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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. It is actually my daughters. It has 95K on the motor and we have had it just over a year and put about 6K on it since we owned it. So far the only thing done was a water pump, oil and trans change. All has been relatively well until this Friday evening. Got a call that it threw a check engine light.

Read it and it was a P2098 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System to lean Bank 2.

I figured it may be a good time to do a tune up. Was surprised to not see any spark plug wires or distributor cap but after doing some internet lookups I quickly found you need to get the ignition coil pack off and read countless threads about folks struggling to undo the ignition coil connector near the firewall.

I first cleaned the throttle body with some cleaner and then proceeded to remove the coil pack and change the plugs.

I did what others had done and simply moved It out of the way and changed the plug with some autolite iridium xp985's. Would've liked to change the coil but gave up.

Now when I took it for a test ride it ran fine but threw another engine code around 60mph.

A P0157 Oxygen Sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 2.

so I run up to the autoparts store and get a ntk 23158. got it out of the bung pretty easy but struggled to get the connector behind the engine compartment over the tranny undone for a while.

Now I am not happy after struggling with the ignition coil connector and its placement and the o2 sensor. what where the thinking when they designed this chit.

so off I go again down the road and I start getting some misses and flashing of the check engine light. No it can't be but it is.

checked the code and now I have a p305 cylinder 5 misfire. wondering if I screwed up the #5 boot when I was struggling to move around the ignition coil to install the plugs or when I went to put it back on. who knows.

Off I go to the autoparts store again this morning to pick up a new ignition coil. Carefully studying the connector and reviewing pictures of the other half. took a telescopic mirror to look at the connector. Finally got the red slide lock out. what a pain that was but after that I had no luck squeezing the connector and releasing it. Sprayed some rem oil around the connecting thinking that would help getting it unstock. No freaking luck. then I started gently prying around the connecting thinking it would loosen it up. Nope, kept trying to press and wiggle and it wasn't budging. then more forceful screw driver pries and pulling hoping but finally the connector broke off some. then I said screw it I will keep prying off all the connector around the ignition coil. did that and it still wouldn't separate.

Thought about cutting the connector but it was getting dark and it wasn't sure about the wire colors and not having a replacement connector. put the ignition coil back on and will be pondering on waiting to get a pigtail connector or give up and take it to a real mechanic and have them do it hoping the new pigtail has some extra length in the event I need to replace the plugs or coil in the future. Not sure if the coil will fix my problem either but thought it wouldn't hurt to try. I am thinking a good mechanic should be able to run some diagnostics and determine what else is going on .

Not much to be found on a ignition coil connector with pigtail. Only found one.

Standard Motor Products Ignition Coil Connector Kit

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Standard Motor Products S-949
Ignition Coil Connector Kit


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Our List Price: $25.24

Select Year 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006​

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Part Number: 2324-05460697
Notes: Ignition Coil Connector -- Black; 4 Term. Female

Then I found what appears to be a bridge connector to extend the working room to hopefully allow a more easily removal.

anyone ever use this to add some length to the connection?

Duralast 1409 Ignition Coil Connector

$85 online

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Duralast products are engineered and manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics, a leading global supplier of advanced vehicle electronics solutions for original equipment and replacement applications. Every component either matches or improves on the OE design to ensure fast ... more »
Duralast products are engineered and manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics, a leading global supplier of advanced vehicle electronics solutions for original equipment and replacement applications. Every component either matches or improves on the OE design to ensure fast, easy installation, superior performance and reliability. Wells offers extensive application information and technical support via its Tech Line at 1-800-558-9770. « less

I can't find either of these in any of our local auto parts stores here in Maryland and they must be ordered.

Anyone have any luck finding a replacement connector in local parts stores
other than mail order as both of these have to be delivered?

The jeep has always struggled to get over 65mph and I wondered if it was the gears but kept thinking 4.10 gears shouldn't keep it from wanting to get over 65 right around 2k or so on the tach. I have been wondering if it had a clogged Catalytic converter keeping it from moving out at high speed. we haven't had any missing or anything else but it also heats up real quick to 210.

I think I am going to take order a magnaflow cat system and then add the bolt on exhaust. Can't figure out what the difference is between the magnaflow 49690 versus 93649 and will call tomorrow in hopes of figuring this mystery out.

On a positive not the plugs were easy to get to and install. Saw some youtube videos on using an air compressor to blow out all the stuff in the cylinder holes before removing the plugs.

Between the ignition coil connector and 02 connector I have had my full of the jeep for this weekend.

Will report back with my progress.

5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
after picking up the bridge connector today at autozone, I quickly realized the release was on the same side as the red locking slide tab. for some reason I thought it was on the back side. dumb me. Now I now. Took jeep to the dealers last night. they are waiting for a pigtail connector. Gonna cost a whole lot more for the fix now.
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