Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had some free time on my hand and wanted to do some work on my TJ, and thought I would do something about my braking issues. Going down moderate hills (even in the city), i notice that my brakes great extremely hot and at times has started to fade.

Upon inspecting my front rotors, I didnt notice signs of a worn pad or rotor; however, there was some glassing on the rotor.

I have yet to inspect the rear drums; but at 75k miles, I didn't think there wouldnt be much issue of wear on the shoes. And the e-Brake seems to hold strong, so I am hoping the the "automatic" brake adjusters is still functioning correctly.

But since I am gonna dig into the front brakes i might as well replace the pads and possibly upgrade the rotors to slotted. Do want to go the cross-drilled, as I have had previous issues of stress cracks at the holes on other vehicles.

I need help / recommendations on Replacement Pads, Replacement Rotors and Rear Shoes that would hold up to the heat, without compromising braking issues when cold. ( once used semi-metalics on a cold morning drive, didn't get enough stoping time/distance while still cold and plowed into 7 cars at a stop light).

Any advise would be greatly appreciate!!

G-Whiz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,136 Posts
I used to get brake fade, then I switched to Black Magic pads - no more fade :). Best pads I've run thus far. I am also using centric rotors, no issues.
 

·
Knows a couple things...
Joined
·
49,416 Posts
Just get the Black Magic Pads and Centric Premium rotors from Blaine at http://www.blackmagicbrakes.com/. Blaine's Black Magic pads are unsurpassed for Jeeps, he has forgotten more about Jeep brakes than any of us have ever known. Of all the brake pads I have had on my Jeeps the past 18 years, and I have run a half-dozen different types, Black Magic's are head & shoulders above the best in braking performance. I wouldn't waste my $$$ on slotted, drilled, or dimpled rotors for a Jeep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay.... just ordered a set of pads and rotors!

And just read up on the "Break-In" process; how critical is it to follow it to the letter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
It sounds like changing your driving style will be far more benefit than changing the pads. So many people are quick to try and sell you parts that their friends sell. If you have brake fade in the city, then you are driving incorrectly. If you are on a big hill, you need to downshift and let the engine slow you down. There are very few cases where you should ever have your foot on the brake for more than 30 seconds, if you do, you are in the wrong gear. I will say that race style pads are far more resistant to fade, but even the cheapest, crappiest pads shouldn't fade with city driving, ever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
It sounds like changing your driving style will be far more benefit than changing the pads. So many people are quick to try and sell you parts that their friends sell. If you have brake fade in the city, then you are driving incorrectly. If you are on a big hill, you need to downshift and let the engine slow you down. There are very few cases where you should ever have your foot on the brake for more than 30 seconds, if you do, you are in the wrong gear. I will say that race style pads are far more resistant to fade, but even the cheapest, crappiest pads shouldn't fade with city driving, ever.
He didn't ask for your personal opinion on his driving style. If you don't have anything productive to contribute, that's relevant, then don't post ignorant statements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,163 Posts
He didn't ask for your personal opinion on his driving style. If you don't have anything productive to contribute, that's relevant, then don't post ignorant statements.
That was very sound advice to his question if he has a stick. His profile says a 2006 V6 so not sure. I thought it was a post informing about engine braking. Not berating at all. Chill man
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
That was very sound advice to his question if he has a stick. His profile says a 2006 V6 so not sure. I thought it was a post informing about engine braking. Not berating at all. Chill man
Actually, It has nothing to do with his question. He's asking about pads and rotors, not how to drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,163 Posts
Actually, It has nothing to do with his question. He asking about pads and rotors, not how to drive.
He's saying his brakes fade down hill. I stand by the guy giving outside the box advice on engine braking as trying to help. If I asked for tire advice
Because I lose traction going up hill off road and you recommended I get a locker it would be unrelated but good advice. Engine braking is awesome and if I were new to it his advice might help or would help way more than pads for brakes heating up going down hills.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
He didn't ask for your personal opinion on his driving style. If you don't have anything productive to contribute, that's relevant, then don't post ignorant statements.
Your post was a huge contribution to this thread and really helps the OP.:mooning: My post warns of unsafe driving procedures. Some people don't know that you should engine brake on long descents. How is that ignorant? It was the first post in this thread to try and save the OP's brakes without telling him to buy something that won't fix the issue. Once I saw a giant $$$$ brand new class A motorhome getting all new brakes with only 2000 miles on it. The owner didn't know he was supposed to push the engine brake button and warped all the drums and almost got in an accident.
That was very sound advice to his question if he has a stick.
Stick or auto, you should still engine brake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,136 Posts
Stick or auto, you should still engine brake.
I wheel on terrain that has long descents when getting from one trail to another. While I do have a 32RH auto, I still down shift and use my engine while going down a long descent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It sounds like changing your driving style will be far more benefit than changing the pads.
I am well aware of utilizing engine braking and use it when necessary; but when you are driving down a 50mph downhill winding road, where you have elder folks driving -40mph, constantly shifting the 'automatic' tranny between "D" and "2nd" and/or the high rev by keeping it in "2nd", puts more wear on the tranny. (my other option is to be a turtle by keeping in "2nd" and following mom & pops down the hill It's easier and cheaper to replace brake pads then it is to replace a tranny. But I do appreciate the feedback.

I believe upgrading the front braking system, in conjunction with making sure the rear brakes are properly adjusted, will compensate for the additional metal weight (front bumper, rear bumper/tire carrier, skids, body armor, congo cage, tuffy storage, etc) added to the vehicle.

But I do appreciate the feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
In the process of searching for rear end growl. Serviced rear end, still had growl. Took a look at rear brakes and they were literally inoperable. Adjusting cables broke, multiply broken springs. E brake worked fine. Still have growl, but brakes work great. Take a look at those rear drum brakes.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top