[Gunner]

First question I would ask is what type of trails are on your horizon?

 

[Moonrider]

As a typical jeeper, I constantly finding myself daydreaming of ways to spend money that I don't have. My jeep is lifted, wheels and tires are good. New bumpers just went on and I'm trying to finish custom made fenders. So in my quest for bankruptcy, I'm starting to study up on the drivetrain/axles. I've searched around but haven't found a complete 'shopping list' for the drivetrain (from transmission to both axles- if a person was so inclined to do it all in one shot. That person isn't me, but as I'm researching I can only find bits and pieces of information. Hypothetically, I'd be looking to upgrade a stock D30 and rear D44. Assume that this will be a DD with occasional off-road. Off road would be mostly casual joyriding, but willing to do tough stuff when the mood strikes. Assume tires as high as 37-40" as the end game. If we toss out axles and gears (assume a complete replacement axle/gear/locker assembly is put front and rear). Whats left? Is a new transfer case needed? Driveshafts and joints? For those non-axle parts, what are the best upgrades? Whats the board consensus in this free thought exercise?

40" require different upgrades from let's say 37".

Lets dream little realistically and say you go with 37".

As a sport model you will want:

1) Prorock 44 or other competitor(Curry, G2 etc)
2) 4:88 for 3.6 l engine.
3) 3.5"-4.5" lift kit(longer shocks, extended brake lines, adj sway links(4), 3" bump stops.
4) Adj track bars
5) Raised track bar brackets(front & rear)
6) 37" tires. lol
7) Front and rear driveshaft (i prefer Coast)
8) Chromoly axle shafts(front and rear)
9) Synergy tie rod
10) Synergy drag link flip kit
11) Fox ATX steering stabilizer
12) Trim pinch seams
13) Adj control arms(8)

No need for transfercase and no need to change rear axle housing. Now 40" are totally different story.

P.S.Im sure im missing something as always

 

[monte417]

40" require different upgrades from let's say 37". Lets dream little realistically and say you go with 37". As a sport model you will want: 1) Prorock 44 or other competitor(Curry, G2 etc) 2) 4:88 for 3.6 l engine. 3) 3.5"-4.5" lift kit(longer shocks, extended brake lines, adj sway links(4), 3" bump stops. 4) Adj track bars 5) Raised track bar brackets(front & rear) 6) 37" tires. lol 7) Front and rear driveshaft (i prefer Coast) 8) Chromoly axle shafts(front and rear) 9) Synergy tie rod 10) Synergy drag link flip kit 11) Fox ATX steering stabilizer 12) Trim pinch seams 13) Adj control arms(8) No need for transfercase and no need to change rear axle housing. Now 40" are totally different story. P.S.Im sure im missing something as always

Good list. I would remove fox ats and replace with redneck ram hydro assist

 

[KME0112]

I am gonna be that guy....But- I have lots of friends in the local jeep world. The off-road areas around here although may not be MOAB type trails, are a rather large assortment of rock walls and rock obstacles that I would deem as tough as any. I have yet to see anyone that couldn't do those obstacles on 35s, with appropriate other things as well (lockers front and rear). Although personally 37's to me really do look badass. I am just not sure you have to complicate the build that much to do what you purpose. Driver experience (which is where I lack) is probably the most important factor.

 

[kjeeper10]

40" require different upgrades from let's say 37". Lets dream little realistically and say you go with 37". As a sport model you will want:

1) Prorock 44 or other competitor(Curry, G2 etc) 2) 4:88 for 3.6 l engine.
3) 3.5"-4.5" lift kit(longer shocks, extended brake lines, adj sway links, 3" bump stops.
4) Adj track bars
5) Raised track bar brackets(front & rear)
6) 37" tires. lol
7) Front and rear driveshaft (i prefer Adams)
8) Chromoly axle shafts(front and rear)
9) SteerSmarts Yeti tie rod
10) SteerSmarts Yeti no drill flipped drag link
11) Fox ATX steering stabilizer (or Hydro assist)
12) Trim pinch seams
13) Adj control arms

No need for transfercase and no need to change rear axle housing. Now 40" are totally different story. P.S.Im sure im missing something as always

Fixed

 

[tx2whlr]

As a typical jeeper, I constantly finding myself daydreaming of ways to spend money that I don't have. My jeep is lifted, wheels and tires are good. New bumpers just went on and I'm trying to finish custom made fenders. So in my quest for bankruptcy, I'm starting to study up on the drivetrain/axles. I've searched around but haven't found a complete 'shopping list' for the drivetrain (from transmission to both axles- if a person was so inclined to do it all in one shot. That person isn't me, but as I'm researching I can only find bits and pieces of information. Hypothetically, I'd be looking to upgrade a stock D30 and rear D44. Assume that this will be a DD with occasional off-road. Off road would be mostly casual joyriding, but willing to do tough stuff when the mood strikes. Assume tires as high as 37-40" as the end game. If we toss out axles and gears (assume a complete replacement axle/gear/locker assembly is put front and rear). Whats left? Is a new transfer case needed? Driveshafts and joints? For those non-axle parts, what are the best upgrades? Whats the board consensus in this free thought exercise?

I share your quest.

 

[Jaba]

First question I would ask is what type of trails are on your horizon?

Im imagining the weekend forest road guy but gets a wild hair to do a Moab trip or some serious wheeling whenever he/she can do it.

 

[Jaba]

40" require different upgrades from let's say 37". Lets dream little realistically and say you go with 37". As a sport model you will want: 1) Prorock 44 or other competitor(Curry, G2 etc) 2) 4:88 for 3.6 l engine. 3) 3.5"-4.5" lift kit(longer shocks, extended brake lines, adj sway links(4), 3" bump stops. 4) Adj track bars 5) Raised track bar brackets(front & rear) 6) 37" tires. lol 7) Front and rear driveshaft (i prefer Coast) 8) Chromoly axle shafts(front and rear) 9) Synergy tie rod 10) Synergy drag link flip kit 11) Fox ATX steering stabilizer 12) Trim pinch seams 13) Adj control arms(8) No need for transfercase and no need to change rear axle housing. Now 40" are totally different story. P.S.Im sure im missing something as always

Oh yeah thats what I'm talking about. Are 40s that different from 37s? Is it the weight or height?

 

[tx2whlr]

40" require different upgrades from let's say 37". Lets dream little realistically and say you go with 37". As a sport model you will want: 1) Prorock 44 or other competitor(Curry, G2 etc) 2) 4:88 for 3.6 l engine. 3) 3.5"-4.5" lift kit(longer shocks, extended brake lines, adj sway links(4), 3" bump stops. 4) Adj track bars 5) Raised track bar brackets(front & rear) 6) 37" tires. lol 7) Front and rear driveshaft (i prefer Coast) 8) Chromoly axle shafts(front and rear) 9) Synergy tie rod 10) Synergy drag link flip kit 11) Fox ATX steering stabilizer 12) Trim pinch seams 13) Adj control arms(8) No need for transfercase and no need to change rear axle housing. Now 40" are totally different story. P.S.Im sure im missing something as always

I like your list....I'm currently on 35's and looking at going to 37's next. You might consider some type of brake upgrade.

 

[goos]

It is the diameter, 40s will exert more leverage on the drivetrain. Like others have said, 37s and 40s are a different ballgame entirely. If you see 40s in your future, then don't even bother with dana 44s. You can pick up the mopar dana 60s for 11k for the set. A pr44 front plus a locker/shafts/gears/labor for the stock rear will put you back about 7k. So do it right the first time and get the dana 60s.

 

[kjeeper10]

Check out Fusion4x4's new bolt in tons.
http://www.fusion4x4.com/#!jk-swap-axles/g090q

 

[Jaba]

It is the diameter, 40s will exert more leverage on the drivetrain. Like others have said, 37s and 40s are a different ballgame entirely. If you see 40s in your future, then don't even bother with dana 44s. You can pick up the mopar dana 60s for 11k for the set. A pr44 front plus a locker/shafts/gears/labor for the stock rear will put you back about 7k. So do it right the first time and get the dana 60s.

Gotcha. I'm at 2.5" lift now. In my fantasy world I don't foresee more than 37s, but thats what I told myself when I bought my 35s .

Moonrider, are upgraded U joints covered in your axles listing? Or are those something people would replace only when they break?

Great discussion so far, hope everyone enjoys the brainstorming.

 

[goos]

You can run 37s with a 2.5" lift, just get flat fenders or cut your stock ones and add some bump stop to prevent bottoming out in the fender well. That will negate the need for a drag link flip, control arms, and other geometry related mods.

I don't know what U joints you want to upgrade but the only ones you have are on your front axle shafts which would go out the window along with the rest of your housing if you want to run 37s.

 

[TurkTTR]

Check out Fusion4x4's new bolt in tons.
fusion 4x4

Hadn't seen those yet, thanks! I can't seem to tell how much they cost though. I can't tell if it's my firewall at work or if it's that you just have to email them for a quote. Do you happen to have a ballpark on those tons?

 

[goos]

It looks like the rear housings run about 1500. So fully built you'd probably be looking at 3500-4k. Not bad for a 14 bolt especially if they shave it for you. Would be stronger than a prorock60/ud60 too. Nice find. I'm not seeing anything about front axles though. Would be cool if we could get something with kingpins and spindles for a reasonable price.

 

[JTPhoto JK]

Front D44 upgrade
Rear 4.88 gears to match front
3.5" lift
Draglink flip
Shocks
37" Tires..
ProCal or other programmer.
Front driveshaft
Rear driveshaft (2dr)

 

[kjeeper10]

Hadn't seen those yet, thanks! I can't seem to tell how much they cost though. I can't tell if it's my firewall at work or if it's that you just have to email them for a quote. Do you happen to have a ballpark on those tons?

Cheaper then a DT60 or U60 from what i understand and loaded to the gills. Check their FB page too.


Edit:

Heres their ad

It's about time! 1 tons for less than 1/2 tons.

Fusion JK60, JK10.5, JK14, and coming soon, Super 9s​

Oh, probably worth mentioning our aftermarket D44 killer is coming soon.

Fusion 4x4 JK 1 ton axles are far from rusted out junk yard axles! Procured from late model trucks, often newer than the JK they go under. Fully reconditioned. Complete axles include all new parts. Designed to be plug and play, and to work with the JK traction control and ABS.

You wouldn't know that it isn't a brand new axle!​

​

Options are pretty endless and there isn't much we can't do. However, here is an example.

Front D60 with Artec swap kit, gears, air locker, new ball joints, u-joints, seals, Reid high steer knuckle, Fusion high steer arm, and HD diff cover, $4500. Already have new driveshafts? These axles are larger, so you can go to your local drivetrain shop and for a reasonable fee, they will shorten your driveshafts to fit.

Want to do some of the work yourself? Great! Ask about our parts deals we provide with our axles.

We have done a lot of work and research into ways to bring the cost down. Gone are the days that junk yard axles cost almost as much as new axles.

Check out our website for more detailed information on options. http://www.fusion4x4.com/#!jk-swap-axles/g090q

As always, we are available 7 days a week to answer questions and provide technical advice.

Reach us here, [email protected], or call: 313-773-6366.

 

[JTPhoto JK]

As much as I love the D60 build idea and I will build these one day, when my rig is no longer a DD, they are wicked heavy and really don't make any sense for a DD. You will add yet another 500-700lbs to your build.
If your rig is very little on road and 50%+ trail I'd say that is the route to go. Otherwise stay with the D44, combining durability with a bit of economy. Yah I know we don't drive Jeep to save gas but.

 

[tx2whlr]

As much as I love the D60 build idea and I will build these one day, when my rig is no longer a DD, they are wicked heavy and really don't make any sense for a DD. You will add yet another 500-700lbs to your build. If your rig is very little on road and 50%+ trail I'd say that is the route to go. Otherwise stay with the D44, combining durability with a bit of economy. Yah I know we don't drive Jeep to save gas but.

I've thought about this a lot ......if I didn't have to travel 800+ miles to get to the offroad locations I love......the 60's make an awful lot of sense.
If I ever get a chance to live where I want to instead of where I need to ..... I won't hesitate.