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Sorry for the long read but I am not sure where else to look. I have been having issues with my front brakes ever since I replaced the old ones. 2006 TJ stock disc brake D30 with 115k. No issues before replacement other than brakes not being great.

The old pads were very worn so I replaced them with a new set. Should be a simple replacement and go on with life. After installing the new pads, I had to run some errands. After about 10 miles i started smelling brakes, when I came to a stop I noticed the front passenger tire was smoking. Got back home and looked over everything (all looked normal except for the pass. front being extremely hot and smoking), took the pads off and reinstalled. Went driving, same thing, pass side was consistently 20-40 degrees hotter. Decided to replace the rotors, same issue with heat and smoke after install. Tried swapping pads/rotors side to side just to see if it was one side or bad pads or rotors. Issue was always on the passenger side.

The jeep is my second vehicle so it doesnt get out a whole lot. Looked online and some forums and it looked like if sitting for a while the soft brake lines can corrode cause flow issues. Replaced both driver and pass soft line and the issue was still there.

After this i decided to get new calipers to see if maybe the caliper was the issue. Installed some PowerStop calipers. During install I noticed when I removed the banjo bolt on the driver side a steady stream of fluid came out, on the pass side it just barely dripped out. So after install bleed the brakes and drove about 35 miles. No issues, temperature between driver and pass were only 10-15 but the brake pedal was still a little mushy.

Started off vacuum bleeding the brakes today to hopefully fix the mushy pedal. Driver side took 5 mins and no issues. Started the pass side, and when I would have someone pump and hold the brakes I would just get a bunch of tiny bubbles and little to no actual brake fluid. did this a handful of times and same thing. accidentally forgot to tighten the bleeder screw the next time during the pump and hold and got sprayed with a bunch of brake fluid. So now I know that fluid is up to the caliper, went to do another couple pump and hold and the tiny bubbles were back and no actual fluid.

Now im looking at possibly the proportioning block and maybe its clogged or something. Any one have this issue or some thoughts on what the issue might be. Thanks and sorry again for having to read all this.
 

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Might want to search how to bleed brakes on YouTube. You may be doing it wrong.

One thing I noticed is you said you bleed the drivers side before the passenger. You want to do the brakes furthest from the master cylinder first and work your way closer.
 

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So now I know that fluid is up to the caliper, went to do another couple pump and hold and the tiny bubbles were back and no actual fluid.

Now im looking at possibly the proportioning block and maybe its clogged or something.
First, I would recommend that you verify that the brake reservoir is adequately filled.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Might want to search how to bleed brakes on YouTube. You may be doing it wrong.

One thing I noticed is you said you bleed the drivers side before the passenger. You want to do the brakes furthest from the master cylinder first and work your way closer.
After i finished the driver side I realized that. Should I drain the driver side, do pass side then redo driver? Or is there a better way?

tangofox007
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdahlman View Post
So now I know that fluid is up to the caliper, went to do another couple pump and hold and the tiny bubbles were back and no actual fluid.

Now im looking at possibly the proportioning block and maybe its clogged or something.
First, I would recommend that you verify that the brake reservoir is adequately filled.

Reservoir was full the entire time
 

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Have you looked closely at the brake caliper. It sounds as if that caliper is not releasing properly. The last time I rotated my tires, I noted the rear pads were getting thin and all the brake calipers were heavily encrusted. I decided that because of the mileage, I would go ahead and replace all the replaceable parts. Pads, rotors, calipers and hoses.

I was waiting for an opportunity to borrow some help from a buddy when the right front caliper froze on a Jeep run. I was not driving it, but a friend was as I was driving the Chief (both Jeeps participated). Fortunately it froze open so there was actually no braking on the right front. My friend driving is a former mechanic and knew what the issue was and told me about it in the parking lot at the end of the run.

I was thinking of limping it home and the waiting to get an opportunity to work on it. As I was standing in the the parking lot, I was looking at the shop of a good mechanic that both my friend and I knew and trusted. We simply dropped the TJ off there and I let him do the brake installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I decided that because of the mileage, I would go ahead and replace all the replaceable parts. Pads, rotors, calipers and hoses.
I figured it might of been mileage along with the fact that I dont drive it very often. The pads, rotors, calipers, and soft line have all been replaced with brand new parts. The only other items in the brake system that havent been changed are the master cylinder, proportioning valve and the hard lines.
 

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If your pads are dragging, you’re piston probably extended out too far when the pads were off and now they’re not retracting. Pull calipers off, remove pads, and clean around the pistons with denatured alcohol, push pistons in and reassemble. Check to make sure seals are not damaged.

Bleed master cylinder, the proportioning valve if it can be bled, the bleed calipers starting with the longest run first, working to the shortest.
 

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If your pads are dragging, you’re piston probably extended out too far when the pads were off and now they’re not retracting. Pull calipers off, remove pads, and clean around the pistons with denatured alcohol, push pistons in and reassemble. Check to make sure seals are not damaged.

Bleed master cylinder, the proportioning valve if it can be bled, the bleed calipers starting with the longest run first, working to the shortest.
Calipers were never compressed without pads. Brand new calipers arrived, immediately installed the pads, rotors and then bleed the system. Was getting ready to go out and rebleed the system.
 

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If your pads are dragging, you’re piston probably extended out too far when the pads were off and now they’re not retracting.
How, exactly, does that make the slightest bit of sense? What law of physics would cause the pistons on fresh calipers to extend?

For sure, a caliper with even a slightly extended piston cannot be installed with new pads.
 

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How, exactly, does that make the slightest bit of sense? What law of physics would cause the pistons on fresh calipers to extend?

For sure, a caliper with even a slightly extended piston cannot be installed with new pads.
exactly. With brand new calipers, pads and rotors there should be only a little space between the pads and rotors when the brake is not pushed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
update

Rebleeding the system (from farthest to nearest):
Rear pass: all good
Rear driver: all good
Front pass: same issue withe the bunch of tiny bubbles. And yes the reservoir is full
 

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Take a good look at the hose between the frame and caliper, what condition are they in.
 

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My guess is you have a couple things going on.

Very first when you compressed the old caliper Pistons you likely pushed crud back up into the lines.
(This is why it is very important to flush First, before you touch anything else, which many do not do).

You put in new pads and after driving, the crud that was pushed back into the lines now has caused the piston seals to hang up and stick.

Now after all that you replaced calipers and soft lines, I would assume you got all old fluid out.
The tiny bubbles sounds like a leak, maybe banjo bolt? Did you use new copper washers?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Take a good look at the hose between the frame and caliper, what condition are they in.
Brand new flex line.

Very first when you compressed the old caliper Pistons you likely pushed crud back up into the lines.
(This is why it is very important to flush First, before you touch anything else, which many do not do).
I did flush the system. Removed all the fluid from the front by using a vacuum bleeder (there was a good deal of crap in there). Unscrewed the hard line from both the proportioning valve and the point on the frame where it connects to the flex line. Sucked the rest of the brake fluid out and sprayed some brake clean thru it (seemed to go thru with no issues). Sucked any excess brake clean out and reinstalled.

Currently rebleeding the front pass side (point of issues since it put new pads and rotors on).

Couple things im going to try:
1. swap bleeder screws from front driver over to the pass just to see if thats the problem
2. remove the proportional valve and clean it out/ check seals
 

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UPDATE

Swapped driver bleeder screw onto pass caliper. the threads seemed to have a tighter engagement on the pass caliper than the original bleeder that came on the pass caliper, so my of just got a bad bleeder. started bleeding it and it is now bleeding like normal so I think that solved the issue. Gonna run and pick up a new bleeder and some crush washers for the driver side and bleed it.

After the driver side gets bleed ill drive around and see how it feels.
 

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If it starts to get hot again just replace the calipers I replaced both of mine when I installed new pads. One was bad I know because it pulled some when braking all good after replacing pads and calipers. Then I replaced the rear brake cylinders now it stops better than it ever did
 
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