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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so running 3" savvy lift. 1.25 BL. Now that its cold hardtop is on. With hardtop all my armor and full tank of fuel I measure my rear end being .5" lower than front and if you stand back its noticeable and drives me nuts haha. SO! Keeping it simple my bump stops are all 100% perfect if anything I made them on the safer side by .5" so I know I don't rub ever max anything. Also when I did lift I didn't keep the spring insulators in the rear. Knowing they are long gone I could use them but may go with all the 3/4" spacers I see. Be just enough for the load. And when I wheel mostly in summer even though lighter load, I carry a lot more tools and spare parts so weight may be even I am ok with rear level or higher.

So these Rubicon Express 3/4 insulators are they same front and rear I don't see any brands that label them front or rear separate. Make a big deal? Will a narrow set be ok and strong. I will make a spacer for bump stops after once I have them in.

Thanks

First pic w my 33x10.5's.

Second with friends 35's just to see. Cause in probably buying a set within month but both make it seem as u level as it is
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
UnlimitedLJ04 said:
I'd suggest getting new rear springs of the proper rate for the weight you're carrying around. Old Man Emu makes several springs with different rates for this purpose...
Will they make a 3" spring? I suppose yes that is the best option. The savvy springs I know are super soft ride but I suppose the weight is adding up. Either way is it a big deal I use coil spacers at all? Or insulators have you because I don't even have the stock ones in.
 

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Will they make a 3" spring? I suppose yes that is the best option. The savvy springs I know are super soft ride but I suppose the weight is adding up. Either way is it a big deal I use coil spacers at all? Or insulators have you because I don't even have the stock ones in.
stop thinking in terms of 2" or 3" or whatever lift height. that's just a label created by the manufacturer.

instead, think in terms of spring rate and uncompressed length. the amount the springs compress is determined by the spring rate and the applied load (weight). and that's the reason a spacer won't fix the root of the problem...sure it will make it look more "level" while you're parking in your driveway, but it doesn't address the problem - the spring rate - which determines how the weight is carried as you drive down the road.

find the spring that has the rate and uncompressed length you need to achieve the height you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UnlimitedLJ04 said:
stop thinking in terms of 2" or 3" or whatever lift height. that's just a label created by the manufacturer.

instead, think in terms of spring rate and uncompressed length. the amount the springs compress is determined by the spring rate and the applied load (weight). and that's the reason a spacer won't fix the root of the problem...sure it will make it look more "level" while you're parking in your driveway, but it doesn't address the problem - the spring rate - which determines how the weight is carried as you drive down the road.

find the spring that has the rate and uncompressed length you need to achieve the height you want.
I do completely understand but do they make "in reference" a 3" spring? Where is a good spot to look up these springs. I would just need to maybe measure my spring length unloaded and see what matches up perhaps and try to get a heavy load spring.
 

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I do completely understand but do they make "in reference" a 3" spring? Where is a good spot to look up these springs. I would just need to maybe measure my spring length unloaded and see what matches up perhaps and try to get a heavy load spring.
call DPG-Offroad for OME stuff. Also look at BDS and AEV, they also make springs which may be applicable. heck, 4" Currie/Savvy springs may also work. You'll need to do some research.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So taking new measurement. Tank is just under 1/4 left. Hardtop and my rear seat in as I DD it. It sits perfect level. So when I fill it it's only 1/2" lower. Should I really sweat it as much after this. Winter I may ever have anyone in back for more than a mile. And if I need the back ill take seat out. Summer when I wheel ill have my aluminum savvy doors on and soft top or no top at all. Yes ill have a tool box maybe 50 lbs or so of stuff can't see that being more than The hard top and seat all in right?

Before I go crazy w it all. Is that pretty much accurate anyway? Never did notice it until I had hardtop on. And looks good w low fuel haha
 

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The optimal attitude fro highway travel is between 0.5" and 1" nose down. If you level it out, you will pay for it via about 1mpg penalty.

I have verified this with two different tire sizes, using airbags in the rear springs to adjust ride height, and that 1mpg is a good figure.
 

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ACOS System..

have you thought about ACOS spacers? it looks like those could be adjusted as needed..
 

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What UnlimitedLJ is saying is that without the properly rated springs for the added weight, there is a very good chance you will bottom out.
 

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My 3" BDS rear springs are rated at 200lb they gave me a little over 3" lift . They work for me and I have all types of tops and doors . The ride with 5100 Bilsteins is very good not stiff at all. I also have nothing against a small spacer to level it either . I have done it in the past and never had a problem
 

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the good news is that being you're talking about a jeep, you won't have a problem with the tank being full all the time.
 
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