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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Q for the board:

I have a 2.5" Frankenlift in my garage awaiting install on my JKUR. I don't think I need to install the bump stop extensions, but am unsure. I don't anticipate the shocks bottoming out, which I believe is the limiting factor. My tires will be 34's, so rubbing shouldn't be an issue. Any other reasons I'd need bump stop extensions?

In the garage so far:
- Springs from a TF 2.5" for JKU
- TF Monster front and rear trackbars (not planning a bracket with these)
- OME Nitro Sport Shocks for 0-2.5" lift
- TF exhaust spacers
- Rancho geo brackets (older kind with just one hole)
- TF bump stop extensions, front and rear (about 3" high)

On the list to buy:
- Quadratec Hard Rock wheels w/ 34x10.5x17 KO2's
- Rubicon Express links for the rear (RE1157)
- JKS brake line brackets, front and rear (JKS2290)
- One 1/2" right rear puck for current Jeep Lean

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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I would add a couple of hockey pucks for bumpstops up front. in the back the tf ones are fine.
 

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The challenge is the OME shocks. They are pretty secretive about their specs. The older database I use shows the fronts are actually slightly shorter than stock Rubicon shocks compressed. Therefore, you wouldn't need any bump stop for those. The rears are virtually identical in length to the Rubicon shocks so you wouldn't need anything for those either...

That said, stock length shocks on a true 2.5 isn't optimal and will likely "top out" going over speed bumps and would have very poor droop, etc.
 

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I guess I was thinking the ome 60066 and 60067 which are 16/27.5 and 16.5/28
 

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I guess I was thinking the ome 60066 and 60067 which are 16/27.5 and 16.5/28
Those match up to the long travels, right? I think the 0-2.5's are short.
 

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Q for the board:

I have a 2.5" Frankenlift in my garage awaiting install on my JKUR. I don't think I need to install the bump stop extensions, but am unsure. I don't anticipate the shocks bottoming out, which I believe is the limiting factor. My tires will be 34's, so rubbing shouldn't be an issue. Any other reasons I'd need bump stop extensions?

In the garage so far:
- Springs from a TF 2.5" for JKU
- TF Monster front and rear trackbars (not planning a bracket with these)
- OME Nitro Sport Shocks for 0-2.5" lift
- TF exhaust spacers
- Rancho geo brackets (older kind with just one hole)
- TF bump stop extensions, front and rear (about 3" high)

On the list to buy:
- Quadratec Hard Rock wheels w/ 34x10.5x17 KO2's
- Rubicon Express links for the rear (RE1157)
- JKS brake line brackets, front and rear (JKS2290)
- One 1/2" right rear puck for current Jeep Lean

Thanks in advance for the help!
My experience with TF 2.5 lift and bump stops. My 35" KM2s are closer to 33.75"Flat Fenders and Bump Stops
 

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If you're doing the swap yourself then it is not too much extra work to assemble the axle without springs and then test clearance under articulation.
Basically remove springs & shocks, install new shocks & wheels/tire, then jack the axle up and see what happens. I disconnect a sway bar end link each end too to make it easier.
Also consider relocating the front brake line to ensure enough length. Rears will depend on the shock droop but on short shocks you can just bend the hard line down a little.
 

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The challenge is the OME shocks. They are pretty secretive about their specs. The older database I use shows the fronts are actually slightly shorter than stock Rubicon shocks compressed. Therefore, you wouldn't need any bump stop for those. The rears are virtually identical in length to the Rubicon shocks so you wouldn't need anything for those either...

That said, stock length shocks on a true 2.5 isn't optimal and will likely "top out" going over speed bumps and would have very poor droop, etc.
OME has always listed all their specs, if there is a company out there that is no shy from listing what they do best, is ARB, i've been using OME products for quite a while in many different applications, Toyota, Nissan, and now Jeep JKU, i can could probably recite you coil springs or shocks numbers based on weight and how much height you want go in all 3 platforms...

In any case, here is the latest OME guide as April 2017, do a search for the Word "Wrangler" and you'll see shocks and coil springs part numbers, then do a search for whatever part number that interest you, and their specs are there
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/OME_Guide_current.pdf

BP51 specs are listed in their respective catalog
BP51 specs
http://arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/newProductAdvice/2017/JeepWranglerJK_2Inch_BP51.pdf

http://www.arbusa.com/uploads/PDF/newProductAdvice/2015/OME_BP-51_JK_Retail.pdf

OME has 10 different shocks for the Jeep Wrangler

Front: 60066, 22.8" extended, 13.7" compressed
Front: 60066M, 25.4" extended, 15" compressed
Front: 60066L, 27.2", 15.9" compressed
BP51 Front: BP5160031, 22.75" extended, 14.5" compressed
BP51 Front: BP5160021, 24.9" extended, 15.6" compressed
BP51 Front: BP5160022 , 26.9" extended, 16.5" compressed

Rear: 60067, 24.3" extended, 14.5" compressed
Rear: 60067L, 27.8" extended, 16.6" compressed
BP51 Rear: BP5160032, 24.25" extended, 15.5" compressed
BP51 Rear: BP5160023, 26.9" extended, 16.6" compressed
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the discussion, guys. Looked at my shocks and they're the standard 60066 / 60067 so should be at the specs listed above.

So I'm thinking no bump stops unless someone has a case for them. Regardless, the TF stops that I have are ridiculously long, as they appear to take out the exact same amount of travel as the lift. I think they came with a pucks and shock extensions kit.

I'll double check travel like suggested without springs, but planning to go without for now.

Thanks again for all the advice and discussions! Please, please continue, as I'd like to see if there's consensus to be had.
 

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FYI, the bump stops don't take away the travel from the lift. They prevent everything from crushing up tighter than the shocks and springs can compress. Seems like a good idea to me to reinvestigate this cheap insurance. :)
 

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Thanks for all the discussion, guys. Looked at my shocks and they're the standard 60066 / 60067 so should be at the specs listed above.

So I'm thinking no bump stops unless someone has a case for them. Regardless, the TF stops that I have are ridiculously long, as they appear to take out the exact same amount of travel as the lift. I think they came with a pucks and shock extensions kit.

I'll double check travel like suggested without springs, but planning to go without for now.

Thanks again for all the advice and discussions! Please, please continue, as I'd like to see if there's consensus to be had.
I have a similar height lift with longer shocks than the ones you have.
Keep the 60067 in the back, you can run them with just 1" bumpstop.

For the front you can run the 60066m shocks for more travel, and you can try them with 1" bumpstop, if the tire rubs, just add another 1" bumpstop, but 1" should be good for your 34's. The 60066m shocks will be a better match for the TF 2.5 springs in the front, but you'll need an exhaust spacer.
 

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FYI, the bump stops don't take away the travel from the lift. They prevent everything from crushing up tighter than the shocks and springs can compress. Seems like a good idea to me to reinvestigate this cheap insurance. :)
Bump stops do indeed take away travel if they are not sized properly for the rest of the system. Most lift kits are designed for worst the case scenario which is almost always a compromise. Fender change and shock optimization will definitely require a bump stop change for max performance.
 

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Gone Fishin
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Bump stops do indeed take away travel if they are not sized properly for the rest of the system. Most lift kits are designed for worst the case scenario which is almost always a compromise. Fender change and shock optimization will definitely require a bump stop change for max performance.
Looking back at my post and yours I revise my opinion. Think I got the up mixed with down in my thinking when writing that!

The logic I was trying to use was that a "properly sized" bump stop is there to keep that side of the axles components, like shocks and springs, from bottoming out. Not overflexing as I mistakenly wrote.

Am trying to envision the whole system, so have a question myself, what is there to keep the shock from continually going up against its outer limit? Isn't it the opposing sides inner limits? Thanks in advance for the info! :)
 

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Looking back at my post and yours I revise my opinion. Think I got the up mixed with down in my thinking when writing that!

The logic I was trying to use was that a "properly sized" bump stop is there to keep that side of the axles components, like shocks and springs, from bottoming out. Not overflexing as I mistakenly wrote.

Am trying to envision the whole system, so have a question myself, what is there to keep the shock from continually going up against its outer limit? Isn't it the opposing sides inner limits? Thanks in advance for the info! :)
Yeah, you're on it...

Here's a brief chat on travel and limiters. Bump stops perform 2 primary functions. They are to prevent the tire from hitting the fender/body or whatever else might be in the way at full compression and they are to prevent the shocks from bottoming out and damaging the seals, whichever comes first. That's why a well designed system will have the bump stops set right before both of those happen at roughly the same time. If you bump stop to keep the tire from hitting the fender and your shock still has 2" of up travel left, you are limiting your flex and vice versa.

As for droop, in most installations, it's the shock fully extended that controls the amount of down travel we have. Occasionally you will see limit straps. They also perform 2 functions. In a prerunner style setup, the straps keep the shocks from hitting full extension hard and often which will break the shock. Also, straps limit droop when the shock is longer than the free length of the springs will support. Too much droop and the spring can fall out...
 

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Exellent reply. Thanks pressurized. Haven't used the straps that are hanging underneath yet but I see that they are there.

All of this makes a bunch of sense.

Am assuming that the ones that are there might need changing out once I actually flex the system more this summer. Have only done some light low speed crawling so far. Creek beds, forest roads, ditches, etc.
 
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