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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. A few weeks ago when it was 12 degrees outside, I went to work & when I got in my jeep to leave the clutch seems loose...a lot of play in the pedal. As I was driving the pedal resistance went back to normal & I thought it was just doing that because it was freezing outside. Now that it is warmer, it still does it but not as bad. For instance, this morning I got in it to go to work & the same thing happened. My question is, is this typical clutch going bad symptoms? Or do i have water in the clutch line from freezing? I have the reservoir topped off so it is full of clutch fluid. Can I drain the fluid somehow & re-fill it? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I just don't want to dump a few hundred dollars in a new clutch unless I have to.
 

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No leaks in the reservoir?
It could be air... press the clutch pedal over night with the cap off. Should allow any air to escape. (Had to do this to a mini cooper last year - worked though!)
 

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Had to replace mine recently, and made a video about it on my jeepsolid.com page. I was having similar symptoms. Sometimes clutch pedal was fine, other times it was soft and I had to pump it to be able to shift gears. This went on for a few weeks, giving me intermittent issues, until I replaced clutch master and slave cylinder with a pre bleed system. Haven't had an issue since!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, last night I was able to keep the cluthc pedal compressed all night with the resovour cap off. This monirng it is working great. My question is now, is it normal to have air bubbles in the resovour? When I pump the clutch there's so many that it turns white. Could this be air in my system? One more thing....the other day it was so bad I could not change the gears when I had it started but had to turn it off, put it in gear then go...any ideas?
 

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Try bleeding it before you replace anything.
No it isn't "normal" to have air in the clutch hydraulic system. You may have a leak and didn't notice the master was low until until it was pulling air into the system.
95red95 has an external slave. Yes, it was easy for him.
OPs '94 has the same set up. It should be available as a pre-bled assembly if you decide it needs replacement. If (when) my clutch goes out I will convert my '87 to external slave. Internal slave was a bad idea from the start.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Just went through this last year on my 91 YJ, since you have to pull the transmission on a 91 to change the slave cylinder, I went ahead and did an entire clutch job while I was in there.
 

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i just did this on my 95 yj...pretty easy...took me a few hours...had the mentioned issues where i eventually ended up having to drive home up-shifting without the clutch and pumping like hell to build up enough pressure to down-shift.
 

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If your clutch is going bad (everyone seems to be correct in thinking that it's more in the clutch line though), you should be able to change the TRANSMISSION (not clutch) fluid and see clutch material in the fluid. The new fluid will cause slippage because the clutch material is now no longer present in the fluid.

I agree with L.M. on this one, focus on bleeding the clutch fluid first then try the master and slave cylinders.
 

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If your clutch is going bad (everyone seems to be correct in thinking that it's more in the clutch line though), you should be able to change the TRANSMISSION (not clutch) fluid and see clutch material in the fluid. The new fluid will cause slippage because the clutch material is now no longer present in the fluid.

I agree with L.M. on this one, focus on bleeding the clutch fluid first then try the master and slave cylinders.
Uhhhhhhhhhh, there is no way that Clutch material will get into the Transmission Fluid, this is a Standard Trans., not an Auto Transmission!
 

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Uhhhhhhhhhh, there is no way that Clutch material will get into the Transmission Fluid, this is a Standard Trans., not an Auto Transmission!
You're right, brain fart! Disregard that, I forgot that standard clutches are dry. Thanks for clarifying.
 

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If you have the internal master cylinder like mine, I believe you have to pull the transmission in order to change it. - that sucks, so if you get to that point plan on doing the clutch and all while in there.

Now, before you get to that point. --

Check the slave cylinder for leaks. Check the fluid level and condition. The slave cylinder is not expensive and fairly easy to change due to its accessibility. Fluid flush is really easy, basically drain and refill - takes a buddy to manipulate the pedal while you open and close the bleeder (keep an eye on the levels to avoid sucking in air)

My current YJ blew the slave cylinder right after we bought it, I though I was in for a clutch job until I inspected and diagnosed the problem.

About two years later it became barely drivable as it getting too difficult to shift - figured I was in for a clutch job. Reluctantly, I did a fluid flush (it was black after just 2 years) took me all but 30 minutes, it's been shifting fine now ever since.

I've read that the fluid once opened is very susceptible to collecting atmospheric moisture so it's recommended to use brake fluid from new containers
 

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If you have an internal slave do not replace it swap out to external setup, install new clutch and pilot bearing and resurface you flywheel. If you have to go in make it the last time for a while...my 2 cents..YMMV
 

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A 94 has an external slave. I agree that you should swap out the master/slave with one of those pre bled systems. It takes like 15min. Just remember not to remove the retaining strap that it comes with as tempting as it looks. They are designed to be installed and then you break it the first time you depress the clutch.
Also just because your not losing fluid does not mean your master/slave is ok. If that thought crossed your mind.
 

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While I agree that swapping an internal master cylinder to an external seems to make logical sense since you are already in there - from what I've read this may require swapping the bearing retainer and bell housing.

Given that the stock clutch/master cylinder last well over 100k miles, I wonder if this effort is worth it. - And for anyone who must rely on a shop, may be difficult to convince a shop to make mods.

Also - wondering why the pre bled systems are a thing, I've never had an issue draining and refilling.
 

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Perfect opportunity for a stainless steel clutch line! I'm glad I have one, it's peace of mind.
 

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In your first tread you said " I have the reservoir topped off so it is full of clutch fluid." does this mean that it was low? If so that may be when you got air in the system, if so just a real good bleeding may work, but why was it low, You may have a bad line that is sucking in air.
 

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While I agree that swapping an internal master cylinder to an external seems to make logical sense since you are already in there - from what I've read this may require swapping the bearing retainer and bell housing. Given that the stock clutch/master cylinder last well over 100k miles, I wonder if this effort is worth it. - And for anyone who must rely on a shop, may be difficult to convince a shop to make mods. Also - wondering why the pre bled systems are a thing, I've never had an issue draining and refilling.
I think you mean internal slave cylinder, all master cylinders are external and mounted on the firewall, I know you know that but anyone who reads this thread behind you that doesn't know might get confused. None of that matters to him anyways since '94 and '95 have external slaves. As far as buying a pre-bled. It's just peace of mind that it's done right. And it greatly reduces the time to complete the job. But you're right if he wants to buy the parts and bleed it himself he certainly could.
 
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