front will need ~2.5" extension: 16" - 13.5" (max w/o extension) = ~2.5"Rancho 9000XL 255 front shocks (25.9” extended / 15.9” compressed)
Rancho 9000XL 256 rear shocks (24.2” extended / 15.3” compressed)
Drivers Front: 5 1/8" shock, 9 1/8" spring
Passenger Front: 5" shock, 9" spring
(4"+ bump stop required??)
Drivers Rear: 7 3/8" shock, 10 1/4"-10 3/4" spring (angled upper perch, shortest and tallest point)
Passenger Rear: 7 1/8" shock, 9 3/4"-10 1/2" spring
(3" bump stop required?)
my above response was only an educated guess based on shocks alone. definitely do not follow my suggestions blindly.Is there something that I'm missing with that way of thinking?
anything is possible - you'll work those details out in your full bump check.With the tires on the ground so the suspension is at ride height, if I have 9" of space between my spring perches but only 5" of space for my shock to compress before its totally bottomed out, doesn't that mean I need at least 4" of bump stop to avoid damaging the shock or shock mount? That was the question, and I will confirm by lifting the axle to see but I would expect it to be somewhat in line with that.
you can push up from the center with one jack to check full bump, or use two jacks on both sides to. two jacks is easiest because you can check full bump, full droop, and full flex on both sides in a matter of minutes.Oh and one question: do you lift the axle from the center so it goes up evenly on both sides, or lift one corner at a time to get the axle on as much of an angle as possible? Or do you need to do it both ways to confirm any possible clearance issues?
the track bar will probably bind up and likely won't allow the axle through the whole cycle, you may have to have a buddy bounce on the downward side when checking full flex. are you using the stock track bar with a relocation bracket, or what? that is very likely the reason it took so long to get in (binding) - or you're just simply doing it the hard way. i'd suggest doing your full bump check with and without the track bar in the rear, because you may find the track bar to be your limiting factor (watch for hitting on the frame at the gas tank mount). If you find that to be the case, you may need to change it out for better clearance. also pay attention to the relocation bracket vs fuel lines. they often hit the fuel lines at bump.Also, I'm not going to be removing my rear track bar. It took about 5 hours to get that effing thing in, so I will just keep it in place and watch for clearance issues. I assume that should be fine.
with the shock length you're installing, you'll find the factory rear sway bar links will bind up. you will have to disconnect them to accurately cycle the axle - then you'll need to buy/install/make longer length rear sway bar links. if you already have links of the appropriate length installed, i'd still suggest unhooking them - it's only two bolts and less than a minute.I will remove my front quick discos but will leave the rears in place since that should replicate any situation I may be using in the real world in the future.
I bought 3", and 2" 6160 aluminum round bar stock for mine. I looked at their scrap first but they didn't have anything I wanted. I got a 6" piece of the 3" diameter and an 8" piece of the 2" diameter. Cost was ~$35.If anyone else has ideas on how to add 4" of bump stop to both front and rear please let me know, I'll be doing some research in the meantime!
Did you take any pictures? Posting pictures is kinda the point of this thread!So after finding what I did:
1) my measurements without doing any of this were very close to being on point (measuring distance between factory solid bump stops, minus the distance your shock can travel before fully compressing).
2) I don't know where the numbers suggested here come in to play, they seem quite a bit short and could lead to a number of issues.
don't bolt that much hockey pucks down. you can simply order more body lift pucks, or stick one hockey puck in front on each side under the body lift puck.Now the question is, how can I run a 4" bump stop? I ordered 3" body lift pucks (3" diameter front, 2" diameter rear but I'm going to need more than that.
I have left over hockey pucks I can run in the front by stacking four 1" pucks on top of each other and bolting down to the bottom. For the rear I have a 3" bump stop on the way to bolt to the top, but I'm wondering if I can bolt one hockey puck to the bottom of the spring perch to get me to the proper bump stop extension length.
wow, thats way more bump than I expected you would need. Have you measured the shocks to verify the compressed lengths they advertised? The shock bodies look too large. And have you verified the PN's are accurate? Because 16" compressed length should not need 4" of bump. You may have the wrong shocks? Mislabeled, wrong stuff delivered, or whatever.Won't let me edit my post, one picture didn't show up so I'm reposting it here:
Rear Drivers side with 4" of bump stop mocked up (you can't see bout about 1/2 travel left on shock, but the track bar was starting to bind with the underside of the Jeep at this point when the axle was lifted evenly (I think this is called full bump).