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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched tons but keep getting mixed answers on this question: when people say they are adding a "body lift" does that mean the lift from frame to body or is it in addition to the stock bushings as well? So would a 2" lift really be 2" or more like 2.75"? Hope it doesn't sound like too stupid a question but I haven't had a straight answer yet. Thanks!
 

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It will be 2". The old ones go in the garbage. May I plz suggest doing a lift the right way though. Do a suspension lift with no more than 1" body lift
 

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It will be 2". The old ones go in the garbage. May I plz suggest doing a lift the right way though. Do a suspension lift with no more than 1" body lift
X2 I've seen a 2" body lift go through the tub
 

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there are 2 types of body lifts, the good ones that replace the whole mount and the pucks that just sit on the old mounts. daystar and prothane are the good ones but they are only 1".
 

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OP, There is no "right" way. Do what works for you and accomplishes
the desired effect.
I wanted to accomodate the 31" tires and wheels I already had from a prior XJ. I do not do extreme 4 wheeling, just mountain trails that a conventional sedan probably couldn't traverse.

I went with a 2" body lift two years ago and probably 7 thousand miles in that two years. I have had absolutly no problems because of the lift, and the tires clear with plenty of room to spare.

I advocate for body lifts for the following reasons:
1)-Inexpensive
2)- Simple- No SYE or other suspension modification.
3)- No transfer Case Drop and resultant stress on motor mounts.
4)- Only a marginal raise in center of gravity. Weight of frame and drive train stay at stock height + 1/2 of tire size increase.

Some Jeepers go with suspension lifts because of the type of 4 wheeling they do. They need greater articulation in order to crawl over rocks and other obsticals. Do your homework so that you can choose what is right for you. What type of 'wheelin is most common in New Hampshire? What type do you plan on doing?

For me the body lift works well. For a hundred bucks, It consisted of 2" pucks that sit on top of the stock body mounts and moved the tub up 2 more inches off the frame. Came with the necessary bolts and brackets to drop the radiator plus 2 square boxes to support the grill panel rubbers. I did have to grind away a small portion of the floor so that the shifter would go into reverse. You may have to grind away a small portion of the floor with a TC drop also.

I might add, that I was lucky enough to find a rust free tub & frame as a complete driveable vehicle. I think that the Jeepers that have problems with body lifts perhaps install them on tubs with rusty body brackets.

Opinions are like (o)s. We all have one.

My $00.02. Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
May I plz suggest doing a lift the right way though. Do a suspension lift with no more than 1" body lift
Thank you for the quick reply. I've got a set now that are fiber reinforced composite plastic. I think they are made by Daystar and are 1.25" in height. I didn't plan on going any higher with a BL.

In addition I've got a set of Rough Country RC0401 1.25" Boomerang Lift Shackles. That gives me 2.5" right there. In addition, I have have all new OEM springs hanging on the wall (the current ones are flat) and am not sure what to do from here on out.

My goal is to fit a set of 33's I have but haven't installed them yet. I'm getting them mounted and balanced this week. I'm not sure if the increased lift from the OEM springs is enough to give me clearance with the above mentioned mods. Would I have to go with a minimum 2-4" suspension lift?

I see there are kits out there...I've already got stainless braided brake lines that are good for a 4" lift.

Do I just need new springs and new shocks? Is a YSE required at 4"? And a dropped pitman arm?

I want to keep this as low-key as possible for now just to fit the 33's. My wife is giving me so much heat for putting so much loot into this Jeep it's crazy. I'm sure I'm not the first husband that can't stop working on their Jeep but I must say I've got to turn the volume down on spending for a while. At $7k now it's practically a brand new 89' YJ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I went with a 2" body lift two years ago and probably 7 thousand miles in that two years. I have had absolutly no problems because of the lift, and the tires clear with plenty of room to spare.

I advocate for body lifts for the following reasons:
1)-Inexpensive
2)- Simple- No SYE or other suspension modification.
3)- No transfer Case Drop and resultant stress on motor mounts.
4)- Only a marginal raise in center of gravity. Weight of frame and drive train stay at stock height + 1/2 of tire size increase.
I have a friend with a 2" body lift and he has zero problems. I think it comes down to two things: 1.) personal preference--some people think it looks goofy, and 2.) safety--some people have rusty tubs and mounting points. Also raising the center of gravity too high without letting the suspension do the work can be potentially dangerous. I'd never think about going to a 3" BL. Not sure why they even sell them.


What type of 'wheelin is most common in New Hampshire? What type do you plan on doing?
In New Hampshire (and Vermont) the types of 'wheelin I do is slow and steady up mountain trails that used to be probably logging roads back in the day. We've modified them a lot. One is Mt. Cushman in VT. It's a blast. Not a lot of mud where we go and almost no rocks. Mostly 2k 3k tall mountains with incredible views at the top. It's like hiking, only better. I'm American--why walk when you can drive?

I might add, that I was lucky enough to find a rust free tub & frame as a complete driveable vehicle. I think that the Jeepers that have problems with body lifts perhaps install them on tubs with rusty body brackets.
Me too. My tub and frame mounting points are rust free. I'll have no issues when I put the Daystars no.

Opinions are like (o)s. We all have one.
I love Clint Eastwood lines ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there are 2 types of body lifts, the good ones that replace the whole mount and the pucks that just sit on the old mounts. daystar and prothane are the good ones but they are only 1".
Awesome, that's exactly what I wanted to hear (the two different types). No wonder why I was getting mixed feedback. Some people must have been talking about pucks only while others with pucks and OEM mounts. Thanks very much.

To be honest, I've got them installed right now with the OEM body mounts on and then the pucks resting on top of that. I have a very solid tub and frame, however, I was really confused with the directions. I must of read them half a dozen times but I could almost swear they said to mount them exactly the way I just described. That's why I started this thread because I'm really starting to second-guess the directions. It just doesn't seem logical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I HAD a body lift go through the tub!!!! 3" body lift. Sold that pos faster than I could blink
That is freaky. I see rust as a cancer. Whenever I see it I cut it out and then weld in nice new metal. Sometimes though that's much easier said than done. Some of us don't all have the tools, the loot, the space or any combination of the three. Sometimes selling it is the best option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lol, tell us this after you put them on. Ty for making me smile so early in morning
Anytime! ;) I've got the go ahead for a real lift now (real for me anyway). Looks like I'm going for a Rubicon Express 4" Standard Kit lift. I'll still keep the Daystars though around the garage and put the stock rubber ones on. I have a brand new set. With my 1.25" shackles I'll probably have to shell out more loot to get a YSE (or new driveshaft, or both).

This gets expensive fast. Wish there was a cheaper way to get 4" of lift without having to do a PITA SOA job. I don't mind doing work but sometimes I just want something to bolt on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wish there was a cheaper way to get 4" of lift without having to do a PITA SOA job. I don't mind doing work but sometimes I just want something to bolt on.
And if I did do a SOA I would swap in new axles. I've heard Ford 9" rear ends work well and also if you can find an old scrapyard with a decent set of axles from an old Wagoneer those would work too. Our Favorite Jeep Axle Swaps - Jp Magazine
 

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Stiles 17, I don't drink, smoke, chase women, do drugs or gamble. I don't have an airplane, motorcycle, boat or a horse.
I have done all and had all of the above before I got married. I promise you they are all EXPENSIVE.

When my wife mentions the money I spend on the Jeep, I remind her of the above. She hands me the Quadratec catalog.

I tried the same thing with a 2016 JK Rubicon. Didn't work. Oh well.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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And if I did do a SOA I would swap in new axles. I've heard Ford 9" rear ends work well and also if you can find an old scrapyard with a decent set of axles from an old Wagoneer those would work too. Our Favorite Jeep Axle Swaps - Jp Magazine
4" rc lift runs about 500 bux. I have no soa. Different axles, sye, not that any of those are bad things to have by any means but you can get everything to just "bolt on" for a reasonable price and I run 33's and have done some serious articulation and never got my tires to rub
 
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