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GO STEELERS !
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short I got a rock wedged between my tire and coil making short work of my ABS sensor (completely cut in two) and damaging my brake line. The banjo fitting was tweaked which caused it to leak slightly. I re-tightened the banjo bolt and it stopped the leak, but the line is pretty beat up, so I'm replacing.

The question is: The line is the driver side front. When I install the new line and bleeding the brakes can I just do that one since its the left front (which is normally the last line you bleed) or do I have the bleed the entire system.
 

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Long story short I got a rock wedged between my tire and coil making short work of my ABS sensor (completely cut in two) and damaging my brake line. The banjo fitting was tweaked which caused it to leak slightly. I re-tightened the banjo bolt and it stopped the leak, but the line is pretty beat up, so I'm replacing.

The question is: The line is the driver side front. When I install the new line and bleeding the brakes can I just do that one since its the left front (which is normally the last line you bleed) or do I have the bleed the entire system.
Just bleed that line you will be fine, it will gravity bleed pretty fast too.
 

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so you would bleed the furthest first then end up at the driver side front?
In the op case just that one front caliper will need to be bleed, unless he ran the MC dry "doesn't sound like he did". If lets say you had to replace the master cylinder or ran it dry you first bench bleed the master cylinder, then start bleeding at the longest line and work back to the shortest. So, passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front. If you replace only one brake hose or a caliper, you should only have to bleed that particular corner of the vehicle.
 

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Bleed the whole system. In fact if you have not changed brake fluid in it yet this would be a good time to flush the system. It really does not take that long.
 
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