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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 jku with a 2.5” rock krawler lift. I want to get the axle back centered with the wheel well as it’s shifted towards the front of the Jeep with the lift. How do I go about accomplishing this? I’m sure adjustable control arms are the way to do it but does that require a longer driveshaft? Or is the stock driveshaft long enough
 

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I moved mine back for 37's and am still on the stock rear shaft with no issues.

You don't want it centered when it is just sitting there, essentially you want it centered at full flex -- which means it should still be a little closer to the rock rail than not, but still far enough that you have clearance there. As the suspension compresses the tire moves up and back due to the angle of the arms. If it's dead center while sitting it's going to be too far back when flexed.

I wish I still had my calculations I used, but essentially what I did was push the rear about 5/8"-3/4" back and then adjusted the upper arms to compensate for the driveline angle. Pinch seams and rock rails are already cut too so that helps in not going too far back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have control arm drop brackets currently and I’m wondering how that’ll work when I go to put in adjustable control arms? Obviously the drop brackets can change the mounting position to correct the caster depending on lift height and also to correct the angles. If I go with adjustable control arms that are longer to begin with would I have to keep them on the lowest setting on the drop brackets to make sure that it doesn’t over do it with the caster adjustment? I’m asking because obviously the stock arms must be shorter than an adjustable arm at its smallest setting meant for a 3” lifted Jeep
 

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Centering the axle requires adjustment of the track bar. Either adjustable track bar or correction bracket. A 2.5in lift should not require you to move the rear axle back. If you are contacting the pinch seam with the tires it is time to trim the pinch seams. Axle should be centered when the Jeep is sitting on the ground - not full stuffed or full flexed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Centering the axle requires adjustment of the track bar. Either adjustable track bar or correction bracket. A 2.5in lift should not require you to move the rear axle back. If you are contacting the pinch seam with the tires it is time to trim the pinch seams. Axle should be centered when the Jeep is sitting on the ground - not full stuffed or full flexed.
I have a correction bracket in the rear. It’s not contacting anything it’s just a lot further forward than I feel like it should be. Yes this is as it sits on the ground not stuffed or flexed
 

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As mentioned, check out the axle at full flex. The axle travels in an arc. So the further down from stock location, the further forward it moves. Here is a 2.5" lift fully extended vs stuffed with 35s. Looking at it, might be able to push the axle back about 1/2" to center it better, but not worth the $$ in my book.
 

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I have a 2.5” Rock Krawler lift with both upper and adjustable control arms. The rear axle is centered, and I still have the original rear driveshaft. 4 years on, plenty of wheeling, zero problem.

 

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Here is a picture of how it sits right now. I’m just thinking it needs to come back a little. Not a lot.
Does look like a bit more than a 2.5.... Either way, a set of rear adjustable upper and lower control arms is needed to achieve your goal.

Look at the Core 4x4 Tier 3 control arms... Fantastic at any price but even better at their price. You can even PM Allen at @AOR to see if he has any discounts available.

https://www.allensoffroad.com/suspension-systems-lift-kits/Core-4X4-Control-Arms/Wrangler-JK-2007-Present-Core4x4/Core4X4-TIER-THREE-JK/JK-2007-Present-Rear-Adj-Control-Arm-Set-T3

As mentioned, check out the axle at full flex. The axle travels in an arc. So the further down from stock location, the further forward it moves. Here is a 2.5" lift fully extended vs stuffed with 35s. Looking at it, might be able to push the axle back about 1/2" to center it better, but not worth the $$ in my book.
Agree... Typically, I have found the the lowers need to be about 1/2 longer than stock and the uppers come in about 5/8" longer than stock, although you set the uppers to have 0° pinion... This gets you close to centered at full compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is a picture of how it sits right now. I’m just thinking it needs to come back a little. Not a lot.
Does look like a bit more than a 2.5.... Either way, a set of rear adjustable upper and lower control arms is needed to achieve your goal.

Look at the Core 4x4 Tier 3 control arms... Fantastic at any price but even better at their price. You can even PM Allen at @AOR to see if he has any discounts available.

https://www.allensoffroad.com/suspension-systems-lift-kits/Core-4X4-Control-Arms/Wrangler-JK-2007-Present-Core4x4/Core4X4-TIER-THREE-JK/JK-2007-Present-Rear-Adj-Control-Arm-Set-T3

As mentioned, check out the axle at full flex. The axle travels in an arc. So the further down from stock location, the further forward it moves. Here is a 2.5" lift fully extended vs stuffed with 35s. Looking at it, might be able to push the axle back about 1/2" to center it better, but not worth the $$ in my book.
Agree... Typically, I have found the the lowers need to be about 1/2 longer than stock and the uppers come in about 5/8" longer than stock, although you set the uppers to have 0° pinion... This gets you close to centered at full compression.
It’s a 2.5” lift. It does seem it has given me a little more lift and 2.5” but I feel part of that is because I’m not running a spare tire on the back.
 

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Or leave it alone. As mentioned, the axle travels rearward as the suspension compresses. Most likely it'll be nice and centered when it's at full bump. If it's not rubbing at full extension, it's fine.
 
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