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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've read all sorts of posts singing the praises of body-lifts (BLs) for jeeps and am contemplating whether or not one would be right for my rig.

From what I gather, thou shall not exceed 1.25", though I'd be interested in why this is a "magic" number. I've also learned that a modest BL opens up some opportunities beyond tire clearance. I've read a couple of threads that note that with a BL one can increase ground clearance by "tucking" various components into the increased space between body and frame, (fuel tank skids, etc.). Very cool. My immediate build goal is to construct something that is as capable as possible while running on 31's rubber.

Therefore a BL seems like something to consider.

However, once upon a time I had a Toyota pickup (back in the day when they devoid of proper names), with a 3" BL. I ran 33s for years with it and all was good, but for the mess it made of my shift handles. Because the body moved up 3" relative to the frame and transmision, the handles dropped 3" closer to the floor and required signifigant trimming of the transmision tunnel for clearance to keep it in 2nd gear/reverse.

I vowed never to go this way again.

That being said, I might consider breaking my vow IF someone could suggest a way to eliminate or mitigate the shift lever drop. I'd imagine there might be some modified linkage which might help, or perhaps a more experienced member of this forum could provide some insight?

Thanks
 

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Some people on here will tell you any sort of body lift is bad. Ignore them. As you said using a body can open up more options like tummy tuck and a gas tank tuck. And thing over 1.25" and you start causing transfer case linkage issues, trans link issues having to relocate your fan shroud. But if you us a MML (Motor Motor Mount Lift) with a body lift then you dont have to mess with the fan shroud and it helps correct drive line issues.

And another note on why you dont go bigger on a body lift is it just looks really dumb!

As you can see from my sig I have a 1.25" body and a 1" motor and I have never had issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some people on here will tell you any sort of body lift is bad. Ignore them. As you said using a body can open up more options like tummy tuck and a gas tank tuck. And thing over 1.25" and you start causing transfer case linkage issues, trans link issues having to relocate your fan shroud. But if you us a MML (Motor Motor Mount Lift) with a body lift then you dont have to mess with the fan shroud and it helps correct drive line issues.

And another note on why you dont go bigger on a body lift is it just looks really dumb!

As you can see from my sig I have a 1.25" body and a 1" motor and I have never had issues.
Oh yeah...It's all comming back to me now. I recall a VERY frustrating experience, having to drop the whole rediator, extend the fuel filler hoses...yeah it sucked alright.

So I'm guessing that by raising the drive train up (with the body) it will virtually cancel the effect the BL has on the shifters relative to the floor? If so then, then I wonder why the motor mount shims included witht the BL kit?
 

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Correct. Do a 1" body lift, high clearance t-case skid of your choice, and address the transfer case linkage with the Novak cable setup. Properly address the exhaust hanger @ the transmission mount bracket and the rear t-case output and you'll be a very, very happy camper. Both of my shifters feel better than they did from the factory, the 1" body lift is virtually invisible, and I have an extra 4.5" at the belly.
 

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I went with the 1" daystar bl and JKS 1" mml. I liked the daystar kit because it replaced your entire mount and was not just a puck on top of your stock mount. I did them both at the same time so I didnt have any radiator shroud or transfer case linkage problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Correct. Do a 1" body lift, high clearance t-case skid of your choice, and address the transfer case linkage with the Novak cable setup. Properly address the exhaust hanger @ the transmission mount bracket and the rear t-case output and you'll be a very, very happy camper. Both of my shifters feel better than they did from the factory, the 1" body lift is virtually invisible, and I have an extra 4.5" at the belly.
Any suggestions as to which brands/parts are best?
 

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In my personal opinion, it's REAL hard to beat the plain-Jane stupid-simple high quality low cost 1" body lift from Performance Accessories.

To me, spending more to replace the rubber body mounts just doesn't make sense since the OE rubber body mounts typically outlast our Jeeps. I helped a friend do a frame-up total restoration of his 1973 CJ5 Jeep and once we got the tub off, we both noticed how the rubber body mounts still looked nearly as good as the day they were installed.
 

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Nothing wrong with the factory rubber mounts, lots wrong with poly though. I have the Savvy AL body lift with the factory rubber and couldnt be happier.
 

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Nothing wrong with the factory rubber mounts, lots wrong with poly though. I have the Savvy AL body lift with the factory rubber and couldnt be happier.
Two common issues with poly mounts which is why OE automotive manufacturers don't use polyurethane mounts... it tends to squeak and it definitely passes vibrations more readily into the passenger compartment.
 

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1.25" BL is about perfect for a little added clearance for tires or tub clearance for TT and MML.... I have the Rough Country 1.25" BL and a UCF extra clearance skid.... the BL made it all the difference for me for tires on full stuff and for the TT. and you can't really tell it's there...

 

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kylekae said:
Does a 1 bl add a noticeable amount of over all height
Ehhhh, you can tell its there if you look for it, compared to stock height
 

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Does a 1 bl add a noticeable amount of over all height
1" plus whatever your bigger tires add..my wifes has a 3" and to me looks great..floorboards don't get hot at all without carpet..repositioning the radiator and notching out for the shifter is not a big job and the driveline stayed stock,thus no mods to them which adds to longevity and keeps it smooth
 

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This Thread is about 6 months old now, but i'm sure there are some people like me that peruse these things to the death...so I wanted to bring this back from the dead and add that I don't think anyone has mentioned the other implications of a tummy tuck...if that's the route you're going. In order to achieve the high clearance Tcase skid, you will need a Slip Yoke Elim+Extended drive shaft. The slip yoke Elim is a pretty simple purchase, but the extended drive shaft is custom made to the measurements you send to the manufacturer (such as Tom Woods).

Just a heads up for anyone looking into gaining some ground clearance with a BL as opposed to a Suspension lift.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow it's great to see there's still some interest in this thread. I had wrote it off for dead. Your right, I have read that the tummy tuck can be quite involved. That being said, it seems like a sensible modification in that it raises ground clearance without increasing the height of the center of gravity. These guys did a great job of helping me confirm my decision to go forward with the BL + MML. I'm not really looking for a bunch more overall height right now (running a fresh set of 31" BFG/ATs), rather trying to build a base upon which to keep as many options open as possible.
 

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To me, spending more to replace the rubber body mounts just doesn't make sense since the OE rubber body mounts typically outlast our Jeeps.
My rubber body mounts lasted a mere 6 years underneath my '03 Rubicon. I upgraded to urethane and later to the Daystar BL.

You really can't see my Body Lift on the Jeep. Plus, I was able to get rid of the Transfer Case drop brackets.
 
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