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Discussion Starter #1
Sooo a while back I put a 6 3/4" kicker in my factory console box w the factory amp and it worked quite well but I wanted more power so I pulled it apart and took the next step...

I removed the factory amp and cut a mdf patch for the hole... then looked up the wiring for the factory sub.... turns out that the factory harness can be unplugged from the stock amp circuit board.... I cut the 4 rear input wires and the amp turn on wire 2" from the board bundled up the rest in case I want to return to stock some day... would be 5 splices inside the sub box...

I then spliced onto the inputs and turn on and along w the speaker wire to the sub routed them along existing wiring up into the dash and over the the left side of the steering column... I'm going to mount my amp to a plate attached to the bolts on the left side of the brake booster.... (might not work for a manual trans jeep)....more to come
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Was a little worried that the sub might hit the grill so I used 3 1/4" nuts on the screws to space it out just in case
 

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The amp isn't installed yet... it sounded pretty good with the stock amp... I'm not expecting the mirrors to shake or anything but should be just a little better than the stock amp.... I kind of have my doubts about how much the plastic sub box can handle without distortion.... may eventually end up building an mdf box to replace it but for now I think this will work nicely... hopefully get the amp in today...

I installed polk db 6502 components in the sound bar/pods and they sound amazing to the point that even tho I have new kenwoods in the dash I ordered polk db 5252's and select increments pods for the to replace them....
I also might someday install a 5 channel amp to power everything.
 

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Wrapping up now.... more details and pics coming BUT I'd say the new amp gives me about double what the old amp did!
 

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I changed my mind on amp location.... i used two zip ties to mount it to the ac duct under the steering column.... much easier access for tuning if needed plus it fits perfectly and was a much easier place to mount it with less wiring needed. As a bonus that locatiom would work for someone with a manual whereas my previous choice wouldn't have.

The power wire is routed to the stock amp fuse in the fuse box.... the wire feeding that fuse from the factory is plenty big but the wire coming out is very small maybe 18g... i removed the factory wire and terminal without damaging it and taped it up. Then I robbed a terminal from a cherokee I'm parting out and soldered a 12g wire to it and routed it to my new amp... then the ground lead on the amp was the perfect length to reach an existing ground under the dash to the right of the steering column. The signal, speaker, and turn on wires were all together coming from the console up to the amp... Normally I refuse to shorten a pigtail so that it can easily be reused in the future but I wanted a clean install so I staggered the butt connectors to fit better in the wire loom.

I pulled it all back apart and wrapped everything with spiral loom and replaced it... finally I ziptied it all to existing wire runs that I had followed from the start.... the power wired follow the vacuum hoses on the front of the heater box.....

The whole shebang appears and functions very close to a factory installation except much better sound

Ignore the disaster in my ign wiring.... previous owner had some monkey install an alarm and a lojack system... exactly the reason I do my own work... I pulled it out and made one temp splice.... in the future I'll be installing a remote start and alarm of my own and will permanantly repair the damage done by the 'professional-
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The wire seen coming out of the fuse box is mopar's idea... it's for the add on hardtop harness
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep still loving it.....

Thx
 
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