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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I made a possible boo boo. 2013 JKUR. Stock e-locker, PO had reheated to 4.88.

In order to investigate a loose pinion, I needed to obviously take carrier out. I forgot to leave bearing cap bolts in to capture carrier. Plus I didn’t take pre-pics. Carrier, caps and shims came out into oil drain tub. The 2 shims were stacked and sitting next to driver’s side cap. The passenger side cap was on its own. Shims are .1125” and .1140”. Is it possible that they were both on one side??
 

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If they were aligned together and you needed to slide them apart then I'd say they came off the same side.
 
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If they were aligned together and you needed to slide them apart then I'd say they came off the same side.
^^^^^^^^ And just for backup, I agree.
And you DO know that the caps need to be in the same position they were, correct?
 
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Hmm , I’ve never seen a carrier with 2 shims on one side and nothing on the other from factory. Usually 1 perfectly matched shim per side.
However, if the gears had already been changed anything is possible and maybe even the cause of the pinion issue.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^^^^^^^^ And just for backup, I agree.
And you DO know that the caps need to be in the same position they were, correct?
Of course. Markings on the caps correspond to markings on housing
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Such a careless move on my part. But, I’m not so sure everything was set up properly by PO, so maybe this is good because I’m gonna do all the prescribed checking. I had done pass side seal and bearing a couple months ago. Took out drivers side for this and the bearings collar/keeper is all nutted up, like it was pounded on. SMH

Anyway. Every video I’ve seen with factory e-locker determines that no extra carrier shims are to be used. Is this because the carrier relative to the housing never changes? I understand where the factory determines the difference between carrier and housing, but it seems not all gear manufacturers have similar products.

Also, with carrier preload, is there a certain amount that proper carrier preload adds to the bearing preload at the yoke? I didn’t see anything in the manual but it’s a concept that spoken about in R&P manuals.
 

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When you change R&P it is likely that you have to change shims.
You need .010 (ten thousands) preload on the carrier bearings.
Your backlash and ink pattern both will determine whether or not you have the shims right. Too much shim on the drivers side (front diff) backlash will be sloppy. Too much shim on passenger side pushes ring into pinion and will be too tight.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Copy. I can make a case spreader if needed.

I just honed our the inner bearing for a setup bearing. Pinion shim I found under the bearing was a .050, pinion has 2.619 scribed on it with a bunch of zeros (could be just round scribe marks). I don’t have gage blocks or anything machined to do pinion depth off of the bearing cap surfaces with a depth mic. I can definitely get preload on pinion and check backlash.
 

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Copy. I can make a case spreader if needed.

I just honed our the inner bearing for a setup bearing. Pinion shim I found under the bearing was a .050, pinion has 2.619 scribed on it with a bunch of zeros (could be just round scribe marks). I don’t have gage blocks or anything machined to do pinion depth off of the bearing cap surfaces with a depth mic. I can definitely get preload on pinion and check backlash.


Pinion depth should be fine with the shims you had on it. To start anyway. You can ink it up and do a test to be sure before you press the new bearing on.
My pinion shim was 0.042 and total carrier shims were 0.255 with the OX Locker I was equal at 0.130 each side.
With Buddy’s Rubi E-locker we were at 0.132 and 0.125


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I ended up with .130 ring side and .125 pinion side. BL was .016. Added .020 shim on ring side, BL was at .003. Gear company said .006-.010 BL for used gears. I took one out, put on other side and BL was .010. Used a crush sleeve eliminator that I set up before messing with carrier. Love that thing. So easy.

All seems to be good. Nasty noises are gone. I had marked yoke/nut/pinion end with paint to check periodically if anything moves over time. Pinion has zero movement (unlike prior).

I think I’m gonna build 1-tons soon. I can weld pretty well, all major processes. Now it seems as though I’ve demystified regearing. Plus, the dude that built my 44’s for my TJ way back, is a phone call away and ready and willing to give up his knowledge. He owned a shop in Phoenix, now he’s back up in Seattle.

Thanks for all the info, everyone that contributed helped me immensely!
 
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