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Hey everyone,
I decided to put a chevy small block in my 61’ cj5. I know what motor mounts to get and was originally planning on ordering in a transmission adapting kit to hook the new motor up to the stock 3 speed manual BW. However I am wondering if it would cheaper/easier to just get a chevy c10 manual tranny that would bolt right to the motor and then fabricating or finding mounts to mount the chevy transmission to the Jeep. Have anyone done the full power train swap that can offer any advice? Tranny/transfercase/drive shaft etc. I’m open to all opinions and help.

Thanks!
 

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You should really go over to the Novak adapters site and look at their knowledge base. Theres too much to discuss in the way of options but I'll give you the short answer. You cannot use the GM transfer case in your Jeep because the rear dif is offset. Your best bet is to mate the factory Dana 18 transfer case to a GM transmission. Since it's an early short fendered CJ5 I would suggest a four speed and not an auto due to length. Your rear driveshaft length is crucial on a CJ5. You want it as long as you can get it. I did a GM NP435 in my 65 CJ5a SBC project years ago, however I would suggest a SM465 Muncie box, since theyre tougher and much easier to find. All of the big truck four speeds work well, depending on your engine of choice and input shaft length of the transmission. My current CJ7 has a SBC mated to a Ford T19. I did this to get the strength and all four gears are synchroed unlike all of the other four speed boxes available. Most T19's have a 4:1 ratio first so theyre not that great for a low crawl range, however there were some built with 5.1:1 which is what I have and even rarer are 6.32:1 boxes used in big truck applications.
 

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Hey everyone,
I decided to put a chevy small block in my 61’ cj5. I know what motor mounts to get and was originally planning on ordering in a transmission adapting kit to hook the new motor up to the stock 3 speed manual BW. However I am wondering if it would cheaper/easier to just get a chevy c10 manual tranny that would bolt right to the motor and then fabricating or finding mounts to mount the chevy transmission to the Jeep. Have anyone done the full power train swap that can offer any advice? Tranny/transfercase/drive shaft etc. I’m open to all opinions and help.

Thanks!
I did a full Chevy swap in my Jeep, Cost me a lot of money, I used Novaks radiator for my set up. But everything else is custom more or less. I think i used some of M.O.R.E.'s GM motor mount brackets then fabb'd up some custom mounts.

The easiest thing to do would be to run a TH350 and not a manual transmission. You are going to have to buy a wilwood universal clutch pedal, and Novaks CJ slave cylinder or some other aftermarket internal or external slave cylinder. There is a lot of planning and thinking that goes into this.

You may have to cut out your transmission tunnel and fab a new one.

You will need new drive shafts, all Chevy yokes are bigger than Jeep 1/4 ton yokes. What is your budget? Are you going EFI or Carb? Again what is your budget? I think the swap is going to cost you like 6-10k once its all said and done for you to do it yourself. You literally need new everything. Headers, distributor, driveshafts, drivetrain, linkage, shifters, carb, fuel pump, electric fan, alternator, blah blah blah. The list goes on and on. Forget the big stuff. All the small shit is going to nickel and dime you to death. I am not trying to discourage you, just making you think about what has to be done.


I could swap a 350, transmission and T-case into your CJ in a weekend but it would take a few weeks minimum to button everything up and make it right at the shop.

I do these swaps at the shop I work at about twice a month and they don't take me very long to physically fit everything in place. You are probably looking at 8-16+ hours of shop time for me to pull a drive train and fit a new one in a car. Depending on the vehicle and the drive-train. All the stuff that comes after is the difficult part for me.

You need to figure out what your drivetrain combo is and go from there. Keep it as short as possible, SM465/NP305 is a good choice. TH350 with a NP203 or NP205 isnt bad either. NV4500 is completely out of the question. You wont have enough room for your rear driveshaft. It will never work.

Good luck. ill be here if you have questions
 

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1. Theres too much to discuss in the way of options but I'll give you the short answer.

2. You cannot use the GM transfer case in your Jeep because the rear dif is offset. Your best bet is to mate the factory Dana 18 transfer case to a GM transmission.

3. Since it's an early short fendered CJ5 I would suggest a four speed and not an auto due to length.

4. Your rear driveshaft length is crucial on a CJ5. You want it as long as you can get it.

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1. I agree, there are a billion questions and answers. You need to do some research.

2. Could swap out rear ends for an AMC20 in later model CJ's

3. a TH350 is just 3/4 of an inch longer than a SM465 because of the adapter that goes on the end of a SM465.

4. This... Absolutely Crucial


I know I am kind of throwing a curve ball here. But have you thought of putting in Chevy's V6 that they make in their newer vehicles. Its basically an LS with 6 cylinders. I think they are a great option for earlier CJ's. The shorter engine allows you to move it forward giving you more room for your driveshafts, etc. Its more expensive for the engine (especially is you get an aluminum one) but IMHO it is a far better option.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey everyone, thanks for the replies. I actually ended up doing a stock tranny rebuild/transfer case rebuild, and then getting all the adapters i needed from Novak to put the CSB in the CJ. I was through most of the process until I sent the heads out to get redone and they decided to say that a rod cup was broken and it would cost them close to a grand to do the job and a couple hundred just in getting the broken cup out (which is BS in my opinion). When I went to pick up the heads after denying the service 1k bill, they had the broken cup in a box along with everything else so someone was bs-ing me for a bigger bill. Anyway, now I’m looking for a new set of heads to slap on this old gal and then have to do the wiring and button it up. Taking longer than I thought but we are getting there. Thanks again for the suggestions
 

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Did you read that the same as I did? I couldn't think of any other type of "cup" in the cylinder head. He couldn't have been talking about the rocker studs.
something is definitely not right even rocker studs are easy to replace it costs about 90.00 in machine work to have them pulled towers cut down and tapped for screw in studs, you can even just pull one tap it and install cheater stud.

I was thinking valve seat but even that is easy repair. 5 minutes you can set it up guide and seat machine cut it out, pound in new seat and it is ready for valve job 15 minutes later take about hour to change them all.
 

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They are not part of the head you just replace them.
Did you read that the same as I did? I couldn't think of any other type of "cup" in the cylinder head. He couldn't have been talking about the rocker studs.

Sorry I have been MIA due to work and the holiday and sorry for the confusion in my wording. What was the rocker ball not cup. One of the rocker balls had broken off in the head and I was told that the process to remove it/fix the issue would be close to a thousand dollars. When I went to pick them up, and pay for the work already done, the broken rocker ball was already in a box with all the other disassembled parts and was apparently not “a bitch to get out.” There was no way I was paying a grand for a simple head and valve job when I could get new loaded heads for that price. I attached some pictures to show you what they gave me back, disassembled parts, with my heads.
 

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Those are the old seals, retainers and nuts that hold your rockers down.

My uncle owns an engine shop, spoiler alert. He makes the majority of his money off head work. Mostly because in his old age he prefers to do only head work because its fairly easy and pays good.

1k more or less depending on work for head work sounds kind of standard for SBC heads. New valves ground to match fresh ground seats, testing spring pressures, clearances, shims, decking, seals, retainers, glass beading, blah blah blah.

Maybe he wanted to charge you a couple hundred bucks because he was going to put new rockers on the heads. I have no idea, i wasn't there or in your shoes.
 

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you did the right thing not paying, stock heads are about 150.00 each to have rebuilt. even if a stud was broken off that would only be 95.00 repair to have it setup up in guide and seat machine to drill it out and install new one. you can buy new vortec heads and upgrade 40hp more for 375.00 a head brand new out of box or just pick up set of remanned heads.
 

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I have an 83CJ7 with 350 SBC. Got it last year, previous owner had stock manual trans (t4) and Dana 300 TC. I replaced trans with SM465, went with Novak adapter to keep the Dana 300. Because of trans swap, I had to find new bell housing. At this time I also went with new clutch disc and pressure plate from Summit Racing. I also opted for a new American Powertrain hydraulic clutch and through out bearing kit to replace all the mechanical linkage. With the length of the old trans and new trans, i didnt need a new rear driveshaft. But because it was stock, I opted for a new Adams rear driveshaft. Kept stock front driveshaft. I also had to replace the trans tunnel cover.
 
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