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Discussion Starter #1
I hope that all of your days were better than mine. My Jeep is driving me nuts (pun intended). I've recently installed a lift and 35" tires on my Jeep and although I love the way it looks, it pulls horribly to the right. I'm talking when accelerating, decelerating, coasting and braking. When accelerating, I'd be in the next lane within 250 ft.

To be more specific, I installed the Rancho 2" lift (RS66118BR9) and my tires are Firestone Destination MT/2 35x12.5r17 on the stock 17" sport rims - everything else is stock.

I got the alignments done at the shop where I bought the tires. They do all of the police cruiser alignments and are reputable shop in town however I don't think they are up to the task here. My tires are at 26 psi and have been re-balanced and cross-rotated in the front on the 2nd alignment.

I've searched all over the internet and watched countless youtube videos but nothing has given me an answer as to what's going on here. Before I spend anymore of my non-existent money I'd love to have a few educated guesses as to what's going on here.

I don't have the alignment sheet cause I'm an idiot and threw it out not thinking I'd need it. I've emailed the shop to see if they have it on file but haven't heard back. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Go to the shop and ask for the print out. What steering stabilizer are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@Lee H I'm using the stock steering stabilizer. I'll have to go back tomorrow at lunch and ask for the print out.
 

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I'm by no means a lift expert, but I would look into the geometry of the front axle. Adding a lift can rotate the axle forward, if the original control arms are used. Either new lower (longer) control arms or geometry correction brackets. Resetting the axle to it's proper tilt will improve the handling, but you may need to invest in a new front drive shaft to account for the increase in the shaft angle. The drive shaft angle is more of a concern on the 2 door. That's my educated guess...
 

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I'd normally say toe. The alignment shop would really have to be dolts to mess that up, but still. Next would be thrust angle of the front axle, set by the control arm lengths.
 

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Some tires seem to pull. Another thing that can cause a pull is a dragging brake. There is not much you can adjust in the suspension of a Jeep to fix a pull. Toe should be right, but it shouldn't cause a pull either way. As the castor on each side is fixed by being connected to the same solid axle you really can't adjust one side independently of the other.
Once you make sure your castor is right (You say you installed the Rancho 2" lift, what did you do for castor? Brackets, adjustable arms, fixed arms, or nothing?) I would make sure you don't have a mechanical issue like a dragging brake caliper and then consider it might be your tires.
Some have had a pull that would not go away and they installed a high pressure SS to push the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@386GreyWanderer - So if I add the Rancho geometry correction brackets then I'd need to adjust the driveshaft as well?

@DougRz - I'm going to go back to the shop today and get the spec sheet. I honestly thought that the toe looked out just by looking at it but I know it can be an illusion.

@GuzziMoto - I only installed the 2" lift which is barebones and comes with 4 coils and 4 shocks. I read that if only going with a 2" then I wouldn't need to adjust anything else. I think the steering stabilizer is just a bandaid solution and as such it's my last resort to fixing this!
 

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Your axles move sideways when lifting. Adjustable track bars fix this issue. I wonder if this has anything to do with your problem. I believe front moves toward driver and rear moves passenger. Might be your cause.
 

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@386GreyWanderer - So if I add the Rancho geometry correction brackets then I'd need to adjust the driveshaft as well?

@DougRz - I'm going to go back to the shop today and get the spec sheet. I honestly thought that the toe looked out just by looking at it but I know it can be an illusion.

@GuzziMoto - I only installed the 2" lift which is barebones and comes with 4 coils and 4 shocks. I read that if only going with a 2" then I wouldn't need to adjust anything else. I think the steering stabilizer is just a bandaid solution and as such it's my last resort to fixing this!
The lift is bare bones. But that isn't always enough. If you read the thread on that lift you will see that many people find that after that lift is installed they need to add either geometry brackets, adjustable front lower control arms, or longer front lower control arms, to get it to drive the way they want it to drive. Some don't need anything, but some do. That is because all Jeeps are different, and all Jeep owners are different. What works for me on my Jeep may or may not work for you on your Jeep.
One thing about Toe, often you will see where it appears that you have more Toe on one side than the other. Some people think that is an issue, but it is not. It simply comes down to how centered the front tires are when the measurements were made. The real Toe number to worry about is Total Toe. If Total Toe is right, Toe is right. Having a readout say you have more Toe on one side than the other does not in anyway cause a pull or other issue.
 

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Here is my alignment print out: https://ibb.co/7KK6RDg
Your castor is seriously low. Most look for around 5 degrees of castor. You are around 2 degrees. I would suggest you either get geometry brackets to correct that or adjustable / longer lower front control arms.
The brackets are better for ride quality, but they do hang down a little and if you off road in rocks you may prefer arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@GuzziMoto & @Jedi9 - Thank you guys for the input. I'm definitely going to order the bracket up and get it installed.

@Socaljk - I should have mentioned, I do have wheel spacers, 1.5". Second the Go Steelers!
 

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@GuzziMoto & @Jedi9 - Thank you guys for the input. I'm definitely going to order the bracket up and get it installed.

@Socaljk - I should have mentioned, I do have wheel spacers, 1.5". Second the Go Steelers!
The reason I asked is because I chased a pull to the right forever. When I ditched the wheel spacers it was gone. I had pulled all the "tabs" and installed them correctly but for some reason with them on I got a pull.
 

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When you did you lift you loosened all the control arms and track bars and re-torqued them with the weight of the Jeep on the tires? Thought process here is possible bushing bind causing havok? Let us know how the geo brackets make her ride. I was impressed when I put them on mine.
 

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Your axles move sideways when lifting. Adjustable track bars fix this issue. I wonder if this has anything to do with your problem. I believe front moves toward driver and rear moves passenger. Might be your cause.
An off-center axle can have a pull if it's off center enough. The wheel closest to the center of the vehicle will take on more weight and as such, will become the more dominant wheel and depending on the alignment of that wheel....
 

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At only 2" of lift, seriously consider a set of front lower control arms instead of the geometry brackets. The brackets tend to over correct and you lose ground clearance at only 2" of lift.

I recommend the Synergy fixed front lowers for an easy plug and play DIY installation.
 

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I would concur with Pressurized. I suffered from low caster also with a minimum lift and went with the fixed Terra Flex Sport arms and they helped, I think the Synergy are a little longer and would help you out a lot. I think you would see a night and day difference
 

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There is a giant thread on that lift.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/rancho-2-sport-system-w-4-springs-2096081.html
Some use geo brackets with great results, others use fixed or adjustable arms (also with great results). Some decide they need nothing, but whether that is because they truly need nothing or because they simply do know how much better it can be is hard to say.
The arms correct castor, and you clearly need that. The brackets correct castor and they improve the angle of the arms, flattening them out so they work better. The Ranch brackets have a variety of holes to choose from allowing you to use the amount of correction you need.
 
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