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I'll wait and pay the $100 (on top of the initial cost) from the extended warranty should it come to this. 2015 JK, rare aroma of coolant but otherwise ok.
 

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I haven't done jack with any of it yet.
I only have 32k on my Jeep.
 
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You can cross that dealer off your list.

This thread cost me a lot of money this past year.

I bought a Mishimoto Coolant Filter $106, Gates Power Clean Flush Tool $310, Airlift Cooling System Airlock Purge Tool Kit $136 , and a Stant Pressure Tester $68....additionally Mopar leak detector die, a new overfill bottle,...still no leak.

+On the Go Mixed Bed Double Standard Dionizer $385
 

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So I've been reading for awhile now... wondering what happened to the class action lawsuit and if there's any protections we have now in 2020? At 92,350 miles, I've been dealing with the overheating issue since after I bought my 2012 Rubicon used. I may be replacing the radiator soon, but it'll be the 3rd radiator within 8 years and I will still need to figure out what else is going on. I wonder too if stuff is building up around the heater core. If you guys have time to read my new discussion, please do as I'd really welcome your thoughts and experience...

 

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Stop using the Mopar coolant. It's not helping your issue - so why put it back in?

The lawsuit died when the customer took the removed fluid from the local oil change shop (really, you went to Jiffy Lube?) in an open container and stored it outside before it was turned over for analysis. Whoops.
 

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Jeep is Fiat. Fiat says it all. Fix,,, It,,, Again,,, Tony..
 

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To update on a previous question: my A/C runs well. Ice cold and on any/all settings. So that's good.

Now, after dealing with some weird heating issues and some less than interested dealers, I did a FULL coolant flush today. Radiator, engine, hoses, (new thermostat), heater core, engine block, etc...Pressurized air/coolant, and pink stock Mopar coolant. The amount of sludge from the bottom of the reservoir was scary. Caked on pretty good. I did a reverse flush of the heater core last week and there was a lot of stuff (sand-like) flowing through the clear hose like crazy. Who knows...

I have a 2018 JK Recon with 17,500 miles.

I find these JK's run 'warm', with the digital coolant temp reading showing 208*- 228* at any given time. (Didn't these things in the old days run at about 170-ish degrees??) Well, before I freaked out I asked around and it appears these Jeeps do run this "hot." Thank you EPA and mandatory MPG regs????

Anyway, no leaks in my rad ....yet. Everything else seems OK. (It has 17,500 miles for God's Sake! Ugh....)
I have a 2018 Rubicon Recon as well and I have just figured out this issue. I have already have and the heater core replaced under warranty. Now I'm trying to work with FCA to deal with the sand contamination. I have also noticed a slight coolant smell if you open the hood right after you just off the engine. I'm hoping the oil cooler is not effected.
 

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UPDATE: Even thou it's been a few days busy with work, here's the update I promised on the heating issued described above. So you all know the 1st ("local" to my work area) dealer took my Jeep in and about 90 mins later started giving me the "...Hummm maybe those bumper lights were improperly installed", and "...maybe there is some plumbning missing and that's why heating if weird", and all the all-too-well-known mods vs warranty dance. It didn't go well, and I walked. Somebody here -excuse my poor memory- suggested it was probably "time for a new dealer," so I listened and I went to another ("local" now to my home area instead) dealer and expressed the same complaint about the heat only being actually HOT on the highest setting of the temp control knob.
Right off the bat, the Service Advisor was much more receptive. They knew my Jeep is a 2018 with 17,400miles and a CPO Jeep. He walked me through his best guesses (the usual stuff for this issue) and sent me to the customer waiting area. They worked on it for a few hours. Eventually later in the day, they gave me a car to go home in, and related they "needed more time." The next day I went back upon their call back, and he AND THE TECH sat down with me and explained the Jeep had 1) passed all electronic calibrations, and 2) an inspection had revealed the blend door was fully functional. He then said the heat appeared to be working properly, BUT acknowledged the temperature on the driver side and the passenger side appeared to be different. He then said in order to chase down the probable suspect issue - 3) the electronic unit head itself - they needed to follow the wiring back to the front of the firewall, where the 'brain' is located. The ONLY time the "mods" came up now, is because I have a Genesis Dual Battery System, and a Docking Station on the dash, plus HAM and CB radio hook ups. In order to chase this issue, the most of the dash needed to be removed. The tech said the unit itself WOULD totally be under warranty IF defective (they were not sure at this point), and so would be all the labor to remove and re-install everything. HOWEVER, removing all the after market modifications installed by me would not, meaning the labor to remove everything and then put it all back would be labor out of my pocket. I'm not going to lie: THIS particular part of the explanation did make sense to me. The S/A also said they felt my work was very clean and proper, and they couldn't guarantee MY previous quality of work. They also gave me a choice to remove everything myself and bring it back.
We discussed the coolant with the suspected stop-leak from factory, and they both really said it wasn't so. This newer coolant has been a solid performer (In their view at least), and told me there was no need to flush it. We talked about the heating core and they both related if that was the issue, I'd have NO heat at all. This is not the case. They would have no issue warrantying that work too.
So....I received a little more "training" on the use of the AUTO feature and also on the use of the heat HAHA. I felt pretty douchy. But when inspected closely, you admit its not a Lexus 470 where there is DUAL heating controls. It seems, like a bunch of you have reasoned here- that the temp dial is not a specific exact temp, but mostly a guide and a range of heating. I seem to feel better about it now that I expect certain things at certain levels of the dial.
Anyway, that's it. That's all I have.
Additionally, even after my heater core replacement, I have the same issues with the "auto" climate control used manually. I was told with the heat on its warmest setting was 120°F, and one notch from there was 85°F... I'm just disappointed at this time.
 

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Should be pushing around 145 degrees out all vents when on high. Grab a laser thermo and test all vents on dash.

-FCA never heard of the clogged heater issue. Just warning you.

Both my JKs burn coolant. I'm not a mechanical engineer (I'm just a civil), so I'm sure there are valid reasons why the 3.6 burns coolant. This is why it smells. Also why I think the system goobers up. The original coolant has a ton of additives in it. When it burns off, the other stuff remains. Might be adding to the gunk buildup.

Why I swapped all mine out for non-Mopar coolant and haven't had any issues since then.
 

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Should be pushing around 145 degrees out all vents when on high. Grab a laser thermo and test all vents on dash.

-FCA never heard of the clogged heater issue. Just warning you.

Both my JKs burn coolant. I'm not a mechanical engineer (I'm just a civil), so I'm sure there are valid reasons why the 3.6 burns coolant. This is why it smells. Also why I think the system goobers up. The original coolant has a ton of additives in it. When it burns off, the other stuff remains. Might be adding to the gunk buildup.

Why I swapped all mine out for non-Mopar coolant and haven't had any issues since then.
Yeah luckily I haven't experienced this yet on my 16, but if I do I'll be switching out to Prestone or Honda Blue as well. I'll also be doing this hack too. No way I'm ripping the entire dash apart. Talk a bout a failure in thinking thru repair procedures when designing something.

This reminds me of an old GMC I had. Bought it new and maintained it religiously every 3K miles. Back in those times there were grease zerks and I always greased them at every oil change. At 100K I started to get a metal on metal creeking sound when I turned the steering wheel. I kept greasing the front end to no avail. Finallyl, it pissed me off enough I ripped off all the skid plates and spent like an hour under the truck. Finally found a zerk that was totally hidden and blocked by the stabilizer bar. I never new this zerk was there so naturally it was bone dry. It was so close to the stabilizer bar however, there was no way to get a grease gun on the nipple. I had to remove the stock nipple and replace it with a 90 degree one. Greased it and done. Idiot engineers that don't think things thru.........and yes I'm an engineer myself.
 

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My 2013 JK just started having problems with heat/heating the cabin this past week. I checked forums and videos and knew of the casting sand, flushed the system and found very little sand in the radiator and heater core. I vacuum tested the system and filled with fresh radiator fluid but still no improvement. Now I know why, possibly...
 

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My 2013 JK just started having problems with heat/heating the cabin this past week. I checked forums and videos and knew of the casting sand, flushed the system and found very little sand in the radiator and heater core. I vacuum tested the system and filled with fresh radiator fluid but still no improvement. Now I know why, possibly...
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 

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My 2013 JK just started having problems with heat/heating the cabin this past week. I checked forums and videos and knew of the casting sand, flushed the system and found very little sand in the radiator and heater core. I vacuum tested the system and filled with fresh radiator fluid but still no improvement. Now I know why, possibly...
1. Great user name.
2. There's not a lot of sand casting for the engines. The blocks are die cast. Only the heads are sand cast. Even then, they're cleaned very well as documented on several websites.
3. Flushing would only pull out what's loose. Odds are your core is clogged (see pictures of them by others). The material that has clogged the super tight passages does not respond well to flushing or anything. Folks have super flushed, power flushed, reversed flushed, etc their cores only to replace them anyway.
4. Just replace the core. There are videos that show an easy access through the passenger side of the dash. Get a decent battery operated oscillating tool and have at it. It takes about an hour.
 

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When/ if mine goes it will be replaced with a 392 or Bronco. It's just paperwork, no tools needed.
 

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3rd radiator was installed yesterday on my 17. when u see it leaking, take pictures and video. moves the process along quicker
 
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