer than the smoother Rancho?
 

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It will last and not rust out plus it's nicer to look at. Stiffness is its only flaw.

I was on the fence before I replaced my shocks, B or R, B or R, B or R but every Rancho looked at looked like they came off an old sea barge after a year.
 

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...What does weighing the front and rear axles have to do with shock performance? What if the daily driving conditions require quick lane changes in city traffic?...
Much of what may be perceived as harshness due to shocks, is instead caused by an overly stiff front swaybar. In just one drive, I became accustomed to the understeer running without a front swaybar creates; front swaybarless driving was not unsafe in dry conditions. Currently I have Bilstein 5160 shocks up front. A Currie front Anti-Rock set to the softest/least leverage/most travel position, mitigates much of the small-event harshness associated with digressive shock valving. If one prefers oversteer or neutral handling characteristics, there are stiffer rear swaybar options.

Vehicle weight has a lot to do with shock & spring selection and shock performance.

Objective decision making begins with understanding the reason current shocks are behaving badly. Are they healthy, appropriately sized, and are the bump stop extensions the right length/height?

I'm not a fan of the Rancho 5000X. Too much oscillation, and then there are the defects.
 

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Bilstein is a better shock IMHO, but stiff stiff.
Rancho is a smoother ride, I just wish they would not be that crappy pot recycled metal painted white that rust to crap in a year. ;)
It's a little annoying, but it's also well known that with the Rancho's, you should either throw a clear coat on them before you install, or use Fluid Film at least once a year on them and just about everything else under your Jeep...
 

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I put a 3" lift on my 2013 JK 2 door Sport. It was an AEV kit with Bilstein 5100 shocks. I love all of it EXCEPT the shocks. In fact I hate them. The JK is a good bit heavier than my 2003 TJ and these shocks ar harsh and can even be painful.

I will be replacing them with something OTHER THAN Bilstein shocks. Others swear by the 5100 but I have *never* liked them. (I tried really hard to, too. I did not want to admit my purchase had been less than what I had wanted.)

I am no fan of the Rancho products, either, so I have to do some research to find something better.

Seriously, though: Don't get the 5100s unless you want to replace all your cracked teeth with crowns.
 

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It's a little annoying, but it's also well known that with the Rancho's, you should either throw a clear coat on them before you install, or use Fluid Film at least once a year on them and just about everything else under your Jeep...
My OME shocks started rusting within a year as well. Now I am running the 5000X shocks and I like the ride on the dirt better than the OME shocks.
 
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