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1995 Wrangler S / 2.5L / 5-Spd
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y’all. I’m trying to take my steering wheel off to change the key cylinder and the thing will not budge. Got a wheel removal tool and even that won’t do it. All it seems to do is bend the screws/bolts screwed into the wheel. Any words of wisdom? Thank you!
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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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I did the penetrating oil soak. Apply enough pressure to pull on the wheel with the tool, then tapped around the columm with a rubber mallet to coax it to break loose.
 
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Try using 3 bolts triangulated to spread the leverage. Never seen a puller not work when used correctly myself. GL.
Troy
 
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I don't remember the size or pitch of the bolts you need to pull the steering wheel, but if the bolts you're using are bending, I'd go to the hardware store and get some grade 8 hex head bolts and a corresponding number of flat washers. Before you head to the hardware store, soak the area in the center of the steering wheel where the shaft comes out with your favorite penetrating oil.
Put the nut back on the shaft before you set up the puller with the grade 8 bolts. Once you have as much torque on the puller as you think should pop the steering wheel loose, whack the top of the puller with a 3# hammer. The shock should pop it loose and having the nut on the shaft will clean up any buggered threads as you back it off.

Let us know if that works.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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1995 Wrangler S / 2.5L / 5-Spd
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't remember the size or pitch of the bolts you need to pull the steering wheel, but if the bolts you're using are bending, I'd go to the hardware store and get some grade 8 hex head bolts and a corresponding number of flat washers. Before you head to the hardware store, soak the area in the center of the steering wheel where the shaft comes out with your favorite penetrating oil.
Put the nut back on the shaft before you set up the puller with the grade 8 bolts. Once you have as much torque on the puller as you think should pop the steering wheel loose, whack the top of the puller with a 3# hammer. The shock should pop it loose and having the nut on the shaft will clean up any buggered threads as you back it off.

Let us know if that works.

Good Luck, L.M.
Got it off! And got the new key cylinder installed. All good...until the next project. Thanks all for your input!
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Got it off! And got the new key cylinder installed. All good...until the next project. Thanks all for your input!
So what ended up working for you?
 

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1995 Wrangler S / 2.5L / 5-Spd
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So what ended up working for you?
I soaked it in PB blaster over night, then carefully/slowly used my impact driver to torque the bolts and the removal tool until it came loose. Took a lot of patience to get that thing off, crusted on there after almost 27 years.

Now that that's done I'm going to replace the tie rod, drag link, and steering stabilizer. I have all the parts ready to go. Any tips?
 

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1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0
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Tip....
Rent this tool from Autozone or O'Reillys and your removal will be simple. Use a hammer to tap it into place, oil the threads and take them off.

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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I soaked it in PB blaster over night, then carefully/slowly used my impact driver to torque the bolts and the removal tool until it came loose. Took a lot of patience to get that thing off, crusted on there after almost 27 years.

Now that that's done I'm going to replace the tie rod, drag link, and steering stabilizer. I have all the parts ready to go. Any tips?
Only mark the orientation of the wheel and pitman arm, and start soaking. To keep your alignment relatively close, Pull the entire steering link as one piece so you can set the new one up to as close to the exact same length before mount back on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Only mark the orientation of the wheel and pitman arm, and start soaking. To keep your alignment relatively close, Pull the entire steering link as one piece so you can set the new one up to as close to the exact same length before mount back on.
Ok everything came off and went back in pretty smoothly. Lots of PB blaster helped. One question about the new tie rod though. On the adjustment collar the black metal tab won’t come down any further and rest between the two tightening collars/bolts. The old one was almost pinched between them. Cause for concern?
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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Ok everything came off and went back in pretty smoothly. Lots of PB blaster helped. One question about the new tie rod though. On the adjustment collar the black metal tab won’t come down any further and rest between the two tightening collars/bolts. The old one was almost pinched between them. Cause for concern?
View attachment 4523443
I don't think it actually has anything to do with keeping anything in place or spinning out of adjustment. Maybe more of a travel stop or something to protect the bolts??? If your bolts are tight it shouldn't spin. You could drop an EMT clamp or something similar to serve as a stop if you are concerned.
Both of mine are between the clamp ears to some degree though.
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Just read through the FSM. There is no "bar" on any of the XJ or Commanche steering gear, and no pupose listed for it in the YJ section. Going out on a limb and say it falls into the Track Bar category as another Upgrade that serves very little purpose. I think you're safe. LOL
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just read through the FSM. There is no "bar" on any of the XJ or Commanche steering gear, and no pupose listed for it in the YJ section. Going out on a limb and say it falls into the Track Bar category as another Upgrade that serves very little purpose. I think you're safe. LOL
Hahaha awesome, thank you! Drove it today, much better and tighter. Didn't notice any bump steer.
 
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