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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day, I noticed that clutch engagement was almost immediate on releasing the clutch. Yesterday, I was having difficulty getting into gear.
Ok, I'm assuming my Clutch master is bad due to the 'crystalized' brake fluid at the base of the reservoir. The Slave and line are only almost 3 years old.

Is it a bad unit to be replaced, or is it something simpler?
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Here's a link to a sticky that might give you some insight into the clutch master cylinder issues.

If that's actually crystalized brake fluid at the outside bottom of your clutch master cylinder, apparently you have a leak. I can't think of what else it might be. If brake fluid is getting out, air might be getting in. I suggest reading the first few (or more) posts in the attached link, then replacing the master cylinder with one that you feel will work for you.

Keep us updated on how it goes for you.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Try pumping the clutch pedal. Many, many decades ago (I was still in HS) while working during the summer I drove a shop truck (1959 Ford that was only about a year old) and every time I stopped at a traffic light, I had to slip it into neutral. Then when the light turned green, I pumped the clutch twice to get it in gear. If I sat there with the clutch dis engaged, slowly it would creep back into the engaged position. They got it fixed after I went back to school. From that day forward, I hated hydraulic clutches, but that's all we see these days.

If that works, I think that's a sign of air in the system.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Air, and more specifically moisture from the air will degrade the hydraulic properties of your fluid. Brake fluid is cheap, give the reservoir a good cleaning, tighten the clamps, bleed the lines, and see how that works for you, If that doesnt work then Do as L.M suggests and start shopping for a new Master Cylinder.
Stay away from Autozone, went through 3 to get one that worked correctly before I did my external slave swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. I had actually found the Clutch bleed thread and read through it. I had also found a thread on a Viper forum that mentioned the crystalized brake fluid. I've already started shopping. I would have picked it up today, but Thanksgiving. Gonna go ahead and get a new master.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Thanks. I had actually found the Clutch bleed thread and read through it. I had also found a thread on a Viper forum that mentioned the crystalized brake fluid. I've already started shopping. I would have picked it up today, but Thanksgiving. Gonna go ahead and get a new master.
What route are you going?
 

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Uh oh. I think you're never going to be satisfied. Willwood wouldn't respond to my emails asking what thread the master is. So I'm stuck on the LUK "Original Equipment" master that doesn't actually work.
I put a fitting on a clutch master cap and hooked it to my vacuum pump to suck the air out of the system and even fully 100% bled it's just junk. I think there's something wrong in some database somewhere. The replacement masters just don't seem right.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Wilwood takes a 3an fitting to whatever type supply hose you decide to use.
I gave them a call about sourcing the connector for the pedal and got right through, but no good answer to my question. Ended up fiding a heim joint off amazon that fit perfect after cutting out the interior ball and using the socket.
 
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