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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone has been following a couple other posts, I have been having issues with my clutch and hard shifting. I replaces the master and slave cylinders and although it is better, its still not great.

I am replacing my transmission fluid tomorrow and if that doesn't do it, I'm going to get my clutch replaced. I will most likely have a shop do it because this is a big job and I don't have the time or knowledge to feel comfortable.

What does replacing the clutch actually consist of as far as parts go? I think I'm looking at a pressure plate, clutch disk and throw out bearing.

For the pressure plate I am going with a Centerforce 1, for the clutch disk I am also looking at Centerforce, but I have no idea for a stronger TOB. I do not want to replace with MOPAR parts.

Any suggestions on parts or what I should replace?
 

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Tagged for responses. I have clutch chatter and am thinking of replacing the clutch, 70k miles.

njskater, you might also want to replace the flywheel if you do decide to replace the clutch while you have everything opened up, replace all parts to make sure you are starting with all new stuff.

I have a Centerforce clutch in my 60's muscle car and love it, but I have heard maybe some not so good things about it in a Jeep?
 

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I did my own clutch a bit ago. It was not fun by any means, but doable in my driveway. My throw out bearing was going bad again (after the dealer did it under warranty). My list of things were:

- Mopar clutch ( although with 30k on my factory one, it looked great. miced at .5 mm missing compared to the new one. ~300 bucks
- Throw out bearing. Here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZIQ4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 34 bucks
- Pilot bearing. 10 bucks
- trans jack (100 bucks but made the job sooooo much easier.

Everything went pretty smooth. If you change your mind and plan to do it yourself heres some tips:

- The top bellhousing bolts are a bitch.
- Remove the driveshafts, gives you more room.
- Soak soak soak the exhaust bolts. mine had to be cut off.
- When you get all the bellhousing bolts off, its not going to just pop off I thought i missed a bolt but there are dowel pins that get stuck in their holes, and have to be persuaded off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did my own clutch a bit ago. It was not fun by any means, but doable in my driveway. My throw out bearing was going bad again (after the dealer did it under warranty). My list of things were:

- Mopar clutch ( although with 30k on my factory one, it looked great. miced at .5 mm missing compared to the new one. ~300 bucks
- Throw out bearing. Here: Amazon.com: National 614093 Clutch Release Bearing Assembly: Automotive 34 bucks
- Pilot bearing. 10 bucks
- trans jack (100 bucks but made the job sooooo much easier.

Everything went pretty smooth. If you change your mind and plan to do it yourself heres some tips:

- The top bellhousing bolts are a bitch.
- Remove the driveshafts, gives you more room.
- Soak soak soak the exhaust bolts. mine had to be cut off.
- When you get all the bellhousing bolts off, its not going to just pop off I thought i missed a bolt but there are dowel pins that get stuck in their holes, and have to be persuaded off.
I am part of an off road club down at school (VaTech) and a couple of the guys said they have done it before and will help if they are free. Its just a matter of trying to get it done before i drive back to jersey for thanksgiving break ~800 miles round trip.

I am also going to avoid any and all MOPAR parts if possible. Since they have already failed, and I plan on making this a more powerful rig in the future (years from now), I want to invest in quality parts.

I really just want to know what brands make quality parts and what I need for a complete rebuild. If I am already down there installing quality parts, I might as well take precaution and do it all.

Pressure Plate: Centerforce or other brand??
Clutch Disk: Centerforce or other brand??
Flywheel: need suggestions??
Throw out Bearing: need suggestions??
Pilot Bearing: is this necessary? if so, suggestions??

Should I also invest the extra 50-100 on the centerforce 2 instead of the 1 package to handle more torque required for larger tires? Right now I have 33s but will be moving to 35s once they wear out.
 

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Pressure Plate: Centerforce or other brand??
Clutch Disk: Centerforce or other brand??
Flywheel: need suggestions??
Throw out Bearing: need suggestions??
Pilot Bearing: is this necessary? if so, suggestions??

Should I also invest the extra 50-100 on the centerforce 2 instead of the 1 package to handle more torque required for larger tires? Right now I have 33s but will be moving to 35s once they wear out.
My jeep is a 2013, so when I changed my clutch, there centerforce did not have a replacement out yet. I know spec clutches are pretty good, but spendy. the throw out bearing in the link I posted before is a National bearing, and was much much better than the mopar one.

I am sure my pilot bearing was fine, but since I was in there I wanted to do it. Its small, cheap and easy to replace. On mine, once again, mopar was the only one I could find.

I know with *some* of the centerforce kits, you HAVE to use their flywheel. They have a cool concept on how their clutches work. If you don't know how, heres a quick explanation. On the pressure plate fingers, there are weights. As your RPMs build, centrifugal force makes these weights apply more pressure on the disk assembly, yielding a stronger clamping force. Needed on a wranger? probably not, but a pretty cool concept.

For specific parts on your jeep, someone else is going to have to chime in, as I am 99 percent sure you have a slightly different clutch than me.
 

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I put a spec in my jeep after the clutch failed. Nice clutch only problem is the slave cylinder failed two months latter and now I got clutch chatter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put a spec in my jeep after the clutch failed. Nice clutch only problem is the slave cylinder failed two months latter and now I got clutch chatter.
I replaced my trans and tcase fluid and she has been shifting a lot smoother. Yesterday my clutch slipped and I couldn't get into reverse without it grinding.
I need some advice on replacement parts. Do I specifically need a centerforce flywheel to use their level 1 or 2 pressure plate and clutch disk?
 

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If anyone has been following a couple other posts, I have been having issues with my clutch and hard shifting. I replaces the master and slave cylinders and although it is better, its still not great.

I am replacing my transmission fluid tomorrow and if that doesn't do it, I'm going to get my clutch replaced. I will most likely have a shop do it because this is a big job and I don't have the time or knowledge to feel comfortable.

What does replacing the clutch actually consist of as far as parts go? I think I'm looking at a pressure plate, clutch disk and throw out bearing.

For the pressure plate I am going with a Centerforce 1, for the clutch disk I am also looking at Centerforce, but I have no idea for a stronger TOB. I do not want to replace with MOPAR parts.

Any suggestions on parts or what I should replace?
Centerforce makes a great clutch, I would however go with the Centerforce II. It is much better suited for a Wrangler than the Centerforce I is. In addition to the parts you're replacing I would also look into a new pilot bearing and replacing the flywheel. You will have a clutch setup much better than it was when your Jeep was new. I'm not a big fan of cutting flywheels used with hydraulic clutches, unless you shim it to make up for the material removed. Opinions vary.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Centerforce makes a great clutch, I would however go with the Centerforce II. It is much better suited for a Wrangler than the Centerforce I is. In addition to the parts you're replacing I would also look into a new pilot bearing and replacing the flywheel. You will have a clutch setup much better than it was when your Jeep was new. I'm not a big fan of cutting flywheels used with hydraulic clutches, unless you shim it to make up for the material removed. Opinions vary.
What would you recommend for a flywheel?
 

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What would you recommend for a flywheel?

A flywheel from the dealer would be fine.

You can cut yours, but you'll need to know how much material is removed and shim the flywheel by that amount for best results. A lot of people don't do that and wonder why they have problems, sometimes in a very short period of time after a clutch job. IMO its not worth the risk, besides a new flywheel isn't that much in the grand scheme of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A flywheel from the dealer would be fine.

You can cut yours, but you'll need to know how much material is removed and shim the flywheel by that amount for best results. A lot of people don't do that and wonder why they have problems, sometimes in a very short period of time after a clutch job. IMO its not worth the risk, besides a new flywheel isn't that much in the grand scheme of things.
Would there be issues running a high performance clutch like the centerforce 2 with a mopar flywheel?
 

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Would there be issues running a high performance clutch like the centerforce 2 with a mopar flywheel?
I've only used Centerforce I and II clutches and they work well with stock flywheels. So if you were buying a stock Mopar replacement flywheel it will work just fine with the Centerforce II clutch.

Their tech support people were very helpful, they were the people who turned me onto the CF II over the CF I for off road and heavy duty use. What's nice about their clutches is even though they are heavy duty there's ZERO chatter if you do the job right. The clutches last a very long time, and are a tremendous improvement over the stock clutch in the Wrangler.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've only used Centerforce I and II clutches and they work well with stock flywheels. So if you were buying a stock Mopar replacement flywheel it will work just fine with the Centerforce II clutch.

Their tech support people were very helpful, they were the people who turned me onto the CF II over the CF I for off road and heavy duty use. What's nice about their clutches is even though they are heavy duty there's ZERO chatter if you do the job right. The clutches last a very long time, and are a tremendous improvement over the stock clutch in the Wrangler.
So right now I am looking at the following parts:
Centerforce 2 pressure plate
Centerforce Clutch Disk
Mopar Flywheel
National TOB
????? Pilot Bearing


I would an aftermarket flywheel but I can't spend 500 on the Centerforce one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Could this be anything other then the clutch not properly disengaging?

It is just a really rough shift for 1st and reverse. Then slowly gets better 2-6 but still isn't where it should be.

I tried to test the clutch and disengaged it (clutch depressed) and with it in first reved the engine to see if I would get any movement. Jeep didn't roll forward so I dont know if its not properly disengaging, if this is a problem with the synchs, or just the shifter boot.
 

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So have you replaced parts yet or still diagnosing the grinding in first and reverse?

In theory the first and reverse shifts require more effort on the synchros in the trans because the mainshaft is stationary. You do not get the benefit of matching the revolution of the mainshaft with that of the input shaft.
Your test on level with engine rpm and clutch disengaged(depressed) will only show a very bad clutch or trans because of torque needed to move the weight of the vehicle.
Your clutch could be dragging the flywheel when you disengage it and causing your grinding /hard gear engagement. There are a number of reasons for that issue.
Without going into detail I suggest you go to Eaton website for class eight truck info( on highway or linehaul), and go to their clutch diagnostics info to gain some more knowledge. Its for commercial applications but the theories apply
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So have you replaced parts yet or still diagnosing the grinding in first and reverse?

In theory the first and reverse shifts require more effort on the synchros in the trans because the mainshaft is stationary. You do not get the benefit of matching the revolution of the mainshaft with that of the input shaft.
Your test on level with engine rpm and clutch disengaged(depressed) will only show a very bad clutch or trans because of torque needed to move the weight of the vehicle.
Your clutch could be dragging the flywheel when you disengage it and causing your grinding /hard gear engagement. There are a number of reasons for that issue.
Without going into detail I suggest you go to Eaton website for class eight truck info( on highway or linehaul), and go to their clutch diagnostics info to gain some more knowledge. Its for commercial applications but the theories apply
I haven't replaced anything yet. Still deciding on a mfg for the flywheel and pilot bearing. Don't want to go with mopar, but it seems aftermarket flywheels are pretty expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So have you replaced parts yet or still diagnosing the grinding in first and reverse?

In theory the first and reverse shifts require more effort on the synchros in the trans because the mainshaft is stationary. You do not get the benefit of matching the revolution of the mainshaft with that of the input shaft.
Your test on level with engine rpm and clutch disengaged(depressed) will only show a very bad clutch or trans because of torque needed to move the weight of the vehicle.
Your clutch could be dragging the flywheel when you disengage it and causing your grinding /hard gear engagement. There are a number of reasons for that issue.
Without going into detail I suggest you go to Eaton website for class eight truck info( on highway or linehaul), and go to their clutch diagnostics info to gain some more knowledge. Its for commercial applications but the theories apply
I can't find the clutch diagnostics info, could you link me?
 

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