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I hate to spend so much money to do this but I am tired of being on 3.21 gears and 35s. It’s not so much to get up and go mow but when I’m on the highway and riding Bridges or Little Hills here by Jeep keeps dropping to 40 or even third gear at speeds of 70 mph. Also been told I have seen that gas mileage form proving tiny bit as the car is not working so hard.


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I wish you nothing but the best with your new gears when installed. My shop called and everything is finished (gears and 2.5 AEV lift). The shop I used has been in business about 12 years and does aprox 500 to 700 gear installs a year. Their shop is old but has 6 or 7 lifts and half a dozen full time mechanics. Had a long talk with the owner and he certainly seemed knowledgeable. He's personally knows many of the gear mfgs because they buy a lot of gear sets. Obviously they try and sell him gear sets!

Bottom line he buys what has given them the best performance with the least amount of issues. Price is really not a factor he explained because he can't afford to do many redo's on gears. He took the time to explain exactly why he uses the products he uses but wasn't dis'ing other mfgs. A lot depends on the skill of the mechanic installing which applies to almost anything.

Since there's plenty of satisfied Yukon gear users right here on this forum I'm sure they are a fine product. My test will be how quiet these gears are and will they hold up over many miles of use. Only time will tell on that aspect but I'm looking forward to picking up my Jeep with the new gears.

Again all the best with your regear project. :)
Thanks. It is being geared up today. It should have been done on Monday.
 

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I got two quotes form local shops today in Metro Detroit. Going from 3.21 with new carrier to 4.10 or 4.56

Other Shop - 1750 w/Yukon parts and lifetime warranty on parts and labor...
Same...local DFW shop quote is $1,700 w Yukon parts and lifetime warranty on all...it would be $1,500 if I was at 3.73, but $200 for new carrier.
What shop is this? My quote was from Fenton, 1450 and 300 for the carrier.
 

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I wonder how the factory breaks in new gears in all the cars and trucks sold each year because you know 99.9% of new vehicle owners don't follow any of the recommended break in procedures stated in this thread.
 

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I hate to spend so much money to do this but I am tired of being on 3.21 gears and 35s. It’s not so much to get up and go mow but when I’m on the highway and riding Bridges or Little Hills here by Jeep keeps dropping to 40 or even third gear at speeds of 70 mph. Also been told I have seen that gas mileage form proving tiny bit as the car is not working so hard.


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Just do it.


You will have some initial buyers remorse during the break in period. But when you edge onto the freeway after that, the stupid grin while mashing the skinny pedal will wash it all away. Too much fun jumping off the line with a 5,000lb Jeep when so many people expect to dust you.
 

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I wonder how the factory breaks in new gears in all the cars and trucks sold each year because you know 99.9% of new vehicle owners don't follow any of the recommended break in procedures stated in this thread.
My guess it has to do with factory gears being set up perfectly most of the time.
 

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Guess some you guys are lucky with your rates. South Florida flavors 100 to 125 per hour and everybody’s quoting 10 to 12 hours total.


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One of the Tampa shops I follow was advertising $1600 a while back for labor, Yukon gears and lube lockers. Red Scorpion.
 

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I paid around 1,600. Even though another 500 or so seems expensive if that’s the going rate in your area I would still do it. That’s how happy I am with mine. Not ideal but sometimes you don’t have much of a choice.


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I just upgraded from a 1975 CJ5, to a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Moab addition this past week. It's already is on 35's with 2.5 inches of lift but the previous owner didn't regear it. I was quoted 1800 to go from stock 3.21 to 4.10, but before I did that I was wondering if that would be enough for daily driving and some trail riding, or if I should go to a 4.56 or even up to a 4.88. However I am looking to do some sort of engine mods (maybe a supercharger when my bank account recovers) to get a little horse power back and was wondering if that would change what ratio I should get. Please let me know.
 

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I just upgraded from a 1975 CJ5, to a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Moab addition this past week. It's already is on 35's with 2.5 inches of lift but the previous owner didn't regear it. I was quoted 1800 to go from stock 3.21 to 4.10, but before I did that I was wondering if that would be enough for daily driving and some trail riding, or if I should go to a 4.56 or even up to a 4.88. However I am looking to do some sort of engine mods (maybe a supercharger when my bank account recovers) to get a little horse power back and was wondering if that would change what ratio I should get. Please let me know.
I'd say 4.56... But many do 4.88. I never thought of the Jeep as a sportscar, but with the 4.56 gearing and the Pedal Commander, it can be made to feel pretty spunky.

My regear was just over $1100.
 

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I just upgraded from a 1975 CJ5, to a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Moab addition this past week. It's already is on 35's with 2.5 inches of lift but the previous owner didn't regear it. I was quoted 1800 to go from stock 3.21 to 4.10, but before I did that I was wondering if that would be enough for daily driving and some trail riding, or if I should go to a 4.56 or even up to a 4.88. However I am looking to do some sort of engine mods (maybe a supercharger when my bank account recovers) to get a little horse power back and was wondering if that would change what ratio I should get. Please let me know.
Unless your in a flat state and don’t go off road, 4.10 will work.
I went 4.56 and happy and I am in SFL and don’t rock crawl. Trails and mud. I added a Tru trac in back and I love this so far. Every day and more miles I put it gets better. A few shops said 4.10 is fine and I have driven a Rubi on 35s and it seems fine. But you do this hopefully once.
I also have an auto. If your on manual, everyone might say 4.88


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Moab's came with 3.21's? I would think 3.73's for the money thay get for them. With 3.21's you will need new carriers F&R. I get my Dana 4.56's on Sat if the world lasts that long.
 

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I just upgraded from a 1975 CJ5, to a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Moab addition this past week. It's already is on 35's with 2.5 inches of lift but the previous owner didn't regear it. I was quoted 1800 to go from stock 3.21 to 4.10, but before I did that I was wondering if that would be enough for daily driving and some trail riding, or if I should go to a 4.56 or even up to a 4.88. However I am looking to do some sort of engine mods (maybe a supercharger when my bank account recovers) to get a little horse power back and was wondering if that would change what ratio I should get. Please let me know.
Based on what you have said, I’d recommend 4.56 gears. I have 35s and 4.88 gears, but wanted a little more performance since I’m towing a nearly 3,500 pound camper. The difference between 4.56 and 4.88 is only about 200 rpm at 70 mph with the automatic. You really can’t go wrong either way. You might prefer 4.56 if you frequently drive 80 mph or faster.
 

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I just upgraded from a 1975 CJ5, to a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Moab addition this past week. It's already is on 35's with 2.5 inches of lift but the previous owner didn't regear it. I was quoted 1800 to go from stock 3.21 to 4.10, but before I did that I was wondering if that would be enough for daily driving and some trail riding, or if I should go to a 4.56 or even up to a 4.88. However I am looking to do some sort of engine mods (maybe a supercharger when my bank account recovers) to get a little horse power back and was wondering if that would change what ratio I should get. Please let me know.
I have stock 4.10’s with 6-speed manual and 35’s. It does fine. However with that said, I wouldn’t spend money on installing 4.10’s, go with at least 4.56
 
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