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Brake Lock Differentials (BLD) Explained

85562 Views 82 Replies 37 Participants Last post by  WillB
Why would I need BLD?
In order to understand the true benefit of the BLD system (or any locking axle differentials) it is important to understand first what an open differential is.

An open differential is what most passenger vehicles are equipped with (excluding four wheel drive and all wheel drive vehicles). An open differential is beneficial because it allows the outside wheels to turn faster than the inside wheels when negotiating a turn. The vehicle would have a very difficult time turning without the ability for opposite tires on the axles to turn at different speeds.

The open differential is perfect for dry, level, on road conditions. In these conditions all the driven wheels are receiving equal amounts of torque. So in this circumstance when the Wrangler is in 2H, both rear wheels are receiving 50% of the available input torque. Under the same road conditions, a Wrangler in 4H or 4L will send 50% to the front and the other 50% to the rear wheels. Life is good; the Jeep has no problems moving forward.

The problem with the open differential is that torque is always split 50/50. Let’s imagine the road conditions change in such a way that one tire no longer has traction. This could happen if the tire is not in contact with ground or if it’s on a very slippery surface such as snow, ice or mud. The slipping wheel in this situation takes very little torque to spin it, let’s say 15 ft-lb. This means the other wheel, which does have traction, can also only get 15 ft-lb of torque. In many cases this would not be enough torque to keep the vehicle moving. Even in 4H or 4L a situation could arise where one front wheel and one rear wheel are slipping thus effectively stopping the open differential vehicle in its tracks.

The way to overcome this is to “lock” the differentials together, effectively making them on unit, so that the slipping wheel receives the same amount of torque as the wheel with traction. The Rubicon comes standard with selectable lockers that do exactly that! However, they’re only available in 4L mode unless you’ve done some hacking to enable them in other modes. As mentioned previously, while the axles are locked, steering becomes much more difficult and “binding” can occur causing large amounts of stress on the driveline.

If only there were a way to overcome this open differential drawback without the fuss of having to manually lock and unlock your axles but yet still have the dry, on road benefits…

What is the purpose of BLD?

The purpose of BLD is to simulate true locking differentials, described above, in order to provide additional torque to the wheels with traction. A Wrangler equipped with BLD will navigate many obstacles that a similar vehicle with true locking differentials will.

How does BLD work?

The Wrangler has speed sensors on each wheel and therefore it is able to know when one wheel is spinning faster than its opposite. When it senses one wheel spinning and the other not, it automatically applies the brake to the spinning wheel. This means that more torque is now required in order to get the “braked” wheel to spin. Ah! Remember, in an open differential the torque is split 50/50 and now that the braked wheel is receiving more torque so is the wheel with traction! In many cases the extra torque is enough to keep or get the vehicle moving. The BLD feature does not care how fast the wheels are turning, nor does it try to limit how fast they’re turning, so long as they are turning at the same speed.

This sounds good so far, but of course, there is always a negative side too. The negative is that the input torque must be double the amount required because of the brake being applied. However, this is usually not a problem, especially in 4L where plenty of torque is generated.

How do I use BLD?

The BLD feature is an automatic process and is active when in 4H or 4L modes. It is part of the Electronic Stability Control (ESC) / Traction Control systems.

To effectively use the BLD system the driver should slowly and gradually apply more throttle when they enter a situation where a wheel is slipping. This will allow the sensors to determine the need to apply the brake to the slipping wheels while at the same time generating the necessary power and torque to send to the wheels with traction.

Which models have it?

All Jeep Wranglers (JKs) have BLD. This includes: Sport, Sport S, Willys, Sahara, and Rubicon.

Are there any other things to consider?

Can using these brakes to overcome obstacles cause them to overheat? Jeep engineers thought of this and implemented a checking system that monitors the temperature of the brakes, if the temps exceed the set threshold then the BLD system is automatically disabled until the temp drops below the threshold.

According to a Jeep Engineer: “Since BLD is only trying to keep both wheels on a driven axle turning at the same speed and not control overall wheel speed, the actual energy input to the brakes is relatively low. In all of the testing done at Moab, I have never seen brake temperatures reach a point where the thermal model turned off traction control.”

I hope this proves useful for those that are new to Jeep and/or new to off-roading. As always, I tried to be as accurate as possible. Please correct me if I made an error!
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I really think you just need to learn how to interact with the BLD system. Steady gas does the trick, and you don't have smash the throttle either, it works great.

Fast forward from 1:41min to about 2:30min or so. That will be my Jeep BLD in action, off camber, over a slick boulder.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-do2o_-NxCs&t=95s


I'd like to see a Honda Pilot try to navigate that terrain. ;)


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I'd like to see a Honda Pilot try to navigate that terrain. ;)


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True That. Made my palms sweat :)
Ok.... tried it again and can't believe it works. I was just letting off way too soon. Problem is I'm in snow and after a few rotations the tires burry themselves so I was getting out of the gas too early.
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Ok.... tried it again and can't believe it works. I was just letting off way too soon. Problem is I'm in snow and after a few rotations the tires burry themselves so I was getting out of the gas too early.
Awesome. :action-smiley:
Ok.... tried it again and can't believe it works. I was just letting off way too soon. Problem is I'm in snow and after a few rotations the tires burry themselves so I was getting out of the gas too early.
Not uncommon. There are several of these newer technologies that depend on counter-intuitive behavior in addition to the BLD(example: ABS brakes)
Do all wrangler models have BSD? Even the base Sport model, no LSD, no lockers, just 'command-trac'? Several dealerships have told me that only models with the trac-lok or true-lok have it. They have also said that the Renegades and Cherokee Trailhawks have it, but not the base model Wranglers.

I have a 94 Cherokee that I plow my driveway with that I am looking to replace. It's been a fantastic vehicle for 23 years. I was thinking about getting a new Wrangler and putting a plow on. The BLD would seem to be a great addition to the open differentials and maybe help during the few times I got stuck with the Cherokee.
Do all wrangler models have BSD? Even the base Sport model, no LSD, no lockers, just 'command-trac'? Several dealerships have told me that only models with the trac-lok or true-lok have it. They have also said that the Renegades and Cherokee Trailhawks have it, but not the base model Wranglers.

I have a 94 Cherokee that I plow my driveway with that I am looking to replace. It's been a fantastic vehicle for 23 years. I was thinking about getting a new Wrangler and putting a plow on. The BLD would seem to be a great addition to the open differentials and maybe help during the few times I got stuck with the Cherokee.
All have it. It's part of the traction control.
Thanks for the quick response! I see you have a Sport. Have you seen the BLD in action?
Thanks for the quick response! I see you have a Sport. Have you seen the BLD in action?


The only version that does not have it is the 2 wheel drive model but hardly any dealers sell those.

A base sport with 4x4 definitely had BLD. It works pretty darn well too. I've seen it used to crawl over all sorts of obstacles because I was in the driver's seat of my sport. :)


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The only version that does not have it is the 2 wheel drive model but hardly any dealers sell those.

A base sport with 4x4 definitely had BLD. It works pretty darn well too. I've seen it used to crawl over all sorts of obstacles because I was in the driver's seat of my sport. :)


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Same here BLD works very well!!!!
I'm in the process of picking gears and diffs for my 2014 JKU automatic. Currently has 3.21 Dana 30/44. I am by no means a hard core off-roader. We got a few good spots here in central Florida that mostly consist of mud and hills we hit 3-4 times a year.

I also tow a 3500# camper 5-6 times a year.

Currently on 32.5" tires with a leveling kit, in a few years I will probably go to something around 34" with no lift, it already has flat fenders.

I'm pretty set so far on 4.56 gears but the more I read about diffs the more I'm getting unsure on what to get! I have on board air already and was thinking of just doing a air-zip Yukon in the front and leaving the rear one stock. But now I'm considering doing trutracs front and rear,lol, I'm just having a hard time deciding what would be best VS overkill. I can't really afford to do locking diffs front and rear. Any advice is appreciated!
4
I'm in the process of picking gears and diffs for my 2014 JKU automatic. Currently has 3.21 Dana 30/44. I am by no means a hard core off-roader. We got a few good spots here in central Florida that mostly consist of mud and hills we hit 3-4 times a year.

I also tow a 3500# camper 5-6 times a year.

Currently on 32.5" tires with a leveling kit, in a few years I will probably go to something around 34" with no lift, it already has flat fenders.

I'm pretty set so far on 4.56 gears but the more I read about diffs the more I'm getting unsure on what to get! I have on board air already and was thinking of just doing a air-zip Yukon in the front and leaving the rear one stock. But now I'm considering doing trutracs front and rear,lol, I'm just having a hard time deciding what would be best VS overkill. I can't really afford to do locking diffs front and rear. Any advice is appreciated!
I have 34's KO2 34X10.5 and 4.56 gears. While I was having the gears done,I had an Eaton E locker installed in the back(switched through my sPod) and a trutrac limited slip in the front. The best time to have this done is when they are already in there doing gears(so you don't have to pay twice). I went way up north for a wheeling-fly fishing adventure,and let me say the whole set up worked flawlessly the 4.56 gears are perfect on the highway(very hilly terrain) and fantastic off road...way more capability withe lockers and limited slip,and way more confidence inspiring....oh,and get a winch and recovery gear,it saved my a$$ way out in the middle of nowhere and stuck up to the axles LOL!! They are worth their weight in gold!!!!!!

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Great explanation. I put Truetracs front and back in my jeep. Will the BLD compliment the truetrac operation if one wheel is off the ground?
If for some reason you are having a bit of trouble with a wheel up in the air, just apply a bit of brake and it will transfer the power. Rears are simple, a click or two of the parking brake will do, just remember to take it off when you are done.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMy7az5rPWs

I'm in the process of picking gears and diffs for my 2014 JKU automatic. Currently has 3.21 Dana 30/44. I am by no means a hard core off-roader. We got a few good spots here in central Florida that mostly consist of mud and hills we hit 3-4 times a year.

I also tow a 3500# camper 5-6 times a year.

Currently on 32.5" tires with a leveling kit, in a few years I will probably go to something around 34" with no lift, it already has flat fenders.

I'm pretty set so far on 4.56 gears but the more I read about diffs the more I'm getting unsure on what to get! I have on board air already and was thinking of just doing a air-zip Yukon in the front and leaving the rear one stock. But now I'm considering doing trutracs front and rear,lol, I'm just having a hard time deciding what would be best VS overkill. I can't really afford to do locking diffs front and rear. Any advice is appreciated!
I have TT front & rear, and also tow a 1700-1900# popup in my JK. For my needs (which are pretty much the same as yours) this setup works great. The elimination of the clutch-pack style LSD in the rear and the addition of the TT up front, got me through some 3-4ft drifts after we got 15" of snow. And last time camping, I had to do a turn-around and the surface was wet shredded tree bark from harvesting and what a PITA that was until I went 4hi. And last thing since you should get a ProCal for the 4.56s, heck with 34s go 35s haha

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How does the trutrac compare to the BLD? They seem to be the same when ready the discriptions?
How does the trutrac compare to the BLD? They seem to be the same when ready the discriptions?


Trutrac is an actual mechanical device (gears) that reside in the differential housing that when a wheel loses grip the gears automatically mesh thereby making both wheels on the axle spin at the same speed.

BLD is a computer program that uses sensors to apply the brakes to free spinning wheels thereby making both wheels on the axle spin at the same speed.


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If for some reason you are having a bit of trouble with a wheel up in the air, just apply a bit of brake and it will transfer the power. Rears are simple, a click or two of the parking brake will do, just remember to take it off when you are done.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMy7az5rPWs



I have TT front & rear, and also tow a 1700-1900# popup in my JK. For my needs (which are pretty much the same as yours) this setup works great. The elimination of the clutch-pack style LSD in the rear and the addition of the TT up front, got me through some 3-4ft drifts after we got 15" of snow. And last time camping, I had to do a turn-around and the surface was wet shredded tree bark from harvesting and what a PITA that was until I went 4hi. And last thing since you should get a ProCal for the 4.56s, heck with 34s go 35s haha

Their website says TT is LSD. Is it different than LSD FCA puts in Wranglers, like my Willys Wheeler W?
Their website says TT is LSD. Is it different than LSD FCA puts in Wranglers, like my Willys Wheeler W?
The stock LSD uses clutch packs, that wear out. The Truetrac is a mechanical LSD that uses helical planetary gears. They both act like an open differential until slippage is detected.

https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-70.htm
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Ive got a question about traction control

Ive been doing a lot of muddling and I usually leave the jeep in 4H with traction control off. Does having traction control off help or hurt? Also i usually leave the trans in auto should i be sticking it in second or first manually? Last one- Does BLD really help me in the mud where I’m usually mashing the pedal?
Ive got a question about traction control

Ive been doing a lot of muddling and I usually leave the jeep in 4H with traction control off. Does having traction control off help or hurt? Also i usually leave the trans in auto should i be sticking it in second or first manually? Last one- Does BLD really help me in the mud where I’m usually mashing the pedal?
Me too. So what is different from 'traction control' vs BLD? How else does TC work if it's not BLD? What does switching it off do? When in 4hi and you hold it down for 10 seconds its supposed to switch off the entire ESC.

Switching these off don't disable the BLD?

Are you better off leaving TC enabled if in sand, mud, snow? Switched off, or fully held for 10 secs to fully disable? Even though above it stated even switched off BLD still enabled.

Great topic!
Ive got a question about traction control

Ive been doing a lot of muddling and I usually leave the jeep in 4H with traction control off. Does having traction control off help or hurt? Also i usually leave the trans in auto should i be sticking it in second or first manually? Last one- Does BLD really help me in the mud where I’m usually mashing the pedal?
Me too. So what is different from 'traction control' vs BLD? How else does TC work if it's not BLD? What does switching it off do? When in 4hi and you hold it down for 10 seconds its supposed to switch off the entire ESC.

Switching these off don't disable the BLD?

Are you better off leaving TC enabled if in sand, mud, snow? Switched off, or fully held for 10 secs to fully disable? Even though above it stated even switched off BLD still enabled.

Great topic!
Did you guys read post #1 of this thread? :)
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