Hey Jerry, what is the difference between the gold kit and the non gold kit? I'll be replacing my clutch in two weekends and wondering what kit in going to buy.
Clutch Replacement
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Don't buy the gold. Partsgeek has LUK's kits for $93 for the 4.0, and I think seventy something for the 2.5L 1994-1995, 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler Clutch Kit - LUK 05-065 - - PartsGeek.com
has any one gone at the clutch from the other end [pull the engine 2.5L]
the clutch is on the list for next summer on the wrangler
and the skid plate has not been off yet [trans/transfer case]
on my F250 and the Sammy that is how I usually do a swap out
just wondering if there is any issues to watch out for
SnoHam13
the clutch is on the list for next summer on the wrangler
and the skid plate has not been off yet [trans/transfer case]
on my F250 and the Sammy that is how I usually do a swap out
just wondering if there is any issues to watch out for
SnoHam13
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12,108 Posts
Unless you have another reason to pull the engine, it is a WHOLE lot less effort to pull the transfer case and transmission as an assembly to do a clutch.
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673 Posts
The Gold kit (a performance clutch kit) will have more clutch disc surface area to contact the flywheel/pressure plate, a higher clamping force pressure plate, and a different type of clutch disc material. In reality, you probably don't need it unless you're running a heavily modified 300+ horsepower 4.0L...
Although it's not a Jeep specific, this guy explains it pretty well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhJWIMRs478
Preformance clutch problems
Long story short, after tranny mount broke on 05 Wrangler had to fix a lot under the hood. While the transmission was out asked the shop to check the clutch and it only had 15% left. So needless to say we replaced it and upgraded from original to luk performance. Now having problems with the clutch. When engaged works wonderful. However, when not engaged there is a screeching noise. As soon and the clutch is depressed it goes away. Shop says it might be the slave and master cylinders.
Need advise before putting more money into it.
Long story short, after tranny mount broke on 05 Wrangler had to fix a lot under the hood. While the transmission was out asked the shop to check the clutch and it only had 15% left. So needless to say we replaced it and upgraded from original to luk performance. Now having problems with the clutch. When engaged works wonderful. However, when not engaged there is a screeching noise. As soon and the clutch is depressed it goes away. Shop says it might be the slave and master cylinders.
Need advise before putting more money into it.
It might be too early in the AM for me; I can't discern when this noise is happening for you. Does engaged mean the clutch is engaged or the clutch _pedal_ is engaged?. Commonly, from a mechanical perspective the clutch is said to be engaged when the clutch pedal is up, but I don't think that's what you're describing.
i.e. Is this the case?:
- Transmission in gear & clutch pedal up: everything's fine
- Transmission in gear & clutch pedal down: everything's fine
- Transmission in neutral & clutch pedal up: crazy noise
- Transmission in neutral & clutch pedal down: crazy noise goes away
Without other data, if a bad noise goes away when you push the clutch pedal down, it's likely not the slave or master cylinder.
- If a bad screeching noise starts when you push the clutch pedal down, it's likely the throwout bearing.
- If a bad screeching noise starts when the clutch pedal is up it's likely the flywheel surface, the pressure plate, or a clutch failure (e.g. broken/out of place spring)
- If a bad screeching noise starts only when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch pedal is up, it is likely the input shaft bearing.
- If it's hard to put the transmission in gear without grinding, or the jeep tries to move with the pedal down, it is likely the slave/master cylinder/pivot arm.
Obviously those aren't 100% diagnosis statements, so there could be some information the shop has that we don't which points to the slave/master combo.
FWIW, the slave/master can be purchased in a combo kit pre-bled with fluid, and replaced in about an hour or so if you are familiar with the jeep, and is how I would recommend changing it.
Lastly, the TJ flywheel is not really designed to be resurfaced. Many shops I would otherwise consider competent don't know this and resurface it rather than purchasing a new one, which can cause several issues, clutch chatter being one of them.
i.e. Is this the case?:
- Transmission in gear & clutch pedal up: everything's fine
- Transmission in gear & clutch pedal down: everything's fine
- Transmission in neutral & clutch pedal up: crazy noise
- Transmission in neutral & clutch pedal down: crazy noise goes away
Without other data, if a bad noise goes away when you push the clutch pedal down, it's likely not the slave or master cylinder.
- If a bad screeching noise starts when you push the clutch pedal down, it's likely the throwout bearing.
- If a bad screeching noise starts when the clutch pedal is up it's likely the flywheel surface, the pressure plate, or a clutch failure (e.g. broken/out of place spring)
- If a bad screeching noise starts only when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch pedal is up, it is likely the input shaft bearing.
- If it's hard to put the transmission in gear without grinding, or the jeep tries to move with the pedal down, it is likely the slave/master cylinder/pivot arm.
Obviously those aren't 100% diagnosis statements, so there could be some information the shop has that we don't which points to the slave/master combo.
FWIW, the slave/master can be purchased in a combo kit pre-bled with fluid, and replaced in about an hour or so if you are familiar with the jeep, and is how I would recommend changing it.
Lastly, the TJ flywheel is not really designed to be resurfaced. Many shops I would otherwise consider competent don't know this and resurface it rather than purchasing a new one, which can cause several issues, clutch chatter being one of them.
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If the screeching noise is there when the clutch is engaged (pedal up), and in neutral, it is either a problem with the clutch friction plate itself, or (more likely) a bad input shaft bearing on the transmission. With the pedal up, (and in neutral) the only things turning are the clutch (as an assembly) and the input shaft of the transmission. The clutch hydraulic system would not make a constant screeching noise.
If the noise is more of a rattle, than screeching, it could be that the clutch return spring broke or never got installed.
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Good Morning Jeepers, I’m new here with a 2000 TJ 76K miles and I have been reading threads here on Clutch replacement, it seems LUK is a good choice and some think it was the OE supplied to the TJ.
My son owns a BMW only repair shop and told me he ordered a Valeo kit and inside it was stamped LUK, he also ordered a pretty painted Stage 2 kit for another customer and inside the pressure plate was from LUK and the Fiber disc was from Valeo.
My son’s wholesale suppliers don’t carry LUK only Sachs and Valeo.
This got me thinking and I called Valeo and spoke to a tech there, he told me in the transmission world all manufactures share parts, he said it doesn’t pay to make all the tooling to match OE so they buy from each other, this allows them all to have more vehicles supplied and they share in the wealth.
This Tech also told me that Valeo actually manufactures the TJ clutch kit, however he didn’t have records to confirm they supplied the OE clutch for TJ, he said to call the dealer and they could possibly confirm this.
When I’m ready for a clutch I’m going with Valeo.
My son owns a BMW only repair shop and told me he ordered a Valeo kit and inside it was stamped LUK, he also ordered a pretty painted Stage 2 kit for another customer and inside the pressure plate was from LUK and the Fiber disc was from Valeo.
My son’s wholesale suppliers don’t carry LUK only Sachs and Valeo.
This got me thinking and I called Valeo and spoke to a tech there, he told me in the transmission world all manufactures share parts, he said it doesn’t pay to make all the tooling to match OE so they buy from each other, this allows them all to have more vehicles supplied and they share in the wealth.
This Tech also told me that Valeo actually manufactures the TJ clutch kit, however he didn’t have records to confirm they supplied the OE clutch for TJ, he said to call the dealer and they could possibly confirm this.
When I’m ready for a clutch I’m going with Valeo.
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Old dead thread
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Good information never dies and lasts forever.
old thread, I know, but I think You'll find this funny.
I need a new clutch in my 97 wrangler
I'm lazy so I call the two Jeep dealers in the area (Birmingham AL)
1) benchmark.. has a lethargic sounding woman answer the service phone. I tell her what I need and that I'd like a quote/estimate on the work. she puts me on hold for a minute, comes back and asks what it was i wanted again, back on hold, few minutes later she comes back and says "we don't work on cars that old"
2) henderson.. I guess they didn't want to do it either. They came back with $555 for parts and $1100 for labor.
I need a new clutch in my 97 wrangler
I'm lazy so I call the two Jeep dealers in the area (Birmingham AL)
1) benchmark.. has a lethargic sounding woman answer the service phone. I tell her what I need and that I'd like a quote/estimate on the work. she puts me on hold for a minute, comes back and asks what it was i wanted again, back on hold, few minutes later she comes back and says "we don't work on cars that old"
2) henderson.. I guess they didn't want to do it either. They came back with $555 for parts and $1100 for labor.
2004 Wrangler TJ, 42RLE auto trans. F/R lockers, 5.38 gears, Warn Winch, Currie 4" Suspension
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It's a wonder Jeep dealerships like that stay in business. I guess Henderson depends on having enough stupid people around to pay their prices. Pretty surprising too that Benchmark said your TJ was too old for them to work on. They must be very well off to turn business away.
I haven't been out there in a while but I think benchmark sells Rovers and BMWs too.
I miss spoke.. the other dealer is Hendrick Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram not henderson. they used to be Drennen but were one of the dealers driven out buy the bailout in 2009-2010 and absorbed by benchmark I think, then bought by/became Hendrick a few years ago. Hendrick fired all the good service rep people.
I've since found a guy that does good work on all my cars for a fair price.
I miss spoke.. the other dealer is Hendrick Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram not henderson. they used to be Drennen but were one of the dealers driven out buy the bailout in 2009-2010 and absorbed by benchmark I think, then bought by/became Hendrick a few years ago. Hendrick fired all the good service rep people.
I've since found a guy that does good work on all my cars for a fair price.
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328 Posts
Thanks to all of the good advice in this thread, I'll be going with a standard Luk kit.
is there a difference between the Dialaclutch kit Jeep CJ5, CJ6, CJ7,WRANGLER Clutch Kit for for $165
and the $90 partsgeek https://www.partsgeek.com/9g3n4lx-j...Geek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Jeep+Clutch+Kit kits?
That seems to be a significant price difference.
is there a difference between the Dialaclutch kit Jeep CJ5, CJ6, CJ7,WRANGLER Clutch Kit for for $165
and the $90 partsgeek https://www.partsgeek.com/9g3n4lx-j...Geek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Jeep+Clutch+Kit kits?
That seems to be a significant price difference.
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328 Posts
Anyone?
2004 Wrangler TJ, 42RLE auto trans. F/R lockers, 5.38 gears, Warn Winch, Currie 4" Suspension
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50,141 Posts
@Vatreefarmer Go with this $89 Luk clutch kit at https://www.amazon.com/LuK-05-065-C...=1-4&keywords=luk+clutch+kit+jeep+wrangler+tj which is the right model for your TJ.
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Thanks Jerry, you rock!
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