CJK8 front axle in the house. 1990 Ford high pinion Dana 60, King Pin drivers side drop. This one has dually hubs on it but already found some Dana 50/60 regular hubs for it. Total with new hubs 680.00! Stripped it down cut off leaf brackets and ready to order parts...
Axle hunt complete and of all things at the same wrecker as the first axle. 800.00 was a bit of a premium for a rear axle but its a 2002 Chevy Dana 70 and factory disk brakes so that was the bonus - a bit of a rare axle for Chevy. while it has 4.10 gears and a posi that will come out for one of the new Eaton 4 pinion E-lockers and 4.88 gears. Why 4.88? Well I want to run the super 60 gears in the front and they only come in 4.88 or 5.38 and you can't get 5.38 gears for a Dana 70 - my choice was made for me!
Couple updates, but I have not been idle. Picked up a fresh pile of parts Saturday. Still waiting for the axle brackets from Currie but I did grind clean the rear diff and prepped it for the new brackets.
Steering arms for the Dana 60
Diff cover for the 60
Yukon hardcore hubs
5.38 OEM Dana gears for the front
Open 14 bolt diff case so I can install a Detroit in the back
TMR 15 bolt high clearance rear diff kit came for the 14 bolt
Teraflex sway bars front and rear
6 inch coils from Teraflex - my snow wheeling coil height so I can get 44s under this rig.
First up was some work on the 14 bolt. The 15 bolt kit shaves off close to 2 inches off a 14 bolt style diff. I have a more modern 2004 10.5 version and the kit says for pre 87 14 bolts but it all worked out fine. At this point the bottom plate is just tacked in. I was getting low on welding gas so will heat the cast and weld it up tomorrow.
Started cutting into the dash now that my steering parts are all in. I got the security disconnect, install kit and a basic three spoke steering wheel from Grant to match up with the Ididit steering column. I also worked on getting the Dakota digital gauge cluster into the dash.
Last but not least I cut off the rear track bar like I did in the front and made a new one out of 1/4 inch plate.
TMR 15 bolt high clearance kit for the 14 bolt
Grant lockable steering wheel disconnect system. Splurged for 15 bucks and got a Jeep horn button .
Another busy weekend, worked on getting some of the electrical components in and cleaned up a bunch of the axle parts to get ready to weld on the Currie axle brackets.
I set up a section of the dash for the air compressor controls. I used an old oil gauge as mock up - I have a new 200 PSI air pressure gauge coming. I used the "air" square CJ dash light and used a vintage CJ switch so I can use the CJ style switch knob.
Maradyne heater is in and found a home for the Holley fuel injection computer.
The 6.0L is drive my wire so needed to use the factory gas pedal and I bought a Wilwood brake pedal.
Hydroboost for $40.00 from a GM astro van...
I have a simple Painless chassis harness and this Trail Rocker solenoid box to run everything else.
Worked on getting the Jeep Air compressor in and brackets made to fit in place of the GM compressor for my on board air. Opened up the compressor, plugged the oiling hole and threaded the fittings along with adapted it into the stock position so it can run off the separate idler pulley and on its own belt.
Been talking Anti rock bars in another thread so I thought I'd post pictures of my Teraflex sway bars. Tera makes three versions dual rate, a lock and unlock style and ones that are similar to Currie. All the suspension in this rig is JK Teraflex long arm so went Tera for sway bars and well glad I did these are sweet and with cast arms that look way nicer than the Currie ones. I went with just the single torsion style as I had concerns the disconnect knob would be an issue when I try and stuff 44s under the rig for winter wheeling. They also list for less retail price as well. These are front and rear JK sway bars and brackets.
They help with rebound I am presuming you mean compared to just a solid bump stop. These compress when hit then hold in the tube as your suspension bounces back so you don't get the bump stop unloading its energy back into the suspension. Softer hit as well.
And here is a vid on my internal bypass shocks I'm running. Mine are not coil overs though just shocks. I run deep snow in the winter on 46 inch tires and like hitting the sand dunes as well as trail wheeling so wanted to suck up bumps the best possible in something shapped like a Jeep and not a rock buggy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBjZu3TfjF8
A little organizing today and swinging the axles under the Jeep. Had to install the knuckles so I can set the bracket angles. Also made a real strap for the fuel tank so its not in there on blocks. Also stuffed both Fox front bumps in and everything seems to line up pretty good. And some randoms... i'll be set up and ready to weld all the brackets on the axles next weekend and get the suspension links in.
LS with the Goat Built brackets which moves the alt to the passenger side and the power steering pump up high drivers side.
Thanks guys finally getting to the suspension. I had to first install the atlas on the 4L80e, there are a couple adapters to make this happen. Then I ran into something pretty much expected which was a slight floor mod for the Atlas, and I also found I needed to clearance the front most cross member so I could drop the trans down a bit more for better rear driveshaft clearance under the floor. After that it was on to the rear axle, Teraflex control arms and the Currie bracket kit. Also found that I would not have quite enough clearance for the air bumps to be on the outside of the frame so another frame mod to french the bumps into the frame. I haven't filled in the cut section yet or started cutting the bump cans I figured this was pretty good for today and I wanted to get started on painting the axle.
Atlas and Adapters.
Adapter on trans
Spacer on t-case
Currie bracket kit for rear axle
My main reason for using Currie other than great parts was that I moved the upper point of the shock up two inhces so I could lift the bottom up and trim off the long brackets for better rock clearance.
The Currie brackets have a series of holes for different shock positions and the shock tab bolts on, no one else that I could find does this.
My two best friends for aligning brackets a plumb bob and a digital angle gauge.
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