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Garbage engine and cooling system gave out at 60K only way Chrysler got out of the class action lawsuit must have been to fix all the claimant's problems or to buy their silence.

2016 Jeep Wrangler JKU with 60119 miles at discovery of issues by dealership, Jeep was purchased new from dealer. Chrysler was contacted by dealership and myself to cover maintenance on blown head engine head gaskets following inspection. Feb20 I noticed excessive vapor coming out of my exhaust on my way home, I checked my coolant and oil to see if there were any problems finding low coolant levels however it was still within normal range. Not having any other problems or temperature change I parked my car at home. No more than an additional 3 miles were driven. The following day I contacted a dealerships to check for maintenance and was advised to bring it in if derivable. My vehicle was driven to World Jeep in Shrewsberry NJ where it was determined my head gaskets are damaged and a repair was necessary. The dealership recommended the additional replacement of the radiator which Chrysler was informed of and discussed terms for covering the repair of the vehicle as the failure occurred right at warranty. Following the maintenance and repair I drove my vehicle home and submitted the paid bills which a Chrysler rep had discussed for payment. I found the engine was still having a problem with air in the radiator/coolant line and immediately took my vehicle back to the dealership for a coolant purge. during inspection the Chrysler master mechanic noticed the main coolant fan was not operating as expected. The main coolant fan operation was intermittent which would have caused a long term overheating as the root cause failure of the head gasket which was to determined by the Chrysler facility to have been failing over the last 10,000 miles. Chrysler was contacted and approved maintenance as with the other failed items. Following replacement I drove my vehicle home attempting to drive it later the next day when I found my vehicle unable to start. I contacted World Jeep again and was able to start my vehicle and drive it to the dealership for maintenance inspection. Dealership found gasket installed was defective, the heater core was clogged unable to provide heat in the cab and the engine had a knocking noise. Chrysler was contacted to recommend course of action which is the replacement of the engine. APR20 Chrysler has changed case managers 4 times and has been difficult to receive a response back by myself or the jeep dealership. Chrysler is now refusing to cover any of the work they had previously agreed to help cover and are only willing to assist with 50% of the repair costs of the engine replacement. This is my 3rd Jeep wrangler and I am unable receive appropriate assistance from Chrysler/Jeep for a failed component that caused catastrophe damage over a long period of time only to be noticed at the end of my warranty. Chrysler has switched case managers and told conflicting information with a limited response for a problem that has occurred in multiple jeep wranglers and is not an uncommon problem
 

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Garbage engine and cooling system gave out at 60K only way Chrysler got out of the class action lawsuit must have been to fix all the claimant's problems or to buy their silence.

2016 Jeep Wrangler JKU with 60119 miles at discovery of issues by dealership, Jeep was purchased new from dealer. Chrysler was contacted by dealership and myself to cover maintenance on blown head engine head gaskets following inspection. Feb20 I noticed excessive vapor coming out of my exhaust on my way home, I checked my coolant and oil to see if there were any problems finding low coolant levels however it was still within normal range. Not having any other problems or temperature change I parked my car at home. No more than an additional 3 miles were driven. The following day I contacted a dealerships to check for maintenance and was advised to bring it in if derivable. My vehicle was driven to World Jeep in Shrewsberry NJ where it was determined my head gaskets are damaged and a repair was necessary. The dealership recommended the additional replacement of the radiator which Chrysler was informed of and discussed terms for covering the repair of the vehicle as the failure occurred right at warranty. Following the maintenance and repair I drove my vehicle home and submitted the paid bills which a Chrysler rep had discussed for payment. I found the engine was still having a problem with air in the radiator/coolant line and immediately took my vehicle back to the dealership for a coolant purge. during inspection the Chrysler master mechanic noticed the main coolant fan was not operating as expected. The main coolant fan operation was intermittent which would have caused a long term overheating as the root cause failure of the head gasket which was to determined by the Chrysler facility to have been failing over the last 10,000 miles. Chrysler was contacted and approved maintenance as with the other failed items. Following replacement I drove my vehicle home attempting to drive it later the next day when I found my vehicle unable to start. I contacted World Jeep again and was able to start my vehicle and drive it to the dealership for maintenance inspection. Dealership found gasket installed was defective, the heater core was clogged unable to provide heat in the cab and the engine had a knocking noise. Chrysler was contacted to recommend course of action which is the replacement of the engine. APR20 Chrysler has changed case managers 4 times and has been difficult to receive a response back by myself or the jeep dealership. Chrysler is now refusing to cover any of the work they had previously agreed to help cover and are only willing to assist with 50% of the repair costs of the engine replacement. This is my 3rd Jeep wrangler and I am unable receive appropriate assistance from Chrysler/Jeep for a failed component that caused catastrophe damage over a long period of time only to be noticed at the end of my warranty. Chrysler has switched case managers and told conflicting information with a limited response for a problem that has occurred in multiple jeep wranglers and is not an uncommon problem
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 

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Well... I have been smelling the coolant when hot for the past 2 months so I guess it is time for a radiator swap. I also plan on adding the Mishimoto MMCFK-JK-12BK Coolant Filter Kit and reverse flushing the heater core with a garden hose with city water first then with a submersible utility pump and distilled water to clear out the city water. any recommendations on what else to change out while I have it apart?
 

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Well... I have been smelling the coolant when hot for the past 2 months so I guess it is time for a radiator swap. I also plan on adding the Mishimoto MMCFK-JK-12BK Coolant Filter Kit and reverse flushing the heater core with a garden hose with city water first then with a submersible utility pump and distilled water to clear out the city water. any recommendations on what else to change out while I have it apart?
Some may say the thermostat.
 

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Some may say the thermostat.
Check your head gasket if you're smelling coolant in the exhaust then you most likely have a leak from your radiator going into your engine. Smelling exhaust is only a symptom of a larger problem from your radiator it doesn't necessarily point to your radiator as the cause of smelling coolant in your exhaust.
 

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Check your head gasket if you're smelling coolant in the exhaust then you most likely have a leak from your radiator going into your engine. Smelling exhaust is only a symptom of a larger problem from your radiator it doesn't necessarily point to your radiator as the cause of smelling coolant in your exhaust.
It’s up front under the hood
 

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Just change the heater core. Don't waste your time and effort flushing it. I swapped in a new one yesterday. Was quick and easy. Flushing won't remove the buildup inside the OEM core.

My heat is working great.

I replaced all the OEM coolant too with non-Mopar coolant. No more clogging issues.
 

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Well... I have been smelling the coolant when hot for the past 2 months so I guess it is time for a radiator swap. I also plan on adding the Mishimoto MMCFK-JK-12BK Coolant Filter Kit and reverse flushing the heater core with a garden hose with city water first then with a submersible utility pump and distilled water to clear out the city water. any recommendations on what else to change out while I have it apart?
It may not be the rad, could be the plastic crossover tube. Dorman has an aluminum crossover. Maybe Dorman will do the same with the oil cooler.

I would replace the overpriced dealer only crap coolant with Prestone Coreguard, had I of kept my JK, that was my plan.

 

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Just got my replacement Mopar radiator in the mail from Quadratec. Gonna have to wait for the back ordered hoses to ship so I can replace those while I'm in there. Never had to replace a radiator on previous vehicles so hopefully this isn't too difficult of a job.
 

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Just got my replacement Mopar radiator in the mail from Quadratec. Gonna have to wait for the back ordered hoses to ship so I can replace those while I'm in there. Never had to replace a radiator on previous vehicles so hopefully this isn't too difficult of a job.
David Pike aka MotorCity Mechanic has an excellent video with many short cuts.
 

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Following, and I am the proud owner of a recently bought certified preowned 2017 JKU Sahara with ~32K on the clock...my first Jeep ever. Now I am curious to know if FCA bothered to take this issue into consideration when the vehicle was reconditioned. I've gone through it thoroughly and it's in great shape, but is there a range of parts numbers I can look for that might indicate things like the radiator or heads were replaced recently?
 

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Following, and I am the proud owner of a recently bought certified preowned 2017 JKU Sahara with ~32K on the clock...my first Jeep ever. Now I am curious to know if FCA bothered to take this issue into consideration when the vehicle was reconditioned. I've gone through it thoroughly and it's in great shape, but is there a range of parts numbers I can look for that might indicate things like the radiator or heads were replaced recently?
Yes, some have this issue, but most don’t. If your not low on coolant, or see a leak, then I wouldn’t worry about it.
Welcome to the Forum!
 

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Following, and I am the proud owner of a recently bought certified preowned 2017 JKU Sahara with ~32K on the clock...my first Jeep ever. Now I am curious to know if FCA bothered to take this issue into consideration when the vehicle was reconditioned. I've gone through it thoroughly and it's in great shape, but is there a range of parts numbers I can look for that might indicate things like the radiator or heads were replaced recently?
Great looking JKUS

It might be helpful if you looked into two things. Check your radiator for any signs of previous leaking like dried pink residue underneath the radiator, on the thermostat housing as well as at the top driver side corner. A lot of us are experiencing leaks at the top driver side of the radiator. I'm leaking here but also leaking at the recovery tank tube that connects to the top of the radiator near the cap.

The second thing you may want to look into is the oil cooler housing. There is a separate thread on this so i would suggest reading through it completely. Cliff notes is to remove the engine cover by lifting it off, then taking a flashlight and looking down into the valley to see if you have an oil puddle. if you can see the part number on the side of the housing you'll want to see what version you have. The last two letters at the end of the part number are the key. Version AA is the oldest and had a ton of issues, version AF and AG are the most recent I believe.
 

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Yes, some have this issue, but most don’t. If your not low on coolant, or see a leak, then I wouldn’t worry about it.
Welcome to the Forum!
Great looking JKUS

It might be helpful if you looked into two things. Check your radiator for any signs of previous leaking like dried pink residue underneath the radiator, on the thermostat housing as well as at the top driver side corner. A lot of us are experiencing leaks at the top driver side of the radiator. I'm leaking here but also leaking at the recovery tank tube that connects to the top of the radiator near the cap.

The second thing you may want to look into is the oil cooler housing. There is a separate thread on this so i would suggest reading through it completely. Cliff notes is to remove the engine cover by lifting it off, then taking a flashlight and looking down into the valley to see if you have an oil puddle. if you can see the part number on the side of the housing you'll want to see what version you have. The last two letters at the end of the part number are the key. Version AA is the oldest and had a ton of issues, version AF and AG are the most recent I believe.
Thanks for the welcome and the tips! This JKUS was super clean inside and out when I got it and I've driven maybe 40-miles so far with no noticeable odors or problems but I'll keep an eye on things. I am really looking forward driving this awesome machine the way it's meant to be driven, naked and offroad, but everything's closed off in my neck of the woods right now. Hopefully the situation improves soon, for everyone. In the meantime, I have a few upgrades in mind to help pass the time. :)
 

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Same parts, so the same likelihood of the problem showing up at some point. Fewer 2018s on the road (not a full year of production) so I don't know if any have showed up in this thread yet, and maybe 2018s and low-mile older years just haven't gone through enough heating/cooling metal/plastic expansion cycles to create failures yet.

@that_dude @YnotAJeep @maitoy Well, I have a 5/2018 RECON with 17,000 miles...I just lost my heat UNLESS I turn the knob all the way to the right (max temp) on the auto temp control unit. Then I get heat, but ANY backing off from it yields room temp or colder temp. It's an automatic, WITH auto control temps.
LOTS of reading brought me here and other forums, with maybe a 1) dealer re-flash to re-calibrate the blend door (cheap$$), 2) busted actuator blend door (cheap$$) 3) busted auto temp unit (cheap$$), 4) clogged heater core(cheap$$), or 5) GULP! busted heater core(nightmare$$$).
We'll see. Taking it to the dealer next Wednesday at 11 am for a look-see. I bought it used October 2019 as a CPO so we'll see.
I'll follow up here, but man, scary. My buddy has a Land Cruiser with 370k miles. No issues. Yep, exactly: **** him!:D
 

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@that_dude @YnotAJeep @maitoy Well, I have a 5/2018 RECON with 17,000 miles...I just lost my heat UNLESS I turn the knob all the way to the right (max temp) on the auto temp control unit. Then I get heat, but ANY backing off from it yields room temp or colder temp. It's an automatic, WITH auto control temps.
LOTS of reading brought me here and other forums, with maybe a 1) dealer re-flash to re-calibrate the blend door (cheap$$), 2) busted actuator blend door (cheap$$) 3) busted auto temp unit (cheap$$), 4) clogged heater core(cheap$$), or 5) GULP! busted heater core(nightmare$$$).
We'll see. Taking it to the dealer next Wednesday at 11 am for a look-see. I bought it used October 2019 as a CPO so we'll see.
I'll follow up here, but man, scary. My buddy has a Land Cruiser with 370k miles. No issues. Yep, exactly: **** him!:D
I haven’t had an issue with my heat. I probably will flush the system when I install the new radiator. I did buy the Mishmoto filter kit that I will install at the same time.

I haven’t gotten around to the radiator job yet—the Jeep hasn’t moved since mid-March with the shut down, and I’ve been doing a bunch of work on the TJ. Once I’m done with the work on the TJ I’ll do the radiator in the JK along with a couple other little things.
 

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.... I probably will flush the system when I install the new radiator. I did buy the Mishmoto filter kit that I will install at the same time.
I haven’t gotten around to the radiator job yet..... I’ll do the radiator in the JK along with a couple other little things.
If you feel like it, it'd be good to get a good write up on both if these and some pics on this project. It's $175 for the kit, but IF it works in keeping the system unclogged, then it's a fair fix.
I'm gonna do the basic reverse flush of the heater core this week, as it's the least involved. Hopefully I'll 'see' what comes out of there, if anything.

(FYI, I see some people fuzzing over the clean up afterwards if using distilled water or having to blow air into it to dry it; from working on boat engines, I can tell you the easiest solution is to just to feed NEW antifreeze AFTER you are done with the flushing (right into the short hose into the core, before you remove both hoses and finish the job), so as not to leave water or air in the core, but instead it'll have (new) antifreeze. Then you can run the engine, lift the front end, burp it, whatever else you wanna do to it is fine, but you'll only have antifreeze running through the system. It might waste a bit more, but you know for sure whats in there)
 

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Faster you guys flush and replace the coolant - the better you'll be.

It's an easy task to flush and refill it. Will cost you all of $30 now to avoid issues down the line.

DON'T WAIT
 

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@that_dude @YnotAJeep @maitoy Well, I have a 5/2018 RECON with 17,000 miles...I just lost my heat UNLESS I turn the knob all the way to the right (max temp) on the auto temp control unit. Then I get heat, but ANY backing off from it yields room temp or colder temp. It's an automatic, WITH auto control temps.
LOTS of reading brought me here and other forums, with maybe a 1) dealer re-flash to re-calibrate the blend door (cheap$$), 2) busted actuator blend door (cheap$$) 3) busted auto temp unit (cheap$$), 4) clogged heater core(cheap$$), or 5) GULP! busted heater core(nightmare$$$).
We'll see. Taking it to the dealer next Wednesday at 11 am for a look-see. I bought it used October 2019 as a CPO so we'll see.
I'll follow up here, but man, scary. My buddy has a Land Cruiser with 370k miles. No issues. Yep, exactly: **** him!:D
It's your heater core. The other stuff is just a ruse to get you off the trail of the real culprit. Crappy OEM coolant that is full of stop leak and narrow passages in the core.
Flush and replace the coolant. If that doesn't loosen up the sludge...
Buy a new heater core, follow the video.

Heater core replacement was very easy. Make sure you have an oscillating tool and be ready to catch the coolant that will come out of the line when you cut into them. I spent more time cleaning the carpet after I was done that actually swapping the core out.
 
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