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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
while offloading my jeep wrangler tj 2002 did not want to start without manipulating the clutch.
I know that there is a switch when the clutch is pushed in that it will let the jeep start.

can anyone tell me where this switch is and if it needs to be replaced or just adjusted?

Thanks
Tank
 

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That clutch safety interlock can be defeated by inserting a fuse into one of the empty fuse slots behind the glove compartment door. You normally insert a 10A fuse into the #4 fuse location though I understand that fuse location can vary on some model years. You can find your 2002's exact clutch interlock bypass fuse location in your owner's manual.

I left mine permanently bypassed in my '97, there's no real need for it except for idiots who can't learn to shift into Neutral or to step on the clutch before starting the engine. That clutch safety interlock was only added in the 80's by lawsuit-happy lawyers.
 

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Pretty sure #4 is to disable the door switches. If I remember correctly, on my '99 it is the bottom right corner spot. I want to say #20, but dont quote me on that. I very well could be wrong. It has been 2 years since I did that. Check the manual to be sure.
 

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Whoops yep you're right fuse #4 is for the door switch defeat to keep the interior lights off. I meant fuse location #20 seems to be the most common location for the interlock bypass as you mentioned Brandon. :)
 

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It's 20 or 24 can't remember which but it's under the hood on my 05, manual says to put a 10 amp in place, mine had a twenty in and even after placing a ten it won't delete, even in 4low. Figured I'd just put a jumper switch in place as I've heard permanent wired work arounds can cause some funny stuff, like cruise not working and the like.
 

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It's 20 or 24 can't remember which but it's under the hood on my 05, manual says to put a 10 amp in place, mine had a twenty in and even after placing a ten it won't delete, even in 4low. Figured I'd just put a jumper switch in place as I've heard permanent wired work arounds can cause some funny stuff, like cruise not working and the like.
It won't delete? :confused:

And the interlock circuit is actually a very simple on-off circuit, there's no magic to it. All it is doing is adding a simple clutch-pedal mounted on-off switch into the starter circuit. Installing the bypass fuse simply wires around that on-off switch like it is in its On position.

You can leave the bypass fuse in permanently if you're as capable of learning as your mother & grandmothers were that they had to either step on the clutch pedal or shift into Neutral before starting the engine. They had no troubles learning that simple common sense required step.

Kind of like we didn't used to require warning labels on our coffee cups warning us that the coffee inside the cup was hot. We are becoming a society of people who are helpless without safety warnings and extra clutch interlock switches. :)
 

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I hear what your saying but it wasn't bypassing the clutch safety switch. As in made no difference, and to top it off for some reason there's a tranny relay in there when it's not even wired up.

And as far as wiring in my own delete so I can fire it up in low range if I happen to stall in 3+ feet of water/muck and not burn a clutch 20 miles back in the timber. It messes with the computer, and I've heard people say lots about weird hiccups like intermittent start and idle issues that some how stem from it thinking the clutch is on the floor. I'm just gonna by pass it to a push button switch on the dash so I don't have to worry about crawling under the dash to undo what I've done. not disabling the cruise control permanently is my main issue.
 

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It's not just apart of the starter circuit in my case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hmm I crawled in there to find the actual switch.
I did not see any wire from the clutch pedal.
What did I miss?
 

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The switch itself is on the backside of the clutch master slave cylinder, it is easiest to pull the master clutch cylinder to replace it.

I would just find the two wires that lead to it up high on the passenger-side of the firewall where the clutch rod enters the passenger compartment and splice them together to eliminate the need for the switch.
 

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This is where you're supposed to put a 10 amp fuse to bypass the switch under the hood, doesn't work for me though.
 

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Also yours may be different from mine I think it changed in 03, but look behind the glove box, on the very bottom left may be an open slot (mines a spare holder) but before they changed for the rubicons it might be for auto trans. If you put a fuse there it may bypass as well. Worth a shot.
 

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When was it moved from the fuse panel behind the glove box into the Power Distribution Center?
I'm not to sure Jerry, I'm not even sure when they went from the bypass being a clip on the pedal to a fuse in the first place. But the manual says that's the spot. Sorry for hasty pics but they work.
 

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And another pic from manual stating bypass only works in 4 low, funny that the manual says to use 20 but PDC cap says 10. I tried both
 

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That's good information to know it was moved to the PDC in later years, what year TJ is yours? Earlier TJs accomplished this with a fuse in the #20 slot in the fuse panel behind the glove box door. The '97 was different yet, it required that a cable connector plug be moved to a different location.
 

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That's good information to know it was moved to the PDC in later years, what year TJ is yours? Earlier TJs accomplished this with a fuse in the #20 slot in the fuse panel behind the glove box door. The '97 was different yet, it required that a cable connector plug be moved to a different location.
Yea I've seen that researching my issue. Mines an 05 lj so I figure it's safe to assume 04 is the same. The last four weeks have been hell trying to figure out what's going on with this thing. I'm sure it was wrecked way worse then I thought when I bought it. New d30 housing a safe-t cap and obvious teeth marks from the frame straightener on the driver side front horn I couldn't see untill I had my fenders off, only having a single washer tank/pump assembly even though the firewall and tub are plumbed/wired for a hardtop. And now these clutch interlock shenanigans. Think I need to just take it all apart and figure out what it is exactly I've got for a front end.
 

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But maybe I've just got a switch issue in 4lo I'll take a peek and see what I find when the sun comes up.. Sorry to the OP if your thread got jacked but I thought I could help a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi all
Do not worry about the high jacking.
This is good info for me.
I learned so much on this forum and still do so every day.
Now my friend also has a jeep and I get to practice
On both.
Thank you for helping me.
 
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