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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I discovered that the previous owner apparently abandoned an attempt at removing this body mount bolt after breaking the bolt off. Now it's just spinning in the tub.





I know the other body mounts can be gotten to by cutting a hole from above into the floor of the tub. What's the best way to get to this one?

The options I see are:

Cut a hole in the rear corner panel. Repair mount, patch/weld up the corner panel.
Remove rear corner panel entirely. Repair mount and replace entire panel.

Possible option of removing the plastic wheel well liner and accessing from the wheel well (not sure if that's an option, but it looks like it might be.)

I know this is a common issue. What's the preferred solution?

I have a welder (Hobart 210) -- I am not that great at using it yet.

If I tackle this I'm probably just going to take the opportunity to install a Daystar 1" BL kit, effectively replacing all of the worn out body mounts. That way I just have one long session of cutting holes in my Jeep and welding them back up.

Thanks!
 

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Body lift does NOT replace body mounts.... you can do em at the same time if you want tho

It could be done cleaner than this but....

https://youtu.be/8UtRQtsraRc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Body lift does NOT replace body mounts.... you can do em at the same time if you want tho

It could be done cleaner than this but....

https://youtu.be/8UtRQtsraRc

Poor choice of words on my part. The plan would be to do them both at one time and just go through the suffering once.

That answers my question--definitely possible to access from cutting a hole from the wheel-well side. That isn't terrible. Certainly beats cutting a hole in the rear corner.

Thanks for the link!
 

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You can and should go through the wheel well i have done it using a dremel and a cutting wheel.
 

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I think I'd use a hole saw.... then plug it with a plastic body plug
 

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Body lift does NOT replace body mounts.... you can do em at the same time if you want tho

It could be done cleaner than this but....

https://youtu.be/8UtRQtsraRc
Not entirely accurate. While it is true that many "puck style" body lifts do reuse the original body bushing, the Daystar 1" Body Lift actually replaces the original body mount bushing and spacer with a solid, 1" taller urethane spacer. You get a 1" body lift and a new body bushing all in one.
 

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Well that would be one to absolutely NOT buy then....

Poly does a horrible job of insulating the body from the frame
 

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Well that would be one to absolutely NOT buy then....

Poly does a horrible job of insulating the body from the frame
Very true that poly is a poor insulator of NVH, particularly when used on a vibration source (exactly why I don't run poly motor or trans mounts). With that being said, poly does a much better job of handling increased loads and leverage of a taller bushing. Running pucks (polymer or aluminum) coupled with a rubber mount has proven to be ill-fated, especially with taller lifts (2" and up). I'll take a safer, albeit marginally less isolated poly mount body lift over a puck style any day of the week! I will say that so far I have been very happy with my Daystar 1" BL. It is comfortable and I have not noted any increased NVH from the Daystar kit.
 

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I had my break in the same position.

I went in from the front side of the rear cross member.

I found it was easiest way to access as there is only one layer to metal to cut through.

Dremel with cutoff wheel. Cut three side to create a " flap ".

Bend flap UP to gain access, then bend it down after repair.

Chances are you will find what I found in mine ..... a rust eaten square nut plate with the corners eaten away allowing it to spin internally.

Once I got it cleaned out, I coated the insides with " Chassis Saver " to encapsulate and stop the rust. Replace the nut place with a large thick fender washer, locking washer and nut. Once tightened, I coated the entire thing with even more " Chassis Saver ".

I figure it's should be good for at least 15 years or more.

Bend up the flap, and close it off as you see fit.

I did a series of tack weld to prevent too much heat from burning the paint inside and finished it off.
 
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