Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ight so saving up for body lift first before i do a susp lift and i heard jks has a great 1.25in kit. What else do i need to do to get everything right when i do the body lift? Are there other brands out there that are better? What all is good to do along with the body lift? Any input is welcome thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
Ight so saving up for body lift first before i do a susp lift and i heard jks has a great 1.25in kit. What else do i need to do to get everything right when i do the body lift? Are there other brands out there that are better? What all is good to do along with the body lift? Any input is welcome thanks!

Well there is not much technical about a body lift. The main components either add a rigid piece to 11 body mount or replace them alltogether depending on the brand. I have the Zone 1.25" BL and I found it very complete with detailed instructions. It includes the transfer case drop bracket, radiator brackets, steering brackets, etc.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do all kits cone with a transfer case drop bracket? Would just like to lift body for future tummy tuck and clearance fir tires
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
My JKS 1.25" came with a t-case drop bracket, but I didn't use it since I installed a MML along with the body lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,547 Posts
My JKS 1.25" came with a t-case drop bracket, but I didn't use it since I installed a MML along with the body lift.
X2. ADD a 1" motor lift to the 1.25" body lift. I have the JKS 1.25" body and Zone 1" motor. Adding motor lift makes it so you dont have to mess with the transfer case, dont have to mess with the fan shroud, and it helps with drive line angles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
Do all kits cone with a transfer case drop bracket? Would just like to lift body for future tummy tuck and clearance fir tires
If you plan on a future tuck then you don't want the drop bracket, add a motor mount lift as other have stated instead. I have the JKS 1.25 setup and brown dog motor mounts with a 1in lift waiting to go into my rig. I plan on tummy tucking it in the spring as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
The combination of 1.25" JKS BL and 1" Budget MML is best installed togather, since it therefore eliminates the need for a TC linkage drop bracket or any relocation of the radiator fan shroud, or installing a transfer case drop kit under the TC cross member. The significant downside is that getting those two spacers under the engine mounts is a frustrating four hours of effort - that saves you about three hours by not having to mess with the radiator shroud or TC linkage.

That sets the Jeep up to run up to 32" tires. If you don't have a Rubicon model, your next step would be a SYE and a new driveshaft. After that is done, you are ready for a 2-3" suspension lift, either springs or "Budget Boost" spring spacers, plus longer shocks.

Meanwhile the BL also allows these changes:
- Larger (up to 33") spare tire on tailgate stock tire carrier.
- Tummy Tucker for center clearance, especially on an LJ.
- Raising fuel tank 1" for better departure angle.

Depending on springs and bumpstops and other details, the small 2-3" suspension lift plus the BL and MML allows you to run 33" to 35" tires.

But by the time you have 33" to 35" tires, you better be thinking about new control arms, swaybar discos, upgraded brakes, a CV rear driveshaft, axle upgrades, etc.

JEEP stands for "Just Empty Every Pocket".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
The combination of 1.25" JKS BL and 1" Budget MML is best installed togather, since it therefore eliminates the need for a TC linkage drop bracket or any relocation of the radiator fan shroud, or installing a transfer case drop kit under the TC cross member. The significant downside is that getting those two spacers under the engine mounts is a frustrating four hours of effort - that saves you about three hours by not having to mess with the radiator shroud or TC linkage.

That sets the Jeep up to run up to 32" tires. If you don't have a Rubicon model, your next step would be a SYE and a new driveshaft. After that is done, you are ready for a 2-3" suspension lift, either springs or "Budget Boost" spring spacers, plus longer shocks.

Meanwhile the BL also allows these changes:
- Larger (up to 33") spare tire on tailgate stock tire carrier.
- Tummy Tucker for center clearance, especially on an LJ.
- Raising fuel tank 1" for better departure angle.

Depending on springs and bumpstops and other details, the small 2-3" suspension lift plus the BL and MML allows you to run 33" to 35" tires.

But by the time you have 33" to 35" tires, you better be thinking about new control arms, swaybar discos, upgraded brakes, a CV rear driveshaft, axle upgrades, etc.

JEEP stands for "Just Empty Every Pocket".

THe next step after a body lift and motor mount lift is more than likely not an SYE and drive shaft. The MML help with driveline angles and may even keep the owner from needing an SYE/Driveshaft with a tummy tuck. According to UCF, even with their ultra clearance skid you don't need an SYE/Driveshaft (granted this can vary a little Jeep to Jeep). Combining a tummy tuck and a suspension lift on the other hand will result in the need for an SYE and driveshaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,547 Posts
The combination of 1.25" JKS BL and 1" Budget MML is best installed togather, since it therefore eliminates the need for a TC linkage drop bracket or any relocation of the radiator fan shroud, or installing a transfer case drop kit under the TC cross member. The significant downside is that getting those two spacers under the engine mounts is a frustrating four hours of effort - that saves you about three hours by not having to mess with the radiator shroud or TC linkage.

That sets the Jeep up to run up to 32" tires. If you don't have a Rubicon model, your next step would be a SYE and a new driveshaft. After that is done, you are ready for a 2-3" suspension lift, either springs or "Budget Boost" spring spacers, plus longer shocks.

Meanwhile the BL also allows these changes:
- Larger (up to 33") spare tire on tailgate stock tire carrier.
- Tummy Tucker for center clearance, especially on an LJ.
- Raising fuel tank 1" for better departure angle.

Depending on springs and bumpstops and other details, the small 2-3" suspension lift plus the BL and MML allows you to run 33" to 35" tires.

But by the time you have 33" to 35" tires, you better be thinking about new control arms, swaybar discos, upgraded brakes, a CV rear driveshaft, axle upgrades, etc.

JEEP stands for "Just Empty Every Pocket".
^^^^^ This! X2!

But installing the motor lift didnt take that long for me. The hardest part was on the driver side (this is year specific) I had to remove the motor mount bracket from the engine block (3 bolts) in order to remove the 6" or 7" bolt that passes through the motor mount bushing due to the A/C being in the way and when re-installed you have to put the bolt back in facing the opposite direction.
I dont know why the factory didnt do this originally... :nonono: :banghead:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ight thanks for yalls help gonna go with a JKS body lift and a motor mount lift. Do u add a spacer to motor mounts or are there one piece lifts? After that ill go get gas tank lift and tt. And i have a lj rubicon so i will just need a new driveshaft when i lift it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,547 Posts
jww3rd said:
Ight thanks for yalls help gonna go with a JKS body lift and a motor mount lift. Do u add a spacer to motor mounts or are there one piece lifts? After that ill go get gas tank lift and tt. And i have a lj rubicon so i will just need a new driveshaft when i lift it
For the motor lift. They sell both. 1" spacers are cheaper and are just as good as new mounts. Just depends how much you wanna spend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
Well sorry guys but I am going to have to disagree with many of you on the MML, SYE, TC drop bracket, etc.

I have a 2+" supension lift, 1.25" BL and 1" MML. I did not install my TC drop bracket at first but this made switching to 4Lo and keeping it there impossible. Afterwards I installed the TC drop bracket and now it shifts like butter. So no, installing a MML with the BL does not guarantee that the TC drop bracket will not be needed.

Furthermore I still get vibes, even after the MML. So I will still be installing an SYE and some point even though I have installed a MML. So the MML will also not guarantee that and SYE or alternatively TC drop is not needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,547 Posts
Rolf said:
Well sorry guys but I am going to have to disagree with many of you on the MML, SYE, TC drop bracket, etc.

I have a 2+" supension lift, 1.25" BL and 1" MML. I did not install my TC drop bracket at first but this made switching to 4Lo and keeping it there impossible. Afterwards I installed the TC drop bracket and now it shifts like butter. So no, installing a MML with the BL does not guarantee that the TC drop bracket will not be needed.

Furthermore I still get vibes, even after the MML. So I will still be installing an SYE and some point even though I have installed a MML. So the MML will also not guarantee that and SYE or alternatively TC drop is not needed.
All Jeeps are different. My uncle installed a 2"BB and got vibs and had to do a TC drop. My Jeep came with a 2" BB no vibs. Some have said they have a 3"lift no vibs. You had to install the TC bracket with the body and motor lift when (I know my JKS body lift directions said this) if you install a motor lift you don't need to do the TC bracket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Found one piece motor mount lift from RE anybody heard anything about them good or bad? Also saw just spacers from JKS. And finally brown dog one piece mounts anyone of those good or better than other? Or any other brands yall like? Dont care about cost would rather save up and do it right the first time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
Well sorry guys but I am going to have to disagree with many of you on the MML, SYE, TC drop bracket, etc.

I have a 2+" supension lift, 1.25" BL and 1" MML. I did not install my TC drop bracket at first but this made switching to 4Lo and keeping it there impossible. Afterwards I installed the TC drop bracket and now it shifts like butter. So no, installing a MML with the BL does not guarantee that the TC drop bracket will not be needed.

Furthermore I still get vibes, even after the MML. So I will still be installing an SYE and some point even though I have installed a MML. So the MML will also not guarantee that and SYE or alternatively TC drop is not needed.
Still dont need a TC drop bracket for the 4Lo problem, a Novak cable conversion for the transfer case shifter is actually a much better idea. In the OP's situation especially since he plans to do a tummy tuck as well.

Found one piece motor mount lift from RE anybody heard anything about them good or bad? Also saw just spacers from JKS. And finally brown dog one piece mounts anyone of those good or better than other? Or any other brands yall like? Dont care about cost would rather save up and do it right the first time
I went brown dog, I like the fully integrated mount and lift. If you go that route go with the rubber bushings, the polys transfer a lot more vibrations to the body and cabin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
homebrwd said:
Still dont need a TC drop bracket for the 4Lo problem, a Novak cable conversion for the transfer case shifter is actually a much better idea. In the OP's situation especially since he plans to do a tummy tuck as well.

I went brown dog, I like the fully integrated mount and lift. If you go that route go with the rubber bushings, the polys transfer a lot more vibrations to the body and cabin.
I agree with you on the rubber motor mounts.

As for the Novak yes it is a better solution as it does not mount to the tub. There are two aspects to the Nvak though. 1. It costs a couple of bucks. 2. Judging by how mine shifts now the stock setup with a drop brackets works surprisingly well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ight so JKS body lift, brown dog one inch rubber motor lifts and either a novak cable or lowerin bracket for trans shifter. Then tt and gas tank lift/skid
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
Rolf said:
I agree with you on the rubber motor mounts.

As for the Novak yes it is a better solution as it does not mount to the tub. There are two aspects to the Nvak though. 1. It costs a couple of bucks. 2. Judging by how mine shifts now the stock setup with a drop brackets works surprisingly well.
The Novak system does mount to the tub. It uses the same four bolts on the transmission tunnel as the stock setup. The beauty of the Novak system is he can install it with the body lift and he won't have to do anything when he gets the tummy tuck. No adjusting, nothing.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top