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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone tried to relocate the brake booster to free up that space for a second battery or some other kind of accessory?

can it be done?
 

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You have to consider that the brake pedal's control rod passes directly through the firewall into the brake booster. Moving the booster would be nigh-impossible without some serious mods to the brake pedal linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok so... whats the best way to do dual batteries?
 

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Buy the dual battery bracket or the stock location. Look it up. They are out there for optimas that I have seen
 

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buy one good battery and take care of it.
X2, there is no need for two batteries for the 99% of us who think we do. I would just go for a single good quality heavy-duty battery like the Diehard Platinum P-4 or 3478-DT and stop worrying about it. With all my winching over the years, several times without even being able to run the engine while I was winching, I have never a problem with my single battery. I didn't even need a jump start after the times I winched myself off the trail when I couldn't start the engine for various reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for all the input.
I'm wanting the second battery more for camping, so i can run an inverter or the stereo without having to worry about killing the starting battery. not just for winching or my on board air system.
anyone know off hand how many CCA it actually takes to start the jeep. Im pondering a heavy duty battery in the stock location and a smaller one capable of staring it under the brake booster (if i can find something that will fit) I am also wanting the dual setup in case I get something on board that may require a 24v setup.

If I'm gonna do it, I want to make sure I'm only doing it once. ;)
 

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What do you think you may ever add that requires 24v? And from someone who thinks electric/electronic circuits, do you realize how complex the switching will be to allow two batteries to back each other up as well as connecting up in series to provide 24v?

Personally, I would carry a jump-start battery if you're that concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What do you think you may ever add that requires 24v?
my thought was possibly a small welder

And from someone who thinks electric/electronic circuits, do you realize how complex the switching will be to allow two batteries to back each other up as well as connecting up in series to provide 24v?
lol sure don't, I'm very mechanical but not very electrical

Personally, I would carry a jump-start battery if you're that concerned.
I'm starting to believe you... but to be honest I am probably going to try it out and figure out your right after spending WAY too much time and money. (Its how I roll)
 

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I'm starting to believe you... but to be honest I am probably going to try it out and figure out your right after spending WAY too much time and money. (Its how I roll)
trust jerry on this one. the mess of parallel & series wiring, diodes, resistors and such to support two batteries switching between 12V and 24V, while isolating & not wrecking your 12V components, would make is proposition a futile waste of time for zero benefit. the voltage switching isn't the hard part...it's the 1000+amps that makes things interesting. military trucks do have a dual 12V & 24V system, but they have some serious components involved & a lot more underhood room to shove it.

if you want an onboard welder...then buy an onboard welder...they do sell them. i've even seen a nice write-up for converting a cheapo HF wire-feed to run onboard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for all the info, looks like I will defiantly NOT be doing it that way.
 

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When you get your battery, go for a deep cycle like the Optima yellow top. They have a much better endurance rate for running accessories with the engine off and not leaving you stranded
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was looking at this optima:

Part Number: D31A (8051-160)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Grp. D31A; Cold Crank Amps 900; Crank Amps 1125; Res. Capacity 155; Ampere Hour 75; Top Terminal; L-12 13/16 in.; W-6.5 in.; H-9 3/8 in.;

It a bit bigger than the one recommended so I need to look and see if I can make it fit
 

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When you get your battery, go for a deep cycle like the Optima yellow top. They have a much better endurance rate for running accessories with the engine off and not leaving you stranded
8 years ago they were ok, but now optimas are junk.

I was looking at this optima:
if you want a battery that's going last, has the best warranty in the business and will take any abuse you can throw at it, then get a Sears Diehard Platinum. The Group 34 - Platinum P4 is the stock size, and it has 100 CCA's more than the nearest optima. If you really want a hoss, then with a few mods you can shoehorn a Group 65 Platinum P2 in there.
 
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