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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey ladies and gents. I have a 1998 Sahara on 4.5" lift on 33s. The PO never changed/upgraded the control arms. Looking for advice on what brand is a reliable brand and what are the best ones for the price.

*Side note* I'm a HighSchool student with 2 jobs (not funded by mommy and daddy) so I'm not trying to break the bank
 

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Buy once, cry once. I may be biased but I will suggest Metalcloak. The duroflex joint is designed to flex within the arm and self center, they are adjustable and come in aluminum or steel.
 

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Selleck, Can you put a thread out in about June? Letting us know how they are holding up. Maybe a couple of pics. Looked at those a few times. Thanks
Yeah, no problem. Says they use stock bushing and when the weather warms up I can post some pictures of them.
 

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You want something adjustable and something that has a flex joint style joint on one or both ends of each control arm. Metalcloak and Currie are both highly recommended brands, not cheap but it's money well spent.
 

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As suggested above, get something with either johnny joint or Duroflex joint ends. You would be better off to buy a couple of good ones at a time, and take more time replacing them, then settling for rubber bushings which will wear out fast.
 

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Hey ladies and gents. I have a 1998 Sahara on 4.5" lift on 33s. The PO never changed/upgraded the control arms. Looking for advice on what brand is a reliable brand and what are the best ones for the price.

*Side note* I'm a HighSchool student with 2 jobs (not funded by mommy and daddy) so I'm not trying to break the bank
You didn't mention how and where you drive. If it's mainly on the street with occasional of road, mainly trails, less costly arms will be satisfactory and hold up well. If you are frequently off road, disconnect your sway bar and constantly max flex the suspension, investing in better quality arms are the best route. Either way, with that lift height you do need to replace the lowers. You suspension caster has to be way off with stock arms and a 4.5" lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You didn't mention how and where you drive. If it's mainly on the street with occasional of road, mainly trails, less costly arms will be satisfactory and hold up well. If you are frequently off road, disconnect your sway bar and constantly max flex the suspension, investing in better quality arms are the best route. Either way, with that lift height you do need to replace the lowers. You suspension caster has to be way off with stock arms and a 4.5" lift.
It's not my DD and it's a mainly street with off-roading/ mudding every now and then, but I do plan on doing some trail riding eventually
 

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It's not my DD and it's a mainly street with off-roading/ mudding every now and then, but I do plan on doing some trail riding eventually
As mentioned above, buy good ones once instead of having to replace them down the road. I would start with a pair of front lowers (that will allow you to get your caster dialed in). Then buy a pair of rear lowers....stock lower arms are too short for that much lift, and the rear lowers will allow you to get your rear pinion angle where it should be.
 

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Says they use stock bushing and when the weather warms up I can post some pictures of them.
thats what scares me about those arms, the oem arms can flex as the stamped steel isnt as rigid as a solid arm. JJ or duroflex joints allow the rotation to happen in the joints them selves. once you eliminate the flex in the arm where will the rotation happen?

Pros and cons of long arm vs short arm
for long arm, depends if its a bolt on kit, not many pros. a custom made build, can be many pros, but takes a lot of knowledge, tools, and time

short arms are simple, dont get hung up in the rocks as easy, and are a lot less headache with few cons compared to even well set up custom mid-long arms rigs
 
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