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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

have had my 2000 4.0L with 150k for about a month and temps started to run dangerously high all of a sudden caused because of a crack in the radiator. the rad seems like it has never been replaced, but while i save the money for a new radiator i'm wondering if i can just jb weld it? i know it's sketchy but the crack is very small and right on top of the radiator about 3-4 inches to the left of the rad cap.

thanks
 

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No way no how... not worth the risk of blowing your engine
 

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LOL it's weird though bc im not leaking a huge amount of coolant just steam when it idles.i know it's risky but it's my daily driver and based on how tiny the crack is i think the risk/reward is a fair trade off. also the engine runs hot but not past the red, it just kinda wavers for a bit and then drops to slightly over the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i appreciate the offer but i live all the way on the east coast so shipping would just not be worth it. the price of a new rad is not terrible, i just have no job right now bc of college so money is going to more important issues..
 

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The JB weld will only work until it doesnt.



I know one guy who patched his with some fabric and a jb weld like material. I think it lasted him just a couple of days is all.
 

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When mine split, I used a patch made of a couple tubes of the flexible epoxy for plastic mixed with some short fuzz cut from a nylon ratchet strap. Sand and clean the split and the surrounding area. Slather the epoxy on thick and wide. Let it cure for as long as you can before running the engine. Mine sat for at least 8 hours in the hot sun.

I ran this for a full week of daily driving until the new radiator arrived. The patch area looked fine and likely had plenty of life left in it. But during my daily inspections, I finally noticed all the other little weeping cracks scattered throughout the radiator. The old radiator was still a ticking time bomb until the next weak spot failed. It's surprising how much the radiator expands once fully heated.

The overheating may be another problem in the cooling system and may be the thing that makes the patch or the next weak spot fail sooner rather than later.
 

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The cracked radiator may be because of the overheating issue, not the other way around.
I'd pull the water pump and the heat exchanger in the cab and do a good cleaning before just replacing a radiator.
Unless its rusted or something punctured it radiators don't usually just crack open on their own.
So do a bit of prep work before the radiator replacement to help save yourself a ton more money later down the line.
 

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I was a poor college kid with a Jeep once. As much as I liked jeeps, I had to get rid of it. Got a Corolla until I had a few dollars in my pocket and able to afford the Jeep I wanted

Once the nickle and dimes start, time to part company.
 

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:bop:
LOL it's weird though bc im not leaking a huge amount of coolant just steam when it idles.i know it's risky but it's my daily driver and based on how tiny the crack is i think the risk/reward is a fair trade off. also the engine runs hot but not past the red, it just kinda wavers for a bit and then drops to slightly over the middle.
If you already have your mind made up, then why ask?

It's your money.... gamble a $3000 engine repair against a $120 radiator and let the dice roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks screw, did not think about that. it may also have been caused by the fact that it had little to no coolant left due to a leak in one of the hoses near the bottom, causing it to overheat. i also opened the rad cap and found it covered in muck.

which do you guys think is the most likely culprit? low coolant
old rad?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
:bop:

If you already have your mind made up, then why ask?

It's your money.... gamble a $3000 engine repair against a $120 radiator and let the dice roll.
its not that i don't like the idea of a new rad, i literally don't have the money to buy it.

does anyone know if an upgraded aluminum rad is better than the stock one on tj's? i know from some friends that it's not a good idea to "upgrade" to racing rads since they can preform worse than stock, but if there is a non racing upgrade for my rad, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When mine split, I used a patch made of a couple tubes of the flexible epoxy for plastic mixed with some short fuzz cut from a nylon ratchet strap. Sand and clean the split and the surrounding area. Slather the epoxy on thick and wide. Let it cure for as long as you can before running the engine. Mine sat for at least 8 hours in the hot sun.

I ran this for a full week of daily driving until the new radiator arrived. The patch area looked fine and likely had plenty of life left in it. But during my daily inspections, I finally noticed all the other little weeping cracks scattered throughout the radiator. The old radiator was still a ticking time bomb until the next weak spot failed. It's surprising how much the radiator expands once fully heated.

The overheating may be another problem in the cooling system and may be the thing that makes the patch or the next weak spot fail sooner rather than later.
ended up buying the permatex kit specific for plastic rads/fuel tanks and im letting it set overnight. also bought some K-seal since i've heard good things. will keep u updated on the results for future reference.
 

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A stock Mopar radiator is the best option. Your's lasted as long as it did, which was a pretty long time.

I am not aware of an upgrade over stock, unless you are calling anything different than stock an "upgrade".
 

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Gross. Looks like someone mixed coolant in the past and did a poor job maintaining it. Agree with above, stick with stock and use G05 coolant (after flushing of course)
 
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