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this one guy on the trail has dana 35 rear and 30 front....he claims that he just rebuilt it with chromoly axles and gear...that and he put a spartain locker in them

now i know lunchbox lockers aren't the best speaking about reliability

but he claims he wheels it hard and hasnt broken anything yet

i always believed the dana 35 will snap like a twig no matter what


btw he was running 40 inch swampers

would a built d35 actually perform well if its built/setup right?

anyone have experience with that?
 

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I put a "super Dana 35" kit with the beefier axles in mine along with a Detroit locker. It lasted about a year before I junked it all for a Dana 44. I also have a little more power under the hood than most, so a 35 may be fine behind 2.5L.
 

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I'd break a super 35, I broke 2 stock 35's, rear rubicon 44, and my current 8.8's old lsd. All on rocky hill climbs and I have 33's... I'm getting tired of swapping out rear ends! At least the only weak part of my 8.8 is the LSD. I'll be putting in an ox locker when I regear to 4.56 when I go SOA though
 

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For the price to build a "super 35" you can have a much better built 8.8. Get a super 8.8 with c-clip eliminator and Yukon chromoly axles with a true locker and you'll be a happy camper.
 

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I think the important thing here is "wheels it hard". That is different for everyone. The D35 has inherit limitations, mainly size related.

Usually you can keep a D35 alive if you are smart. Wheel hop, bouncing on rocks, those types of things are what grenade them most of the time.
 

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I'm gonna wave the bs flag here


Lunchbox lockers and chromoly shafts on stock axles holding upto hard wheeling on 40's. Yea sure....... I've got guys I wheel with on 35's snapping chromoly shafts on D44's and chromoly shafts on D60's with 37's and up.
 

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In general the old true the super 35's are okay with no bigger than 35's with a locker.
 

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was that a chromoly axle? and what tire size?
It was a Terra 44 with chromoly shafts and CTM joints on a 35x12.50 behind a stock 4.0 the axle shaft snapped at the yoke took out the balljoint on metal masher in moab.


I've personally destroyed a Super35 behind a 2.5l YJ on 33's climbing a ledge slowly and the tire slipped then gained traction and it twisted splines on the shaft and broke the carrier.
 

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I'd break a super 35, I broke 2 stock 35's, rear rubicon 44, and my current 8.8's old lsd. All on rocky hill climbs and I have 33's... I'm getting tired of swapping out rear ends! At least the only weak part of my 8.8 is the LSD. I'll be putting in an ox locker when I regear to 4.56 when I go SOA though
Heavy right foot?

To the OP, the Dana 35 is ok even with a locker if you keep the tires small. If you have a heavy foot, and some decent power you can break anything.
I have never broken a Dana 35 axle, but have taken many, many Jeeps with them to the top of every hill I tried even with welded spider gears. As far as a Spartan locker or "lunch box locker" being weak, I don't see how that is true, but they do take some getting use to.
The thing a lot of folks don't seem to get is that with the exception of mudding, having a locker means that you should not need wheel speed to get up or over an obstacle.
If you hammer down the throttle every time, you will break something eventually.
I went wheeling last week at Uwharrie National Forest and I was the smallest rig with the smallest tires (33") and only have a Spartan locker in the front and a Ford 8.8 rear with limited slip. I went everywhere with little to no effort. I even went around some of the others while they struggled to get up some of the mountain trails. I went with the 8.8 to get the disk brakes, and I also plan on doing a 4.0 swap soon.

I have made no effort to offend anyone, this is just my personal experiences and opinion
 

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I have a 1995 Rio Grande that I've owned for 11 years with the D35. When I finally re-geared it (4.88) 3 years ago, and jumped to 33's, I had the Alloy USA Grande 30 spline shafts and Eaton E-locker put in my D35, along with an Eaton in the D30. I have a 4 cylinder, granted, but when my friend that is a jeep builder put the gears, locker and the shafts in the 35, he gave me credit for my stock shafts and 4.10 gear sets. They were like new front and rear, and they were original, with 115,000 miles, and he used them in his Cherokee that he wheels with (he wanted the 4.10s and he never seen a cleaner used set). I'm no hardcore rock crawler, but I do some occasional rocks, but I'm comfortable with the setup I have for the power I'm pushing. Have never had a problem with my axles from day 1...but I am easy on the skinny pedal and crawl like a snail, and I don't really think with this rig, I'll go much larger than 33's. If I do, I will definitely upgrade to something heavier when the time comes, or when this unit fails. You hear different stories about how the D35 has failed time after time, but until mine chokes, I'll keep it and soak in more information on swaps so I'm prepared for the upgrade.
 

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What would the largest tire size you would go with if you had the 4.0L?
its not about the engine..its about tires spinning then getting traction or all of the weight shifting to one side that busts them. I have seen a good driver on a stock 35 with a locker have no issues for years. I have also been on a ride with a guy who busted his with 29's and an open diff. To me for the cost of the upgraded shafts, save for a few more months and get a ford 8.8 in there. it has far bigger shafts, nice thick axle tubes and if you add a full case locker the stock shafts are fine with 35's, put some upgraded shafts in and it will run 37's.
 

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Everybody knows a guy who knows a guy who wheeled with the sister of a guy who couldn't be there because ..............

It really comes down to how YOU wheel, if your throttle heavy and have a 350, then a lot of axles will not work for you. If your careful, pick your lines, don't get wheels to hopping and jumping you'll probably be just fine.

I personally still run a Ð-35c / Ð-30 combo, alloy shafts all around and Detroit True-Tracs, I also have the Superior truss in the back. I have a 2.5 and I run 33"s and haven't had any trouble and I do some hard wheeling, but I don'y mud and I never rely on the "power out" way of thinking / method of wheeling.

A ford 8.8 is certainly stronger, thicker axle shafts and all, it still has c-clips but they are stout. The best thing you can do is think about where you see your Jeep at it's completion, then realize that you may go way beyond that (most of us do). So when you have a good idea of your final drive-train and how you want to wheel, then build your Jeep for just beyond that.

Cost is not insignificant, I have about $900 in to my Ð-35c and about $1k in to my Ð-30, it's not cheap to build the stock axles, you won't be saving money going that route.
 
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