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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched, I really have. I'm wondering if there is some way to have the Rubi's sway bar not try to reconnect above 17mph. I do a lot of dirt road driving in 4H where there are smooth bits and rocky bits.

I know I could put manual disconnects on it, but as long as the electronic sway bar disco is working I'd like to use it. I also read numerous threads about modding the lockers but I could not find similar info about the sway bar.

Thanks.
 

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There are some electrical hacks that allow you to stay disconnected at speed same as being able to lock in 4hi and even 2h.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are some electrical hacks that allow you to stay disconnected at speed same as being able to lock in 4hi and even 2h.
I remember reading about several, though I can't recall if they worked. But I can't find the specific information now, so basically looking for a "how to" thread.
 

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Modding can be done but it's a pretty complex and in depth procedure. You have to bypass the e-bar's control board. The problem with that is the electronic stop for the plunger no longer works since it's part of the control board. You have to build in a diy stop so the plunger doesn't over extend itself. That involves strategically locating a micro switch to disconnect plunger power as the plunger extends to its intended maximum position.



Long story short.... you would be better off converting it to manual or air.
 

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When I installed a Rubicon swaybar in my sport, I did the manual conversion. I don't have a button in the cab I can press to disconnect but it's still a lot more convenient than having to deal with swaybar disconnects.
 

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I'm putting a Rubicon swaybar in my Sahara. The project is in progress on my workbench as we speak. I'm going with a pneumatic actuator to replace the electrical. That will give me the freedom to disconnect any time I want.

I have a lot of aches and pains. If I can avoid kneeling down before each trail to deal with disconnects, it's a big win for me.
 

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There are at least 2 pneumatic actuators on the market; you can (dis)connect at will with the same kind of setup you'd use for an air locker.

JKS has a cable conversion kit:
As mentioned you can also hack the electronics:
https://vimeo.com/6622226
 

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I'm putting a Rubicon swaybar in my Sahara. The project is in progress on my workbench as we speak. I'm going with a pneumatic actuator to replace the electrical. That will give me the freedom to disconnect any time I want.

I have a lot of aches and pains. If I can avoid kneeling down before each trail to deal with disconnects, it's a big win for me.
Hopefully the pneumatics work better. Put an Edisco in my Sport. And within 6 mos. of doing so went to manual discos. But I don't have physical limitations so that wasn't a factor. If you bought used like I did- just be aware some were pulled because they had issues.

There is also this option too, I have no personal experience with this setup but I may look into it in the future:

https://www.currieenterprises.com/bolt-in-antirock-sway-bars


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Currie affects street handling. I have many, many friends with Anti-Rocks- they all say "they get used to it". I'd rather take 5 minutes to manually disco while airing down than screw with my handling on the road. Literally this weekend was one of the very few times I wished otherwise. Just tooling around on some dirt. Granted I could've pushed the button to disco- but getting it to reconnect is a 50/50 chance. My buddy with Antirocks had a good time reminding us how much more comfortable his ride was over ours. But in 5 years that's about 3 times I've wished for Anti's. They do work well for crawling - just a matter of what your priority is.
 

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Currie affects street handling. I have many, many friends with Anti-Rocks- they all say "they get used to it". I'd rather take 5 minutes to manually disco while airing down than screw with my handling on the road. Literally this weekend was one of the very few times I wished otherwise. Just tooling around on some dirt. Granted I could've pushed the button to disco- but getting it to reconnect is a 50/50 chance. My buddy with Antirocks had a good time reminding us how much more comfortable his ride was over ours. But in 5 years that's about 3 times I've wished for Anti's. They do work well for crawling - just a matter of what your priority is.
Currie designed the Antirock for buggies that had too much suspension articulation. And for competition rigs that have to mix high speed with rock crawling. And they're great for that purpose.

But the marketing department at Currie figured out that they could sell a bunch of them to people who would "get used to it". So you see them on a lot of Wranglers.

Trouble is, they're a compromise. So you have a Jeep that leans a lot more on the street and you lift tires more often when you're on the rocks. It's the worst of both worlds in one convenient package.

If anything, I'd the opposite direction. I'd like to have a stiffer swaybar with disconnects. That way I get less lean on the street than with the stock swaybar while still being able to fully disconnect and get the most out of my suspension flex when I'm on the rocks.
 

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Currie designed the Antirock for buggies that had too much suspension articulation. And for competition rigs that have to mix high speed with rock crawling. And they're great for that purpose.

But the marketing department at Currie figured out that they could sell a bunch of them to people who would "get used to it". So you see them on a lot of Wranglers.

Trouble is, they're a compromise. So you have a Jeep that leans a lot more on the street and you lift tires more often when you're on the rocks. It's the worst of both worlds in one convenient package.

If anything, I'd the opposite direction. I'd like to have a stiffer swaybar with disconnects. That way I get less lean on the street than with the stock swaybar while still being able to fully disconnect and get the most out of my suspension flex when I'm on the rocks.
Agreed. But I have more people tell me I am wrong than right. To each their own. I just don't get why disconnecting is considered such a big deal to avoid. Dirt roads and speed are different. But if you're rock crawling your going to want to be disconnected all the time. I am disco'ed before I am even checking the pressure on my first tire.
All for stiffie sways and full articulation... See my profile pic :)
 

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Hopefully the pneumatics work better. Put an Edisco in my Sport. And within 6 mos. of doing so went to manual discos. But I don't have physical limitations so that wasn't a factor. If you bought used like I did- just be aware some were pulled because they had issues./QUOTE]

Yup, though a lot of the issues are with the electronics. For me though I didn't even want to mess with the electronics. The reason it's still on the bench is I still need to open it up and clean / regrease all the innards. Manual would certainly eliminate that work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all that provided info. I think I'll look into a set of manual sway bar link disconnects. That way I can continue the use the E-disco when it is occasionally needed, but if I am wheeling all day I'll just manually disconnect.
 

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EVO backup the E Discos (non-pneumatic)
 

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Thanks for all that provided info. I think I'll look into a set of manual sway bar link disconnects. That way I can continue the use the E-disco when it is occasionally needed, but if I am wheeling all day I'll just manually disconnect.
Had my Teraflex quick discos for 5 years. All good.
 

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It's the worst of both worlds in one convenient package.

Cannot believe I finally found someone that agrees with me.
 

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Thanks for all that provided info. I think I'll look into a set of manual sway bar link disconnects. That way I can continue the use the E-disco when it is occasionally needed, but if I am wheeling all day I'll just manually disconnect.
And while you're at it get some Bartact covers. I have everything I need to disco on the rear seat back. (I was just on that thread...that's what made me think of it. My mind works in mysterious ways...) :crazy:
 

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