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Brake Lock Differentials (BLD) Explained

85562 Views 82 Replies 37 Participants Last post by  WillB
Why would I need BLD?
In order to understand the true benefit of the BLD system (or any locking axle differentials) it is important to understand first what an open differential is.

An open differential is what most passenger vehicles are equipped with (excluding four wheel drive and all wheel drive vehicles). An open differential is beneficial because it allows the outside wheels to turn faster than the inside wheels when negotiating a turn. The vehicle would have a very difficult time turning without the ability for opposite tires on the axles to turn at different speeds.

The open differential is perfect for dry, level, on road conditions. In these conditions all the driven wheels are receiving equal amounts of torque. So in this circumstance when the Wrangler is in 2H, both rear wheels are receiving 50% of the available input torque. Under the same road conditions, a Wrangler in 4H or 4L will send 50% to the front and the other 50% to the rear wheels. Life is good; the Jeep has no problems moving forward.

The problem with the open differential is that torque is always split 50/50. Let’s imagine the road conditions change in such a way that one tire no longer has traction. This could happen if the tire is not in contact with ground or if it’s on a very slippery surface such as snow, ice or mud. The slipping wheel in this situation takes very little torque to spin it, let’s say 15 ft-lb. This means the other wheel, which does have traction, can also only get 15 ft-lb of torque. In many cases this would not be enough torque to keep the vehicle moving. Even in 4H or 4L a situation could arise where one front wheel and one rear wheel are slipping thus effectively stopping the open differential vehicle in its tracks.

The way to overcome this is to “lock” the differentials together, effectively making them on unit, so that the slipping wheel receives the same amount of torque as the wheel with traction. The Rubicon comes standard with selectable lockers that do exactly that! However, they’re only available in 4L mode unless you’ve done some hacking to enable them in other modes. As mentioned previously, while the axles are locked, steering becomes much more difficult and “binding” can occur causing large amounts of stress on the driveline.

If only there were a way to overcome this open differential drawback without the fuss of having to manually lock and unlock your axles but yet still have the dry, on road benefits…

What is the purpose of BLD?

The purpose of BLD is to simulate true locking differentials, described above, in order to provide additional torque to the wheels with traction. A Wrangler equipped with BLD will navigate many obstacles that a similar vehicle with true locking differentials will.

How does BLD work?

The Wrangler has speed sensors on each wheel and therefore it is able to know when one wheel is spinning faster than its opposite. When it senses one wheel spinning and the other not, it automatically applies the brake to the spinning wheel. This means that more torque is now required in order to get the “braked” wheel to spin. Ah! Remember, in an open differential the torque is split 50/50 and now that the braked wheel is receiving more torque so is the wheel with traction! In many cases the extra torque is enough to keep or get the vehicle moving. The BLD feature does not care how fast the wheels are turning, nor does it try to limit how fast they’re turning, so long as they are turning at the same speed.

This sounds good so far, but of course, there is always a negative side too. The negative is that the input torque must be double the amount required because of the brake being applied. However, this is usually not a problem, especially in 4L where plenty of torque is generated.

How do I use BLD?

The BLD feature is an automatic process and is active when in 4H or 4L modes. It is part of the Electronic Stability Control (ESC) / Traction Control systems.

To effectively use the BLD system the driver should slowly and gradually apply more throttle when they enter a situation where a wheel is slipping. This will allow the sensors to determine the need to apply the brake to the slipping wheels while at the same time generating the necessary power and torque to send to the wheels with traction.

Which models have it?

All Jeep Wranglers (JKs) have BLD. This includes: Sport, Sport S, Willys, Sahara, and Rubicon.

Are there any other things to consider?

Can using these brakes to overcome obstacles cause them to overheat? Jeep engineers thought of this and implemented a checking system that monitors the temperature of the brakes, if the temps exceed the set threshold then the BLD system is automatically disabled until the temp drops below the threshold.

According to a Jeep Engineer: “Since BLD is only trying to keep both wheels on a driven axle turning at the same speed and not control overall wheel speed, the actual energy input to the brakes is relatively low. In all of the testing done at Moab, I have never seen brake temperatures reach a point where the thermal model turned off traction control.”

I hope this proves useful for those that are new to Jeep and/or new to off-roading. As always, I tried to be as accurate as possible. Please correct me if I made an error!
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Good video showing the BLD in action as well as true lockers.

The black JK has been upgraded with front and rear ARB Air Lockers.

The white JK has open diffs with just the BLD system.

http://youtu.be/LqcIhrWs0qA

You can see the advantage of having true lockers but you can also see that the BLD system is pretty capable as well.
Another thing worth considering is the time it takes for the various functions to do their thing.

Talking offroad scenarios, not necessarily snow/ice, but more like rocky climbs

When lockers are locked, there is no,ie zero, delay for the force (torque) to get to the traction. You read the trail, engage lockers just before you need them and you have no momentum loss caused by torque transfer times when various wheels are losing/ finding traction. Until the traction available won't support the torque required to keep moving.

The other systems, bld, limited slip, the gerotors on the WK(not bad) all take a fraction of a second, or longer, to do their thing. On steep climbs this time delay results in loss of momentum up to and including rolling back. Rolling backwards on an ugly climb gets uglier going the other way in various forms including trashed undercarriage on up to loss of control/roll over. Driver technique obviously can minimize this, but it's difficult to really eliminate it...

All of these systems, including actual lockers, have characteristics that really make none of them the perfect solution for all situations, but I'm usually scared before the tires start losing traction with the lockers engaged.

Good discussion...
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Yes, I know I am bringing back a necro-thread. But I believe there is valuable information here for those who are completely new to the Jeep world.

And I have a question.

From reading through the thread and watching videos on Youtube, it would appear that the BLD is completely automatic and engages after a few seconds of wheel slippage, is that correct?

I went on a trail last weekend with the local club and one of the big hills was kinda blown out by the time I got to it in my Sport (no lockers). It took me 5 attempts to get up it and I think I now know why.

I was in 4 Low the whole time, the first attempt was slow and I backed off when a wheel started slipping. The final try was accomplished in 4 Low, 1st gear, revving the piss out of the engine (which I didnt really like).

Afterwards, I was told by one guy that I could have tapped the brakes to engage the BLD, another guy said I could have rode the brakes to slow the spinning wheel, and yet another guy said I could have pulled the parking brake to stop the spinning wheels.

However, according to this thread and the videos, I should have maintained the low and cautious approach not letting off the throttle and the BLD would have taken care of itself.

Is this correct?
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Yes, I know I am bringing back a necro-thread. But I believe there is valuable information here for those who are completely new to the Jeep world.

And I have a question.

From reading through the thread and watching videos on Youtube, it would appear that the BLD is completely automatic and engages after a few seconds of wheel slippage, is that correct?

I went on a trail last weekend with the local club and one of the big hills was kinda blown out by the time I got to it in my Sport (no lockers). It took me 5 attempts to get up it and I think I now know why.

I was in 4 Low the whole time, the first attempt was slow and I backed off when a wheel started slipping. The final try was accomplished in 4 Low, 1st gear, revving the piss out of the engine (which I didnt really like).

Afterwards, I was told by one guy that I could have tapped the brakes to engage the BLD, another guy said I could have rode the brakes to slow the spinning wheel, and yet another guy said I could have pulled the parking brake to stop the spinning wheels.

However, according to this thread and the videos, I should have maintained the low and cautious approach not letting off the throttle and the BLD would have taken care of itself.

Is this correct?


That is correct. Once a wheel starts spinning, gradually increase throttle and the BLD will "sense" the spinning wheel and automatically brake it thus sending torque across the axle to the other wheel.

The key is having finesse with the throttle... don't usually need to redline it but just give it enough to overcome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also remember 59bug.... While I too do not like feeling as though I am revving the piss out of my Jeep - you have the rev limiter to protect the Jeep if/when the danger zone is breached.

GM13- Great thread :thumb:

Anecdotal story, 12" of snow this morning Pre-Plow trip in to the orafice on OE KM's w/37,000 miles on them in my RubiHR.... didn't even bother with 4wd.
No slips, no sticks NaDa problemo.

My Sahara had the LSD and it worked fine as well BUT honestly differences are/were imperceptible. The BLD works great.

Edit: LSD - BLD - Traction Control / IMO are well designed and work very well.
I do wish if I had a wish that my current Rubicon was like my '05 Rubicon.
I was able to have LSD too.
Rubicon,

Yes, It is true that the rev limiter will prevent an overrev (in the case of floorboarding the gas pedal, not downshifting or going down a hill).

But there are some engines that sound like they are "comfortable" at redline (like almost every Vw I have owned in the last 10 years). But this one just didn't.

Maybe I just didnt like redlining it because it still has less than 2,000 miles.

But hey, if it failed, that's what warranty was for, right? LOL.
Rubicon,

Yes, It is true that the rev limiter will prevent an overrev (in the case of floorboarding the gas pedal, not downshifting or going down a hill).

But there are some engines that sound like they are "comfortable" at redline (like almost every Vw I have owned in the last 10 years). But this one just didn't.

Maybe I just didnt like redlining it because it still has less than 2,000 miles.

But hey, if it failed, that's what warranty was for, right? LOL.
I Agree. I hate revving a motor that isn't really designed for that kind of duty especially when they are New or Old.
Revving a Race Motor with forged/hardened Everything and a 9,500 rpm redline and open headers - that's a different story.
RubiconSS; Anecdotal story said:
Are you suggesting BLD works in 2H?





.
Are you suggesting BLD works in 2H?





.
Misspoke (at work while typing) BLD works but so does the Traction Control (which in my case this morning in 2wd was working well)

Traction Control System (TCS)
This system monitors the amount of wheel spin of each of
the driven wheels. If wheel spin is detected, brake
pressure is applied to the slipping wheel(s) to provide
enhanced acceleration and stability. A feature of the TCS
system functions similar to a limited slip differential and
controls the wheel spin across a driven axle. If one wheel
on a driven axle is spinning faster than the other, the
system will apply the brake of the spinning wheel. This
will allow more engine torque to be applied to the wheel
that is not spinning. This feature remains active even if
TCS and ESP are in either the “Partial Off” or “Full Off”
modes. Refer to “ESP (Electronic Stability Program)” in
this section.

While on the subject of appreciated engineering:

Electronic Roll Mitigation (ERM)
This system anticipates the potential for wheel lift by
monitoring the driver’s steering wheel input and the
speed of the vehicle. When ERM determines that the rate
of change of the steering wheel angle and vehicle’s speed
are sufficient to potentially cause wheel lift, it applies the
appropriate brake and may reduce engine power to
lessen the chance that wheel lift will occur. ERM will only
intervene during very severe or evasive driving maneuvers.

Electronic Stability Program (ESP)
This system enhances directional control and stability of
the vehicle under various driving conditions. The ESP
corrects for over/under steering of the vehicle by applying
the brake of the appropriate wheel to assist in
counteracting the over/under steer condition. Engine
power may also be reduced to help the vehicle maintain
the desired path.
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I think this BLD is a load of "sh$t". I use to have an Hummer H1 and they have Brake throttle modulation, once a tire started to spin you apply the brakes and it would LOCK all 4 wheels.

In my jeep in an off camber situaltion in my yard KO2's on wet lawn left from and right rear spinning and the jeep was stuck BLD did nothing!!!

NOW the kicker, same spot wifes honda pilot with all seasons tires, climbed the hill with no issues AND i didn't have to lock the differentials. (yes the pilot has them)
All I know is: My Jeep gets me where I need to go and where I want to go.
There are many good systems out there that can do one maybe more things but I never shy away from going anywhere because I have a Jeep.

I can't say that about other vehicles, awd's etc.
I think this BLD is a load of "sh$t". I use to have an Hummer H1 and they have Brake throttle modulation, once a tire started to spin you apply the brakes and it would LOCK all 4 wheels.

In my jeep in an off camber situaltion in my yard KO2's on wet lawn left from and right rear spinning and the jeep was stuck BLD did nothing!!!

NOW the kicker, same spot wifes honda pilot with all seasons tires, climbed the hill with no issues AND i didn't have to lock the differentials. (yes the pilot has them)
Like this?
https://youtu.be/zVnspBtA1HU
I think this BLD is a load of "sh$t". I use to have an Hummer H1 and they have Brake throttle modulation, once a tire started to spin you apply the brakes and it would LOCK all 4 wheels.

In my jeep in an off camber situaltion in my yard KO2's on wet lawn left from and right rear spinning and the jeep was stuck BLD did nothing!!!

NOW the kicker, same spot wifes honda pilot with all seasons tires, climbed the hill with no issues AND i didn't have to lock the differentials. (yes the pilot has them)


If you're not in 4H or 4L or if the wheel speed sensors are not working than BLD will not work.

I have seen unlocked Jeeps do some pretty crazy stuff because I was in the driver's seat. :)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Misspoke (at work while typing) BLD works but so does the Traction Control (which in my case this morning in 2wd was working well)

Traction Control System (TCS)
This system monitors the amount of wheel spin of each of
the driven wheels. If wheel spin is detected, brake
pressure is applied to the slipping wheel(s) to provide
enhanced acceleration and stability. A feature of the TCS
system functions similar to a limited slip differential and
controls the wheel spin across a driven axle. If one wheel
on a driven axle is spinning faster than the other, the
system will apply the brake of the spinning wheel. This
will allow more engine torque to be applied to the wheel
that is not spinning. This feature remains active even if
TCS and ESP are in either the “Partial Off” or “Full Off”
modes. Refer to “ESP (Electronic Stability Program)” in
this section.

While on the subject of appreciated engineering:

Electronic Roll Mitigation (ERM)
This system anticipates the potential for wheel lift by
monitoring the driver’s steering wheel input and the
speed of the vehicle. When ERM determines that the rate
of change of the steering wheel angle and vehicle’s speed
are sufficient to potentially cause wheel lift, it applies the
appropriate brake and may reduce engine power to
lessen the chance that wheel lift will occur. ERM will only
intervene during very severe or evasive driving maneuvers.

Electronic Stability Program (ESP)
This system enhances directional control and stability of
the vehicle under various driving conditions. The ESP
corrects for over/under steering of the vehicle by applying
the brake of the appropriate wheel to assist in
counteracting the over/under steer condition. Engine
power may also be reduced to help the vehicle maintain
the desired path.
Thanks SS, finally a chart that makes sense
Careful throttle control is needed to get the BLD to work proper.
Mashing the pedal doesn't work.
Thanks SS, finally a chart that makes sense
I believe that's from the owners manual.
I believe that's from the owners manual.
Not sure. Hopefully but I never got one😀
Hmm lots of wheel spin. Maybe I'll try again and give it time to engage. All I know the pilot did it with drama
I think this BLD is a load of "sh$t". I use to have an Hummer H1 and they have Brake throttle modulation, once a tire started to spin you apply the brakes and it would LOCK all 4 wheels.

In my jeep in an off camber situaltion in my yard KO2's on wet lawn left from and right rear spinning and the jeep was stuck BLD did nothing!!!

NOW the kicker, same spot wifes honda pilot with all seasons tires, climbed the hill with no issues AND i didn't have to lock the differentials. (yes the pilot has them)
I really think you just need to learn how to interact with the BLD system. Steady gas does the trick, and you don't have smash the throttle either, it works great.
Fast forward from 1:41min to about 2:30min or so. That will be my Jeep BLD in action, off camber, over a slick boulder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-do2o_-NxCs&t=95s
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Great Video, Whew gotta admit I have a different idea of Fun though :)
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