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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone installed a Bulletproof over knuckle steering system. I've been looking at it for a while and it looks like it's built great, but want to get someone who has one's opinion.
Here's the link.

http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringsystems.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeh I'd like to change to an over knuckle steering setup and looking at this one or the one from Rusty's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Probably right. I've replaced so many tie rods over the years that I get woosey when I see heim joints instead of TRE's.
 

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Very interesting, but how much?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like $345 for the regular system and you can beef it up even more for more $$. Their web is hard to navigate but the pricing and options are here

http://bulletproofsteering.com/jeeppricingoptions.html

I haven't talked to any one that has a knuckle over but have heard they fix most steering issues from lifts as they correct all the geometry. I might have to change the track bar from what I've read but they said in an email that it depends on the trackbar. I'm using a RE so would have to see.
 

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Drives by Braille
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Go with a Currie steering system. It's a direct replacement for the stock TJ/XJ steering and is super beefy, and strong enough for up to 35" tires.. It's solid stock and uses TRE's which are better IMO as heims can and do wear out, especially if they get dirt in them.

Also with an over the knuckle steering, you'll need to relocate the trackbar, which is unnecessary with lifts lower than 4".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I bought a cheap steering setup on eBay even after advising someone not to go cheap. Had it for two months and all the TRE's wore out and it moved around like jello. Went back to stock with new ends. I've heard good things about the Curry but it still does not correct the geometry. The over knuckle goes back to a standard pitman. The ultimate jeep quest continues.
 

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What?!

What do you mean Currie does not have correct geometry? It's a factory replacment and does not alter the factory geometry at all.

The over the knuckle changes the geometry completely. You need to modify your track bar location to get the geometry back. Having a flat drag link is not considered "perfect" geometry. It may help, but it's more trouble than it's worth on low lifts.

Did you happen to notice that the vehicle they were working on, on your link was a Ford Bronco? :rolleyes:

I bought a cheap steering setup on eBay even after advising someone not to go cheap. Had it for two months and all the TRE's wore out and it moved around like jello.
Wore out you say? :rolleyes: eBay and "cheap" go hand in hand for a reason when it comes to most automotive parts.

The Currie TRE's are 1-ton equivalents, an if greased regularly, will probably outlast any heims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When you lift a jeep you effect the geometry and correct with a dropped pitman. The over knuckle puts the tie rod higher and back to original position.
Yes they have been building up broncos for years. The old broncos had a lot of front end designs that jeep used when they came out with the TJ. I have 4.5 inch lift and it drives good but with the roads I drive I am hard on steering components. Always looking. Will look at the Currys a little closer too.
 

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When you lift a jeep you effect the geometry and correct with a dropped pitman. The over knuckle puts the tie rod higher and back to original position.
:rolleyes:

If you won't listen to me, maybe Jerry can later talk some sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The Curry is a direct replacement of the OEM....it is 200% stronger, but as far as I can tell it does not correct any steering problems that are in place. The only person that I talked to with an over the knuckle system (not sure what brand his was cause it was several years ago) loved it and said it had corrected all his steering issues. Thanks AxTJ... I keep looking.
 

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When you lift a jeep you effect the geometry and correct with a dropped pitman. The over knuckle puts the tie rod higher and back to original position.
Wow, you've got your geometry completely wrong. Installing a drop pitman arm is the last freakin' thing you want to do. The OTK you linked puts the draglink higher and out of the plane & out of parallel with respect to the track bar, giving you lots of bumpsteer. You need to relocate the track bar mount to go OTK to maintain steering geometry, then notch the frame or add lots of bumpstop (so the draglink clears at full compression).

I have 4.5 inch lift and it drives good but with the roads I drive I am hard on steering components. Always looking. Will look at the Currys a little closer too.
Buy the Currie system if you want beefier steering. You've got the geometry all screwed up and you have no idea what you're talking about with respect to a TJ...so just buy a kit and understand its done right. NO DROP PITMAN ARM! The only downside to the Currie system is the TRE's are pricey and you can't pick them up at the local NAPA. If you want to beef the Currie system up even more - buy the Savvy tie-rod for the Currie system...you'll break a knuckle before breaking the steering.

Call Gerald - www.savvyoffroad.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm trying to understand...I really am. I installed a drop pitman arm when I put the lift on 6 years ago. Are you saying that was not the right thing to do? What is the drop pitman arm for if not to correct the angles? I called Gerald today looking for brake pads...will call him again to see what I am missing on this.
Thanks
 

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I'm trying to understand...I really am. I installed a drop pitman arm when I put the lift on 6 years ago. Are you saying that was not the right thing to do? What is the drop pitman arm for if not to correct the angles? I called Gerald today looking for brake pads...will call him again to see what I am missing on this.
Thanks
No one knows why companies still include drop pitman arms with TJ lift kits, but they still do. They are NOT to be installed, and the most frequent problem on these forums is bumpsteer induced by a drop pitman arm.

The only reason to install one is because you installed a drop track bar bracket on the frame side. And most people don't run those because if you don't add enough bumpstop they hit the tie-rod at full suspension compression. Some find out the hard way though...

The drag link and track bar must maintain this relationship, in this order:
1. Parallel
2. In the same plane
3. Same length

Sometimes they aren't perfectly possible with major modifications, but the less you adhere to those properties, the worse the steering gets.
 
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