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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

My Camber is off by -0.3 degrees on the front left side. This is my first alignment. Is this a problem? I have a 12 JKUR, new 285/70R17 MTRs with 1.5 inch spacers, 2 year old Terflex level lift. Tubes are strait, axle Cs don’t seem bent after measuring, and ball joints are firm- no play. I'm wondering if the machine is off? Or maybe I should replace the ball joints and see if it comes back into specs. It seems to drive fine. Any other Jk owners with similar issues?



Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So, I have been reading information on how easy it is to bend the upper C. I am wonder if that is what happened here.

I might gusset the top Cs and put in some stock ball joints and have it aligned again --see if the camber is the same. If it is, I will probably put in positive degree ball joints to correct it back.


  • Are any Rubicon owners bending their Cs on stock 32s and/or 33 inch tires off-road?
 

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I am no alignment expert, but -.3 degrees isnt much. I doubt you bent them with tires that small. the C's arent THAT weak. I do have gussets but I wheel on 37's and I am pretty dang brutal to that axle and have had no issues.

to your "are rubicon owners seeing this problem" as far as this topic is concerned, the dana 30 and dana 44 are identical, so everyone would be seeing it, not just rubicon owners.

if you are concerned about it, I would go get a second opinion on a different machine.

I wouldnt suggest positive degree balljoints, I would assume they are made by mopar and are just as terrible as the stock balljoints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am no alignment expert, but -.3 degrees isnt much. I doubt you bent them with tires that small. the C's arent THAT weak. I do have gussets but I wheel on 37's and I am pretty dang brutal to that axle and have had no issues.

to your "are rubicon owners seeing this problem" as far as this topic is concerned, the dana 30 and dana 44 are identical, so everyone would be seeing it, not just rubicon owners.

if you are concerned about it, I would go get a second opinion on a different machine.

I wouldnt suggest positive degree balljoints, I would assume they are made by mopar and are just as terrible as the stock ball joints.
Thanks,

makes me feel better. I might gusset the upper Cs for piece of mind with something like a Teraflex kit.
 

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Alignment machines (& some operators) are often out of calibration, & your vehicles spec at 7/10th's total degrees is a pretty tight tolerance. According to the readings posted, you're only 6.5/10th's of a degree off dead on-a little over a half degree. I wouldn't worry about it at all..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alignment machines (& some operators) are often out of calibration, & your vehicles spec at 7/10th's total degrees is a pretty tight tolerance. According to the readings posted, you're only 6.5/10th's of a degree off dead on-a little over a half degree. I wouldn't worry about it at all..

Great, thanks for the information, that is good to know coming from a certified mechanic. Those are the specs according to the alignment printout/shop. I don't know if they are the actual JK factory tolerances.

Just for information sake, and to help others, when should you start to be concerned?

Also, would you happen to know if I should worry about gusseting my upper Cs with the Dana 44 and 33" tires. During the summer, I do a fair amount of moderate trails mostly in the Sierras-I am planning on doing the Rubicon this year or next as well.

I have read a lot about weak upper Cs, but I really have not read "any" first hand accounts of bending them.
 

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I wonder about this as I just put mine on the rack today and my camber was off too. My caster was fine so makes me wonder if something is up. I have not wheeled hard enough to bend anything and have 9000 miles on my 2014 rubicon unlimited. drives great and tracks straight. Seems odd that toe is so off too.
 

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Great, thanks for the information, that is good to know coming from a certified mechanic. Those are the specs according to the alignment printout/shop. I don't know if they are the actual JK factory tolerances.

Just for information sake, and to help others, when should you start to be concerned?

Also, would you happen to know if I should worry about gusseting my upper Cs with the Dana 44 and 33" tires. During the summer, I do a fair amount of moderate trails mostly in the Sierras-I am planning on doing the Rubicon this year or next as well.

I have read a lot about weak upper Cs, but I really have not read "any" first hand accounts of bending them.
IMO, If it really bothers you & you have the money, then go for it. If not, I wouldn't worry about gusseting, you should be fine.
 

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It's no secret the factory joints are junk. Expected life 50k or less depending on tire size and use.

Jadmt
I'm sure it's nothing given both sides being off about the same. Worst case a bent axle tube and I highly think that's the case. I wouldn't worry about it. Get a 2nd opinion if you want.

All. Make it a habit to check your ball joints. To to this. Lift each tire off the ground about 3". Enough to get under it with a pry tool. I have a large crow bar that works great. Pry/lift up on the tire and listen for clunking. The clunking can be seen looking at the vertical play in the joints.
 

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I don't believe anything is bent, the SAI & Included Angle look fine in the readings posted.

No offense intended...
does it seem strange that they did nothing as far as any adjustments but set back numbers and track and wb diff changed same with rear toe, thrust angle and camber? I agree I do not see how axles could be bent as no hard wheeling.
 

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I did check the ball joints as kjeeper10 suggested and no play or clunking that I can detect.
 

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does it seem strange that they did nothing as far as any adjustments but set back numbers and track and wb diff changed same with rear toe, thrust angle and camber? I agree I do not see how axles could be bent as no hard wheeling.
It doesn't seem strange at all. Those numbers can change slightly (as they did) when the vehicle is 'bounced' to settle things such as wheel slip-plates, or when turning the wheels to do a caster swing, etc....
 

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Thanks good to know. Worth changing toe in?
 

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crazy thing is it steers straight at any speed perfect wear on tires no pulling etc.

I also measure the toe at about 1/8" but I know using a steel tape is not accurate still I have done it several times so I am perplexed why it shows negative. I am using points that are mid hub up from level cement floor both front and rear.
 

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