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Discussion Starter #1
So my oil pump is buggered. Pretty much every time I drive the jeep now, at some point during my trip I'll accelerate past 3500rpm, and the oil pressure will stay mid-40s instead of jumping up to mid 80s, then BAM, limp mode. I can watch the oil pressure readout and there's never a fluctuation, so it's not the sensor. So I have questions.

1. Can the oil pump be mechanically bypassed to operate only in high output mode?
2. If so, will this cause any ECU problems?
3. Is there a replacement pump that works just like a regular goddamn oil pump, without the stupid two-stage nonsense?
4. How costly a repair is this?
5. I actually don't even know where the oil pump is located. What is involved in the repair?

Charles.
 

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Nope, whoops. This is a JK. Problem started at 100,034 miles on the odometer, and three months past the 5-year powertrain warranty. D'oh.

Charles.
 

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So my oil pump is buggered. Pretty much every time I drive the jeep now, at some point during my trip I'll accelerate past 3500rpm, and the oil pressure will stay mid-40s instead of jumping up to mid 80s, then BAM, limp mode. I can watch the oil pressure readout and there's never a fluctuation, so it's not the sensor. So I have questions.

1. Can the oil pump be mechanically bypassed to operate only in high output mode?
2. If so, will this cause any ECU problems?
3. Is there a replacement pump that works just like a regular goddamn oil pump, without the stupid two-stage nonsense?
4. How costly a repair is this?
5. I actually don't even know where the oil pump is located. What is involved in the repair?

Charles.
There's no reason to keep putting up with that, or to rig or bypass anything.
Feel free to poke around the blog post and of course watch "motorcity mechanic's" videos on youtube of a 3.6L Pentastar oil pump replacement.

It is located inside the oil pan. If you've turned a wrench, resealed a few diff covers or an oil pan in your day then you should be good. Hardest part was popping off the old pan. The rest was really just a few bolts and careful cleaning of oil pan mating surfaces. Let the pan cure overnight, fill with oil and turn it on, see if the oil light goes off (has pressure etc). Worst case scenario you can turn it off and open it back up.

If you don't feel comfortable you can take it to a shop for around $500 plus parts.

I bought the oil pump AND the oil pump pickup O ring. You can get them from Quadratec or Mopar or dealer.

The oil pump has been super-ceded by a new part number (go figure, because of the bad sensor!) and it doesn't seem to have the old issues.
Mine has been perfectly fine after the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, if it's rigged to be always in high pressure mode, the problem won't happen again, ever.

Also right now it's possible to replace just the faulty solenoid, FWIW. They're available new for about $60.

Charles.
 

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Let me start by saying that I am almost certain that it will trip a code, and in no way do I endorse this. That said, your solenoid must be stuck on, because off is without power and would be high pressure more. So no matter what you have to pull it out.

If you pulled the part out, forced it to the off position reinstalled and disconnected the plug it would never flip on and go to the low power. This will likely flip a code.

Alternatively if you can remove just the solenoid you could cut the rod/plunger so that it is always open regardless of signal sent to the solenoid. This might not mess with the computer. Depends I don't know if it is watching the oil pressure to validate low or high.
 

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Well, if it's rigged to be always in high pressure mode, the problem won't happen again, ever.

Also right now it's possible to replace just the faulty solenoid, FWIW. They're available new for about $60.

Charles.
I didnt see it sold separate before. Glad they made it available. The plug on the stocker had a wiggle to it where it entered the solenoid. New version didnt.
Either way, it's nearly the same amount of work.

Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
 
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