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Just checked my rear end because i had a vibration around 60 mph following a gear swap. turns out, both my rear wheel bearings are shot!

I could wiggle the tires 1/16-1/8" and watch the rotor move with them! how is it possible that they are bad all of a sudden after doing a gear swap? Can just pulling the axles cause it?

And of course, its impossible to find a quality timken wheel bearing. the duralast ones are complete junk, brand new and it was rough! I'm returning that one tomorrow. and the one good bearing i bought, i forgot to put on the axle retainer, so I had to press off the new one, and in the process, its now loose too!:banghead::pullinghair:


Is it the 37's that chew through wheel bearings, or could I have done something wrong putting the axle back in? maybe they were bad before i did the gear swap and didnt realize it? im just having a hard time understanding how they can both be so loose at the exact same time.:pullinghair::beerdrinking:
 

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you can get timken bearings on amazon. I believe they are set 10. Northridge has them also.


how long did they last?

the retainer nuts still tight?
 

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Are you sure it isn't the axle shafts? Those are more likely to go fairly quickly on 37s.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
would it be obvious if the axle is bad? how would i tell?
 

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Use a dial indicator and measure run out on the rotor.
 

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would it be obvious if the axle is bad? how would i tell?
When mine went, a friend driving behind me had noticed my wheels wobbling. The shop got it on a lift and it was pretty apparent immediately. The rears with big tires tend to bend at the flange. Mine only lasted 5k on 37s, with maybe one or two very mild wheeling trips.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i just measured the in-out play with my dial indicator, after i just replaced the passenger side with a new timken bearing and seal (original retainer) and have .010 play. the runout of the rotor is fine, within .002. could it just be excess rust that i didnt get out from the brake assembly under the retainer?
 
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