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Discussion Starter #1
2015 Wrangler HR manual with 40,000 miles. The ticking noise starts after about an hour off road. Only makes the sound with the clutch released and in neutral position.

Have had it to the dealer but I can't get the noise to start just driving around town or interstate driving. With my explanation of the noise they want to go aver the engine heads.

I can't seem to understand why the clutch would have anything to do with the engine heads and it clearly appears to be a clutch issue to me.

Any ideas on what is causing the noise or how I can replicate it for the dealer?
 

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Further diagnostics points to the pilot bearing. Classic noise I see/hear on the Utube videos.

My local dealer confirmed the pilot bearing issue as well but now says it isn't sever enough to go after it. Says it might "JUST" have some dirt or dust in it.

Some responses are just too hard to make up. Going for a third decision now that we can hear the noise all the time. Why ruin a tranny over a $30 part? I wonder if the input shaft isn't already ruined.
 

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Well it finally was diagnosed as a bad release bearing (thro-out bearing) Jeep doesn't replace these under warranty as it id considered a owner wear item like breaks and tires, I get that.
Replaced at my expense and the noise went away...………………………………….

Well for awhile. The rattle returned about two weeks later.

So a month has come and gone but I finely get the rattle to remain long enough to get the dealer to hear it.

So it appears to the head shop foreman that it is the plastic disc on the slave cylinder that engages the Release Arm that is worn. Going back in the shop again for replacement of that next week under warranty (maybe because it should have been caught when the did the entire clutch(?).

The diagnosis procedure for those that want to know:
The rattle noise goes away right as you place your foot pressure on the clutch pedal (with a very light touch/push) with the vehicle running and in neutral.

Getting the noise to appear was the real task. I came and went on several occasions. By the time I would arrive at the dealership, POOF! it was gone! Took several attempts between myself and the mechanics driving around.

The after getting it looked at the noise (rattle) began to fade from time to time with the engine at idle.
 

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so, i don't drive my wife's jeep much, nor does she. it has a whopping 11k miles on it after 25 months. I took it last night to get her gas and to pick up one of my boys from soccer practice. while parked and idling at the field, I heard a rattling sound. I thought it may be the engine, since I sell a ton of 3.6l head parts to a local cab company. I listened closer, and found it to be below the floor shifter. I engaged the clutch completely, and it went away. I let out the clutch, and the rattle started back up. is this an immediate concern? we are under warranty. we are leasing it until aug 2019. we are not buying it out. should I take it in to the dealer, or just let it go as an annoyance noise? my wife has not even noticed it!! probably assumes "it's a jeep thing."
 

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Occasionally gear rollover noise is misdiagnosed as a bad TOB, or vice-versa. Operative word being "occasionally." There is a lot of information on the web about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so, i don't drive my wife's jeep much, nor does she. it has a whopping 11k miles on it after 25 months. I took it last night to get her gas and to pick up one of my boys from soccer practice. while parked and idling at the field, I heard a rattling sound. I thought it may be the engine, since I sell a ton of 3.6l head parts to a local cab company. I listened closer, and found it to be below the floor shifter. I engaged the clutch completely, and it went away. I let out the clutch, and the rattle started back up. is this an immediate concern? we are under warranty. we are leasing it until aug 2019. we are not buying it out. should I take it in to the dealer, or just let it go as an annoyance noise? my wife has not even noticed it!! probably assumes "it's a jeep thing."
After all the run around I can only say, "Take it to the dealer and let them figure it out." Now I have waited over a week for a new slave cylinder install."
Thay may say it is the clutch and that you'll have to paid for its replacement, Don't Buy it. I have driven my Jeep over 55,000 miles before they started the nickle+dime dance on me. Clutches are not a warranty item.
 

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Well it finally was diagnosed as a bad release bearing (thro-out bearing) Jeep doesn't replace these under warranty as it id considered a owner wear item like breaks and tires, I get that.
Replaced at my expense and the noise went away...………………………………….

Well for awhile. The rattle returned about two weeks later.

So a month has come and gone but I finely get the rattle to remain long enough to get the dealer to hear it.

So it appears to the head shop foreman that it is the plastic disc on the slave cylinder that engages the Release Arm that is worn. Going back in the shop again for replacement of that next week under warranty (maybe because it should have been caught when the did the entire clutch(?).

The diagnosis procedure for those that want to know:
The rattle noise goes away right as you place your foot pressure on the clutch pedal (with a very light touch/push) with the vehicle running and in neutral.

Getting the noise to appear was the real task. I came and went on several occasions. By the time I would arrive at the dealership, POOF! it was gone! Took several attempts between myself and the mechanics driving around.

The after getting it looked at the noise (rattle) began to fade from time to time with the engine at idle.
When my 2014 was still under warranty my dealer replace the TO bearing four times under warranty for being noisy. I took a video of it. It would start after about 20 mins of driving. I am happy to say that it has been quiet since the fourth TO bearing. I am very sorry to hear your dealer made you pay. A TO bearing is not a wear item like a clutch. At least not in the 2014 JKU. Mine would only do it with clutch fully engaged. If you would press the pedal .25" the noise would go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When my 2014 was still under warranty my dealer replace the TO bearing four times under warranty for being noisy. I took a video of it. It would start after about 20 mins of driving. I am happy to say that it has been quiet since the fourth TO bearing. I am very sorry to hear your dealer made you pay. A TO bearing is not a wear item like a clutch. At least not in the 2014 JKU. Mine would only do it with clutch fully engaged. If you would press the pedal .25" the noise would go away.[/QUOTE]
Same noise we are experiencing but with the exact opposite clutch movement.
Pushing the clutch in about a .25 inch makes the noise go away. ALL the components of the clutch mechanism is specifically mentioned in my factory warranty as NOT being covered.

Evidentially they were failing too often and they may have changed the warranty.
 

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When my 2014 was still under warranty my dealer replace the TO bearing four times under warranty for being noisy. I took a video of it. It would start after about 20 mins of driving. I am happy to say that it has been quiet since the fourth TO bearing. I am very sorry to hear your dealer made you pay. A TO bearing is not a wear item like a clutch. At least not in the 2014 JKU. Mine would only do it with clutch fully engaged. If you would press the pedal .25" the noise would go away.[/QUOTE]
Same noise we are experiencing but with the exact opposite clutch movement.
Pushing the clutch in about a .25 inch makes the noise go away. ALL the components of the clutch mechanism is specifically mentioned in my factory warranty as NOT being covered.

Evidentially they were failing too often and they may have changed the warranty.
On mine if you press the clutch pedal in the noise would go away. When clutch was fully engaged, meaning the pedal was not being pressed the noise was there. Pressing the clutch pedal disengages the clutch. Are we saying the same thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
On mine if you press the clutch pedal in the noise would go away. When clutch was fully engaged, meaning the pedal was not being pressed the noise was there. Pressing the clutch pedal disengages the clutch. Are we saying the same thing?
I don't know how far you are pushing the clutch pedal in.
On mine we only have to place a very light pressure on the pedal to cause the noise to go away (about 1/4").

In my case this noise does not appear all the time (in comes and goes) after driving, when the vehicle is in neutral and idling.
Now the dealers shop foreman is saying it is the slave cylinder causing this noise (for the record yes your noise sounds the same).
 

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the dealer i bought my jeep from 2016 didnt want to honor warranty went to another no issues install a new clutch kit and release bearing under warranty. you have to fine a jeep dealer that will honor warranties some just dont care about service
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the dealer i bought my jeep from 2016 didnt want to honor warranty went to another no issues install a new clutch kit and release bearing under warranty. you have to fine a jeep dealer that will honor warranties some just dont care about service
I would certainly like a copy of your power train warranty to compare to my 2015 warranty. I am a bit miffed about replacing a perfectly good clutch assembly (minus the release bearing) at my experience! And then it didn't cure the problem.....

New slave cylinder is going in tomorrow so, we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As of today the Jeep has been in now for a week to replace the clutch slave (supposedly causing the arm to rattle) but new symptoms have been spotted.

The shop foreman says the recently replaced release bearing is bad and the rear main seal is leaking as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Any updates? I am having the same issue.
As mentioned before it is assumed that the release bearing/throw-out bearing that was installed to correct the initial problem was bad and a new one was ordered. In looking at the situation it was also discovered the rear main seal was leaking just a tad so they also ordered a new seal for replacement while the bearing is to be replaced.

Well, the rear main seal has taken just about a month to get. I am getting the Jeep to them shortly for the work to be accomplished. I hope it cures the problem this time.

We'll see.
:drinks:
 

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As mentioned before it is assumed that the release bearing/throw-out bearing that was installed to correct the initial problem was bad and a new one was ordered. In looking at the situation it was also discovered the rear main seal was leaking just a tad so they also ordered a new seal for replacement while the bearing is to be replaced.

Well, the rear main seal has taken just about a month to get. I am getting the Jeep to them shortly for the work to be accomplished. I hope it cures the problem this time.

We'll see.
:drinks:
Hey H8SPVMT,

Let us know if you need any assistance working with your dealership on this. DM us any time!

Jennifer
Jeep Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey H8SPVMT,

Let us know if you need any assistance working with your dealership on this. DM us any time!

Jennifer
Jeep Social Care Specialist
Elizabeth is helping me deal with this issue as a Jeep Care Specialist, thank you for the help.
Parts are on hand for another attempt to repair the Tranny and main rear seal.
 

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The noise in the video is not gear roll-over IMO. It has a distinct sound. One way a bad slave cylinder would manifest itself is a creaking noise when the clutch pedal is pressed. There is a plastic tip that could become worn over time leading to it producing the creaking noise. Gear roll-over is common and sounds like rumbling or marbles in a can. A bad TOB/RB sounds like a scratching noise that changes with engine RPM in neutral.

If you drop the transmission, make sure they use a TOB/RB that doesn't have plastic parts (Mopar doesn't as far as I know), and that high-temp grease is liberally used on the fork/pivot arm contact points. Additionally, replacing the slave cylinder is not a bad idea as the plastic point can be easily damaged. If you replace the clutch, be sure to replace the flywheel, too. Most manuals today use thinner oil so the gear roll-over is more common to hear. It's not 'bad': it's just an artifact of the drivetrain.
 
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