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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2 door 2011 wrangler. It is 6 speed, and I was wondering if anyone has any leeway in their clutch? Mine can be pushed down about an inch with barely any pressure before it starts to need pressure to be pushed in. I recently had my throw out bearing replaced. I wonder if that has anything to do with it? Maybe the guys at the dealership didn't completely tighten it? Of you guys have an input that'd be awesome!
 

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^^^This, you need some play between your throw out bearing, and pressure plate. If you don't have it, then there goes another throw out bearing!!

Good Evening Ken......:wavey:
 

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Joon16 has a recent thread about a clutch issue. His was engaging / disengaging lower to the floor than previously. Progressed to issues shifting into first and reverse and then wouldn't shift into any gear. Several posters suggested the possibility of low brake fluid, which is used for the hydraulic clutch assist, but ended up being his slave cylinder going bad. Yours sounds like it could be the beginning of leaking seals inside the slave cylinder. As you press the clutch pedal, some of the fluid bypasses the seals in the cylinder which gives less resistance than moving the piston that actuates the clutch. If this is the case, it will progressively get worse til the clutch takes hold nearly at the floor and finally the clutch won't disengage at all.
 

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I was under the assumption that this "play" in the pedal was a recent development. Do you feel confident that it is has not always been there or are you being more sensitive to it because you recently had it worked on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Joon16 has a recent thread about a clutch issue. His was engaging / disengaging lower to the floor than previously. Progressed to issues shifting into first and reverse and then wouldn't shift into any gear. Several posters suggested the possibility of low brake fluid, which is used for the hydraulic clutch assist, but ended up being his slave cylinder going bad. Yours sounds like it could be the beginning of leaking seals inside the slave cylinder. As you press the clutch pedal, some of the fluid bypasses the seals in the cylinder which gives less resistance than moving the piston that actuates the clutch. If this is the case, it will progressively get worse til the clutch takes hold nearly at the floor and finally the clutch won't disengage at all.
I had a 1997 honda civic that did EXQCTLY that. Turned out to be low clutch fluid. My buddy told me to just bleed the clutch, so I did just that and it worked. Hopefully this isn't the case being I just had the throw out bearing replaced about 2 weeks ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was under the assumption that this "play" in the pedal was a recent development. Do you feel confident that it is has not always been there or are you being more sensitive to it because you recently had it worked on?
Before I had the throw out bearing replaced, there wasn't this much "play" in the clutch for sure. Should I call the dealership and tell them?
 

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Before I had the throw out bearing replaced, there wasn't this much "play" in the clutch for sure. Should I call the dealership and tell them?
Never hurts to bring it to their attention. Even if they tell you it's normal, it's on record if there is a later related failure. If there's no noise and no clutch slippage, you're probably ok. Just keep an eye on it to ensure it doesn't get any worse.
 

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I had a 1997 honda civic that did EXQCTLY that. Turned out to be low clutch fluid. My buddy told me to just bleed the clutch, so I did just that and it worked. Hopefully this isn't the case being I just had the throw out bearing replaced about 2 weeks ago.
Just like brakes feeling mushy if the lines aren't bled, a hydraulic clutch will do the same if there is air in the line. Fluids can't be compressed, they maintain constant volume under pressure, but gases (air) will compress under pressure. This is what gives you the spongy feel. Bleeding the line could be an easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just like brakes feeling mushy if the lines aren't bled, a hydraulic clutch will do the same if there is air in the line. Fluids can't be compressed, they maintain constant volume under pressure, but gases (air) will compress under pressure. This is what gives you the spongy feel. Bleeding the line could be an easy fix.
I will bring it to the dealerships attention tomorrow. I really do appreciate the help, and you really seem to know what you're talking about! But thanks again, and I will let you guys know what they say about it tomorrow. I also wish they would have just replaced everything when they replaced my TOB
 

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I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder twice in the last 6 months... When I bought my Wrangler about a year ago, the pressure to push in the clutch started almost at the very top of the pedal movement... After returning to the dealer 3 time to get the first slave cylinder to work, I had 1/2 the movement of the pedal before I felt any resistance in the pedal. the dealer says it was normal... Just had the second one put in two days ago and it too has more movement prior to resistance... Again, they say it is normal... Get into any new or newer Jeep and the clutch has resistance from the very top of the pedal movement. I am beginning to wonder if it is possible there is enough wear on the clutch disc (60k miles) that causes this situation... Or... is the dealer not bleeding the line correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder twice in the last 6 months... When I bought my Wrangler about a year ago, the pressure to push in the clutch started almost at the very top of the pedal movement... After returning to the dealer 3 time to get the first slave cylinder to work, I had 1/2 the movement of the pedal before I felt any resistance in the pedal. the dealer says it was normal... Just had the second one put in two days ago and it too has more movement prior to resistance... Again, they say it is normal... Get into any new or newer Jeep and the clutch has resistance from the very top of the pedal movement. I am beginning to wonder if it is possible there is enough wear on the clutch disc (60k miles) that causes this situation... Or... is the dealer not bleeding the line correctly?
When I brought my 2011 with 17k miles to the dealer for the squeaking throw out bearing, they told me it wasn't bad and I can drive with it like that (this was a Thursday, and I was leaving for Connecticut from South Carolina Monday morning) with the bad TOB. I asked them if they would drive a car with a bad part 2,500 miles round trip and they just liked at me. Could be possible that they just don't care enough? The salesman I bought my car from seemed like my best friend before I signed those papers. After that, he didn't seem to have a care in the world about me. And I MADE SURE they got my jeep in service before I left. You can bleed the line yourself as well if you don't trust them. It's not hard at all, but a lot easier with 2 people. Have one person loosen and tighten the screw in front of the engine, while the other person presses the clutch in with their foot (it will not come back up on it's own, you have to ask them to bring the clutch back upright with their hand) and I would do it until the fluid is ALMOST empty, then fill it up.
 
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