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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, I got the irritating P025 or something like that saying my oil pressure switch is bad, so I am going to change it, but because the dang intake has to be removed to get to the little F'Ker I figure I might as well do the F'ing gaskets and what not, which now has me looking at that evil Oil cooler and thinking well I am there I might as well deal with that 'tard and its gaskets also as I don't want to have a need to open things back up again....once is already bad enough.....


anyways can I use an oil cooler for a 2018+? are there any revisions or new part numers that supersede the one I might have on my 2012 (pretty sure its an early rev anyways)? I want to get an updated unit and be done with this so I can have another 115+ trouble free miles if able....anyways thanks again for the help!
 

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I wouldn't do it. 13 and older is the 5184294AE (no updates). 14-16 is the 68105583AF (began as an AA) and 17-19 is the 68310865AB (no updates). If they were really interchangeable, they'd all be using the 68310865AB. It'd be nice to think the only real change in 2014 was the new oil filter, but they did change other things with the engine in 14 as well, so it's hard to say that switching to the 583AF would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well that is a good thing, as I had been noticing all things were lining up, I think I may consider having a shop do this one as I don't want to mess up especially if I am pulling something that involves both oil and coolant.....how hard of a time am i looking at if I decide to tackle this my self?
 

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No real special tools needed. There are lots of U tubes on it. Might as well do the spark plugs. I'll probably do mine myself if it ever leaks.
 

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No real special tools needed. There are lots of U tubes on it. Might as well do the spark plugs. I'll probably do mine myself if it ever leaks.
I agree, I would do it my self as well.
Definitely change the plugs while you're in there.
 

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David has the best video out there...

Whether to upgrade cooler - you can upgrade to 2014 cooler which is cheaper.


Part 1.


Part 2.

 

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How hard would it have been to mount the stupid thing on the firewall. Damn bean counters.
 
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How hard would it have been to mount the stupid thing on the firewall. Damn bean counters.
A better ideawould be an aluminum housing with plastic cap like GM, Ford, Toyota, Maserati and others.

Remote mounting introduces other failure points like hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks, I have already decided to upgrade to the '14+ unit as it makes more sense to me to do so, I just hate that this is turning into a spend more money project as I want to upgrade the oil cooler, and at the same time it was all designed to where it is best to hit other things even if they are not needing replacement like the spark plugs and/or coils....UUUG!!!!! I am guessing the fuel injectors are some where near by also.....uug
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I just ordered the Oil cooler (the 14+ revision) and the gaskets for the intake manifold so yea....next to get will be the spark plugs possibly...may hold on those until I can pull a plug and see how bad it is and go from there...
 

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You can pull a plug from the right head and see how bad it is. But if you have 60+K i would swap them.
Bad plugs weaken the coils and plugs are cheaper to replace than coils.
 

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Going from early to 14 oil cooler, remember that you will now need to buy 14 oil filters. 13's won't work. They'll fit but they won't work. You'll know because you'll have an oil light immediately. (I had a 13 and a 14 JKU and learned by doing)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Going from early to 14 oil cooler, remember that you will now need to buy 14 oil filters. 13's won't work. They'll fit but they won't work. You'll know because you'll have an oil light immediately. (I had a 13 and a 14 JKU and learned by doing)
the 13 filters should have a "snap in" (into oil filter holder) piece, where the 14+ filters IIRC work by snapping to the filter cap piece (i could be wrong...)
 

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the 13 filters should have a "snap in" piece, where the 14+ filters IIRC work by snapping to the filter cap piece (i could be wrong...)
Filters are different (new one snaps to the cap). I would suggest DIY oil changes.
One rookie with a 15/16 socket and 1/2 breaker bar and housing might crack again :)
Same efect if they forget to lube the O-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Filters are different (new one snaps to the cap). I would suggest DIY oil changes.
One rookie with a 15/16 socket and 1/2 breaker bar and housing might crack again :)
Same efect if they forget to lube the O-ring.
ok then I was correct :D lol I am honestly dreading this process.....UUUUG.....I wish I had a fellow Jeeper in the CT area that would be willing to help (yes I would be willing to go against my rules and buy them a 6 pack, or what ever food they want with in reason of course...) does anyone have a list of needed tools? I know a zip gun with a 7mm socket is needed (IIRC?)
 

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ok then I was correct :D lol I am honestly dreading this process.....UUUUG.....I wish I had a fellow Jeeper in the CT area that would be willing to help (yes I would be willing to go against my rules and buy them a 6 pack, or what ever food they want with in reason of course...) does anyone have a list of needed tools? I know a zip gun with a 7mm socket is needed (IIRC?)
When are you planning on doing this? I should be back in CT by mid month. I’m in Newtown.

Mostly what you need is 8, 10 and 13 mm sockets and a long extension if I recall correctly.

Also since you’ll have to remove the lower intake, make sure you buy both upper and lower gaskets!

—> you know what? Start making a list and share here. Other members may add to it and this will benefit the whole forum.

One thing I can think of: a way to remove the oil that may have leaked between the heads. I’m thinking a cheap turkey baster would do. Also rags and brake cleaner spray.
 
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