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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will be installing front and rear anti rocks on my jeep this spring and was wondering if you guys have any cool tips and tricks. Also I bought them used and bought stienjager studded heims to replace the old rusty ones and they seem to flop all over the place. Is that normal? Oh and what's the best way to clean out the front crossmember rust
 

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The front is really simple to install. The hardest part is trying to get the bar thru one bushing and lined up to go thru the other. Even then, pretty simple. I had to file a couple metal burrs around the crossmember in order for the bushings to fit properly. Use a moly lube or paste when installing the bushings too.The heim joints shouldnt flop or bounce anywhere, they should be nice and tight. WHen they start to wear out is when they "flop". For the crossmember I would get a wire brush and brush away any rust, blow it out with a compressor and maybe shoot a coat of paint over it. Cant speak for the rear as I havent installed one...
 

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my rear is a weld on
Nice! I haven't set one up as I've got bigger ticket items ahead of that and I plan to do it when I outboard the shocks and move the coil buckets out back. The links I tried to attach say there is an error on locating the site, but have you looked at the Currie site or called them? I spoke with them at length when I was working out a custom solution for the front prior to installing my front Antirock and they are quite receptive to communication. They are also very knowledgeable about their product. Good luck and enjoy!
 

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Nobody else has an anti rock?
I have the front. There is very little to say about its installation. Just put it on. If you want to get fussy with it, then set the arm angle based on your actual suspension travel. At the halfway point, the arms should be a little higher than level. That way the bar can't flip over if the axle hits full droop. Pull the coils and cycle the suspension if you want to be certain.

Beyond that, play with the adjustments. I started out with the loosest setting and have slowly worked towards the middle. This makes the front as stiff as it can be without limiting articulation.
 

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Bolt on to what? The rear AR kit comes with weld on mounting tabs.
I had always thought that there was a bolt on version that didn't require welding tabs to the tube, but only because it's listed as such on several sites. However, the kits listed as "bolt on" require "minor welding" in the details, which must mean there is only one version: the one I have referred to as a "weld on" version. I learned something new!

I wonder if the OP ever called Currie? Seems like the correct position of the arms would dictate both the rod length and the tab position, at which point you would only need to tack the tabs, and check clearance at bump, droop, and oppositional flex. Though like I said, I have not done one on the back yet.
 

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I wonder if the OP ever called Currie? Seems like the correct position of the arms would dictate both the rod length and the tab position, at which point you would only need to tack the tabs, and check clearance at bump, droop, and oppositional flex. Though like I said, I have not done one on the back yet.
From what I have read, rear placement can also be dictated by other things like outboarded shocks. You mount it it where it fits. I can't see where a sway bar would be too picky about where it placed as long as it doesn't hit anything.
 

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I know that the install is very tight. It took two of us to muscle and persuade the sway bar into place. Once the tab were welded (!) then it all went together just fine, but at least on my TJ it was a tight fit.
 
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