Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to make a review on my recent experience with CCFABs, both the good and the bad. I am not here to bash them, but to put out a review that is objective as possible. I had a couple problems with the fabrication, and several issues due to a lack of information available on these before ordering, so I wanted to post a review so people would know what things to specify when ordering. I just want everyone to have an accurate expectation of the fenders and corner armor. I also had issues with their customer service that I will cover below.

Shipping:
I placed the order on 01/26 for hoodline fenders, rear flares, and corner guards. I emailed Chris Dennis with CCF and was advised that they would ship Feb 2nd, but they did not ship out until Feb 11th. Then the rear corners and fenders were shipped Feb 18th. Keep this in mind when placing your order. It took exactly 1 month to receive my fenders and corners.
I tore my jeep apart as soon as the front fenders arrived anticipating the rears to arrive shortly faster, but I was wrong. Plan on having your rig down for some time. My understanding is that they make the items after the order is placed. It takes a bit longer, but gives you the opportunity to make changes if you want something different. (See Below)

Front fenders :
The fenders looked great other than a couple small imperfections. They bolted right up with no modification to the fender themselves. If you follow the instructions the install process is very straight forward and I had the first one on within 30-45 minutes. All of the welding looked great except for the underside where they only spot-welded the sheet metal to the tubing, but then again it isn't structural so it's not really important. Most companies do not weld it 100% so I wouldn't call this a negative, but more of a observation. The one think that I did not like about their instructions is that they advise to cut the last 11"; of the rain lip out from the top of the old fender. I cut originally per the instructions and realized how crappy that looks so on the other side I left in place it it made for a much cleaner install. It will not bolt to the front of the tub, but then again who cares.
Everything seemed to line up great, other than the bottom of the fender where it meets the body. I tried for an hour or so to get the fender to slide down far enough to go flush with the bottom of the tub, but no luck. Rock sliders cover this up anyway if you are running sliders so not a huge issue either. I later realized that if you were to get them to slide down then the hoodline will be off hy quite a bit.

These are called hoodlines, but in reality I would call them a modified hoodline. The fender does not bend inwards to the hood once it comes up. It runs parallel to the body for a bit and then turns and follows the hood. I assume it is done this way since the bend is easier, but if you are looking for a hoodline similar to a Genright this is not it. Does it look bad? No, but it isnt what I call a hoodline, so be sure you look at the pictures and make sure you like the bends before ordering.


Rear corner armor/ fenders.
I am combining this section because CCF does something that I have not seen before. They actually welded the corner armor and fenders together. Some may like this, and some may not. After my conversation with Chris is appears that if you order both they weld them together. If you order one or the other they bolt together. The website does not specify this, and I did not find out until they arrived at my door. You will want to be sure to specify what you want when you order. They do not mention anything about the option on the website.
I ran into several problems since they were welded together. First off you cannot do 2 tone paint or powder coat since the tape line would have to be on the weld line and you cannot get a nice line over the rough welds. I was planning on doing the corner armor gloss black powder coat so it would match the body, and the corner armor satin. Unfortunately once I received the armor those plans had to change. Secondly with the fender already mounted it causes problems when you go to cut the corners for rocker guards. Generally you can just tape the corner armor off and cut it to fit, and then bolt the fender over the top of the rocker and corner armor, In the case of CCF you have to cut around the fender, and actually remove the bracing at the bottom of the fender. In the event that you need to remove a rocker in the future you will have to completely remove the corner armor in order to remove the rocker. Once you remove the bracing you will have to reweld the tab in the bottom of the fender for bracing, and then drill and tap your rocker guards so you can bolt it down. If you don't run rocker armor then you will have a gap between the fender and the body. The lower part of the front of the fender was also wider than it should be so I had to cut part of it off to fit with the body. It should have been 3/16 off from the body based on how it comes down from the tub, but mine was more like 1/16"; off from the tub at the bottom and 3/16 off at the top. The fender placement also seemed to be off and left a large gap between the actual fender liner and the tube fenders. I would have preferred if the top of the fender was 1" ; lower, but that is just personal preference. Pic after it was trimmed up, and rewelded.


The wheel arch radius was off by as much as ¾ of an inch in places on both sides. On the front part the arch the corner armor actually extends ½ " past the body. 10 oclock to 1 oclock actually shows 1/4" of the body that is unprotected, and 1-2 oclock has up to 3/4"; of the armor sticking past the body. ( was able to trim this to match the 1/4" so it would look better and more uniform. The radius was not cut to line up with the body line. Some spots the tire will hit, and some the armor doesn't protect the body. Seems like this would be simple for CCF to correct on the laser drawings, but is difficult for an end user like myself to correct. If you are going to cut the tub and remove the fender liner then this will be a mute issue, but if you want to run the fender liner and not cut the tub it is something to consider. I ended up trimming the corner armor the best I could and running it.




The corner bend on the corner guard was off as well. It appears that they made multiple small bends in the middle, but on the first bend in either direction was quite drastic and pronounced. It leaves a space between the body and the armor. Enough space that i can see daylight throught it. I understand that this bend is complicated, and typically involves a multitude of bends in order to get it correct. It appears that they did far fewer bends and 2 drastic bends on either end in order to save time on bending them. The middle of the bend is too flat. The level of quality shows up. This causes the taillight area of the armor to bow out from the body when you put it on since the bend is not tight enough to fit the body line properly. With enough force and clamps I was able to get the drivers side to bolt down, but you will need large enough washers to keep the bolts from bending the body of the TJ. The passenger side corner was about the same, but it wouldn't bolt up without the use of a press to rebend the corner. The end of the armor by the gate hinge was 1/2+ off from the body and that was after doing everything I could to clamp it down. The notches around the gate hinges were also off a little. The top fit fine, but had a large space around the hinge. The lower cutout was super tight on the top of the hinge and needed some trimming to get it to fit. Not a very uniform fit.

[URL=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/Onebadho/media/IMG_20150319_174705803.jpg.html]


They also laser cut a CCF logo onto the armor. Normally not a problem for people, but in my case I had a dent in my body right where the logo was, and it would have showed up. I also believe that it would have held dirt which would have drove me mad so I had it welded up. On the TJ they put it on the bottom of the driver side corner armor. I asked Chris about it after I received it and he said they can relocate it, but I would recommend to see if they can just omit it all together. My concern about it was that it would trap dirt/mud.

The holes on the armor as not countersunk like most other armor. In fact the only company that I could find that doesn't countersink the holes is metalcloak. Personally I feel that button head bolts on armor look tacky and are begging to get hit, so I bought my own countersink bit from lowes (Irwin for $20.00), and countersunk all of the holes. If you are ok with running button head bolts you can ignore this, but if you want countersunk bolts be prepared to spend some time and money countersinking the bolt holes. I found that if you will "Pulse" the bit with some cutting oil the process went fairly quickly and saved the bit.

The armor was also bent in shipping and required the use of a press to get it straightened out. Do I feel this is CCF fault? Yes and no. It wasn't their fault that it was damaged, but the front part of the armor sticks out, and can easily be bent due to the lack of packaging. Both sides were bent.



When I went to paint these I had a hell of a time trying to remove the protective coating off the steel to keep it from rusting. The only thing that I found would take it off is a flap disc, but it would warp it. I use a DA sander with 80 grit and it barely scratched it. Ultimately they are going to have to be sand blasted in order to get a decent paint job so add this into the cost. Of you are going to have them powder coated then it's generally included, but if you decide to paint them yourself you are in for a surprise.

Hardware :
The fronts bolt up 100% with stock hardware so that was great, but the rears do not include hardware. So if you buy them plan on spending $40-50.00 in stainless hardware of various lengths. I ended up being able to pick up 3/4", 2", and 2 1/2 countersunk bolts from a local supplier, but I still need a couple 4" bolts that they said they couldn't get. This may pose a problem if I cannot located 4" Allen countersunk bolts. The location of a couple of the bolt holes should have been moved to make mounting easier. There was one hole in the rear that was directly on a spot that could never have been bolted.

All in all I would recommend the front fenders as long as you understand what they will look like finished, and that they are definitely not genright level of quality, but they do not carry a genrick price tag. The rears however are a different story. Mine may have been a exception to the typical work. The bends between the two sides looks different so there is some variance in quality there. The wheel radius I would imagine is based on their solidworks drawings so that may be the typical wheel well cutout, but I am hoping that they can update the drawings for a more accurate cut. Aside from that the rest of the problems were based on a lack of information when ordering. If the radius/ bends were correct and I could have had the option of welded vs. bolted fenders I would have loved them. The countersunk hardware and bits is a small problem and more of an annoyance than anything.

When you are looking at the financial side of things be sure to also plan on $70.00+ in hardware and countersink bit if you want to make the bolts countersunk. If not you may be able to get away with button head bolts for less. You either need to have them powder coated or at least sandblasted ~50.00. If you receive armor like mine and plan to run rockers plan on some welder time of you dont own one, and maybe some time on a press ~50.00. So for the grand total over 700.00 you can go get genright corner guards and flares. They come countersunk with hardware, bolt on flares, and much higher quality.

Customer service:
I get that problems happen, and bends dont come out right. Maybe someone used some old drawings for the cutouts. Things do happen, and that is where customer service comes into play. I sent Chris an email as soon as I received the corners and asked to return them. He did approve the return, but after looking at the shipping cost I was better off to just scrap them. I went ahead and had some local shops start working on them welding up holes, resending the bends, and ultimately had more money, time, and still don't feel like I had received what I paid for. I contacted Chris again to see what could be done and no help was offered. Given that frustration i made original review, and have since updated it a couple times. Over the last couple months I have emailed chris and used the ccf contact page in order to try and get some help from them. 3 weeks ago they offered to refund my money for the defective parts, but I still have not received a refund. I have emailed them twice in the last week and not a word back. With that being said it is apparent that they dont care. I understand people are busy, but it has been 3 weeks!!!! Spend your money elsewhere. I stand by what I said in the first review I had. If you want cheap and bad quality go Smittybuilt. If you want quality go Genright. Stay away from ccf.

 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top