If the pads are worn replace the pads, don't fill the master till AFTER you put the pads in. When you recompress the caliper all that fluid goes back up to the master.
Jack up, remove wheel, put one lug nut back on, remove the two caliper bolts and lift caliper off. Take a 'C' clamp and use it to squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Unsnap the old pads and stick the new ones on. As for rotors, I never turn them, at $30 it's easier to just replace them at the same time. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line, use a piece of coathanger or something if you need to hang it. The lug keeps the rotor from landing on your foot or a more sensitive area if you are sitting cross legged when you remove the caliper... when you do the rotor, put a nice thin coat of anti-seize on the hubs and wheel studs.
Jack up, remove wheel, put one lug nut back on, remove the two caliper bolts and lift caliper off. Take a 'C' clamp and use it to squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Unsnap the old pads and stick the new ones on. As for rotors, I never turn them, at $30 it's easier to just replace them at the same time. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line, use a piece of coathanger or something if you need to hang it. The lug keeps the rotor from landing on your foot or a more sensitive area if you are sitting cross legged when you remove the caliper... when you do the rotor, put a nice thin coat of anti-seize on the hubs and wheel studs.
