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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ahead of myself here and plan on avoiding this BUT on the stock Dana 30/35's if you snap a shaft are the axles still held in (to drive home) or can they walk out on the highway? I'll be doing gears this weekend and will likely learn the answer on my own but 3 days til then to ponder this will drive me nuts. Thanks for the help.
 

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The d35 is a big problem....twist an an axle shaft and there is nothing to keep it in. Many have to do this if they don't have a spare shaft on hand:

 

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For the front dana 30 most times you will just bust a u-joint, which can be fixed on the trail > should the shaft itself bust, remove the inner shaft and put a rag in the tube to keep the oil from running out.. Then you will need to leave the outer stub shaft bolted inplace as it holds the hub together.

Rear axle.. dana 35 shaft will walk on out of the tubes.
 

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For the front dana 30 most times you will just bust a u-joint, which can be fixed on the trail > should the shaft itself bust, remove the inner shaft and put a rag in the tube to keep the oil from running out.. Then you will need to leave the outer stub shaft bolted inplace as it holds the hub together.
Been there done that with the D30....usually when the u joint goes, it takes the shaft ears with it. You have to remove the inner shaft.

You don't want to be removing your shaft for the first time on the trail. Do it at home to become familiar with the task. Plus it gives you a chance to put anti seize on everything. I pulled this shaft on the trail and was up and running again in less than 30 minutes. Be SURE to keep the stub shaft attached or your unit bearing will fall apart. I put a rag filled bag in the axle to keep the fluid in the diff. I made a "special" tool to get it back out. Don't shove the corkscrew in too far or you'll tear up your seal.











 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info. That's what I was afraid of. I love the pic of the branch chained to the side of the car.

What about the axles on an 8.8? Will they walk out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what rear end will retain the axles if they break? can you put a c-clip eliminator kit in a d35 and chromo shafts to eliminate the weaknesses?
 

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On some thinking that the Dana 30 u-joints breaking taking out the axle shafts is actually opposite of what really happens.

The usual order of things is that stress on the u-joint stretches or breaks the 'ear' on the inner or outer OE non-hardened axle shaft. That in turn allows the u-joint to pull free where it then it runs into the yoke and breaks.

If you want to stop breaking axle shaft u-joints which were preceded by failed axle shaft ears, install aftermarket hardened alloy shafts which have hardened/stronger ears that hold the u-joints. That will stop the ears from breaking/stretching which will stop letting go of the u-joints which will stop them from breaking.
 

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If you want to stop breaking axle shaft u-joints which were preceded by failed axle shaft ears, install aftermarket hardened alloy shafts which have hardened/stronger ears that hold the u-joints. That will stop the ears from breaking/stretching which will stop letting go of the u-joints which will stop them from breaking.
Or install axle shafts that don't have u-joints
 

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RCV's FTW!
 

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For the uber-high cost of RCVs, they better not break! Sheesh.

But then I haven't had a busted axle shaft or u-joint since first installing Warn shafts into my first Jeep in 2003, and then Superior Axle shafts into my present Jeep. At 50% of the cost of the RCVs.
 

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I agree... The RCV shafts aren't cheap. After breaking stock then breaking alloy I wished I had went RCV to start and been done. It is a lot more expensive doing RCV shafts as the third set instead of the second.
I've heard nothing but good info about Superior shafts.

On mine the RCV shafts are rated for 40" tires so I'm sure they don't have any trouble with my 35" tires.
 

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I agree... The RCV shafts aren't cheap. After breaking stock then breaking alloy I wished I had went RCV to start and been done. It is a lot more expensive doing RCV shafts as the third set instead of the second. I've heard nothing but good info about Superior shafts. On mine the RCV shafts are rated for 40" tires so I'm sure they don't have any trouble with my 35" tires.
I love how you don't have binding issues with the RCV's. So much happier with them than the u-joint shafts.

I'm just running 35's myself. But very happy with the purchase.
 

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On some thinking that the Dana 30 u-joints breaking taking out the axle shafts is actually opposite of what really happens.

The usual order of things is that stress on the u-joint stretches or breaks the 'ear' on the inner or outer OE non-hardened axle shaft. That in turn allows the u-joint to pull free where it then it runs into the yoke and breaks.
^^^Yep
 

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I love how you don't have binding issues with the RCV's.
Funny, 27 years with three Jeeps (XJ and two TJs) with that front axle with u-joints that I've never noticed the binding issue that RCV owners like to brag their axles don't cause.
 

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On some thinking that the Dana 30 u-joints breaking taking out the axle shafts is actually opposite of what really happens.

The usual order of things is that stress on the u-joint stretches or breaks the 'ear' on the inner or outer OE non-hardened axle shaft. That in turn allows the u-joint to pull free where it then it runs into the yoke and breaks.

If you want to stop breaking axle shaft u-joints which were preceded by failed axle shaft ears, install aftermarket hardened alloy shafts which have hardened/stronger ears that hold the u-joints. That will stop the ears from breaking/stretching which will stop letting go of the u-joints which will stop them from breaking.
I think it's a combination of events....if the C clip comes loose or falls out, the U-joint starts to separate until it binds which in turn stretches the ears (or full lock turning in 4wd), then it all falls apart. For those without front chromo shafts I would also suggest bringing the three extra unit bearing retainer bolts as those will get pretty chewed up to and may be difficult to re-use.

Or install axle shafts that don't have u-joints
Or go with Revolution's chromo's with 1350 U-joints.

Funny, 27 years with three Jeeps (XJ and two TJs) with that front axle with u-joints that I've never noticed the binding issue that RCV owners like to brag their axles don't cause.
or clicking...
 

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I think it's a combination of events....if the C clip comes loose or falls out, the U-joint starts to separate until it binds which in turn stretches the ears (or full lock turning in 4wd), then it all falls apart. For those without front chromo shafts I would also suggest bringing the three extra unit bearing retainer bolts as those will get pretty chewed up to and may be difficult to re-use.
With the root cause of all that being the weaker OE axle shaft ears stretching or breaking and allowing the u-joint to pull free.

That hasn't happened to me since 2003 after simply upgrading to a stronger aftermarket front axle shaft. I even ran the standard size 760x u-joint after that without problem.
 
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