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Started by removing the ol POS brake pedal and plugging the holes.

I used a 3/4" nut & bolt for the floor and 2 extra hard top retaining bolts and the original pedal assembly nuts that held it to the firewall. I also added a cut piece of a sump hose I had laying around as a seal, to prevent water or exhaust intrusion.

To remove the cable, start by pulling the 3/4 rubber plug through the floor by reaching up into and behind the wheel well.

Once out, you'll need to pull it through the frame. Pulling from front to back felt impossible to budge, so I disconnected the "skinny" end from it's mount just above the transfer case skid plate. Then pulled it from back to front... EZ

 

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Reattach the cable to the tcase bracket and re-engage the catch spines holding the cable in the mount. you may want to skip reinstalling for now, as I later found out it's much easier to install the fender well end first, then reroute back to here.

Find a good route for the cable to now aim toward the rear wheel well. I secured it for now with a short piece of plumber tape and self taping screw.
Plan is to use some conduit retainers later.

The rubber floor plug can be drawn father down the cable by simply twisting it left while pulling back on it.

The handbrake should arrive Tuesday.


More to follow.

 

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Following where are you putting the handle?

Between the door frame portion of the tub and the driver's seat. I run soft doors, so should be plenty of room there.

 

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I used Control Cables and have the brake handle between the seats on the tunnel plate. Cost $200.00 USD. very good quality.
View attachment 4570558 View attachment 4570558 View attachment 4570558

Cool... pics of it installed?

 

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Same spot in my plan as well. I have a console and cup holder between the seats so that area is a no go.

Nice hardware. I do like that the cable attachment remains under the tub.


I began test fitting this evening. Cable end will enter via wheel well, just behind and run under the seat belt reel, avoids having to drill through the heavier roll bar plate.

The boot is an added bonus, will hide the gnarly looking hardware and and otherwise exposed cable.


Added a stack of washers under the bracket at the 2 rearward bolts to allow the lever to be level with the door frame when in released position. Mostly for aesthetics.

May fine tune the centering but, for now my hand has plenty of room and this avoids having to alter the seat raise lever for the boot to clear.

 

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Now to drill, route cable and figure out a splice of cable between the two ends.

 

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Hole drilled and cable routed in to cab. (about 5/8") I simple used the underside mount hole to gauge how deep to run the step bit.

I will add, it's much easier to completely dismount the entire cable then attach through newly drill hole THEN route the cable back around and through the retainer bracket above the skid plate.

Once finished, I intend to bed liner spray my wheel wells since they literally disintegrated back when I was installing the fender flares.

 

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Finished:

Drilled out the cable retainer from the POS foot brake mechanism, added a bolt.

8.5" of 3/32 steel cable, and cable ferrule (hammered flat on anvil) between the 2 ends.

Reattach brake lever to mounting plate and retainer to main cable.

Key point on this cable end... you want to pull some of the slack into the cab before measuring the cable between it and the lever. Start by running the slack completely out of the adjuster bolt under the cab.

The one I started with (11") did not allow for being able to take up enough slack at the adjuster underneath. Which caused way too much upward travel in the brake handle, leaving it just over the seat bottom height.

I came back with a shorter cable (about 8ish inches), pulled up the slack in the main cable, then adjusted from under the cab.

Result: now I only have to pull about 4 clicks upward on the handle, and it stays lower than the seat bottom height and out of the way for entering and exiting the seat.

Snug everything up, re-tighten/adjust the cable tensioner underneath.

Reinstall seat belt. Perfect fit for the boot, and hides everything.

Install the boot... added a couple small self tapping screws through the base/foot of the boot to secure it to tub floor.


Door clearance.