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Need some help on an issue I'm having and can't seem to figure out. Replaced brakes on the front along with the rotor on the front passenger side. Everything went well other than the fact that my cruise control will not turn on.



When scanning for codes I get P0581 and a few others related to the switch. Replaced the switch, didn't correct the issue. The cruise will turn on for a few seconds after clearing codes but wont turn on again after. Everything else on the steering wheel is working though.


I checked the wheel sensors and they dont look like they are having issues. I'm out of ideas now and could use some more. Anyone run into this issue before?
 

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Everything in the steering wheel is interconnected, so it could be another switch or the clockspring. When my cruise switch went bad it caused my radio buttons and horn not to work, but the cruise buttons worked fine.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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Everything in the steering wheel is interconnected, so it could be another switch or the clockspring. When my cruise switch went bad it caused my radio buttons and horn not to work, but the cruise buttons worked fine.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I think I will go up there and have them replace the clockspring then since it should still be under the recall. (2012 jk)
 

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Might be something in the ABS wheel speed sensor as it is used for the CC as feedback.
This code doesn't have to do with wheel speed sensor or anything related to the brakes. It is the PCM sensing higher than 5.2v on the speed control 1 wire. So somewhere between the switch on the steering wheel and the PCM is higher than 5.2v or the PCM is having issues.

Could be the switch, the clock spring, a wire short or PCM.

The factory service manual way to diag this is check for voltage over 5.2 at the connector to the steering wheel speed switch. If it is look for a short to power. If not then you go through a procedure of inducing a short to ground and triggering a code at the clock spring, before the clock spring in order to figure out which component is bad.
 

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This code doesn't have to do with wheel speed sensor or anything related to the brakes. It is the PCM sensing higher than 5.2v on the speed control 1 wire. So somewhere between the switch on the steering wheel and the PCM is higher than 5.2v or the PCM is having issues.

Could be the switch, the clock spring, a wire short or PCM.

The factory service manual way to diag this is check for voltage over 5.2 at the connector to the steering wheel speed switch. If it is look for a short to power. If not then you go through a procedure of inducing a short to ground and triggering a code at the clock spring, before the clock spring in order to figure out which component is bad.

That's exactly what I had though. The coincidence between replacing brake pads and the rotor made me wonder if the wheel speed sensor had an issue but it isn't throwing any codes specifically related to that. Every code so far has been related to the switch. I replaced the front facing cruise control switch and got the same results so it must be somewhere else.
 

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Was clearing codes again in an attempt to figure out a more exact cause I noticed that occasionally it will also give:


P0591 - Cruise Ctrl - Multi-Function Input B Circ Range/Perf


Going to see if I can find a short or something later tonight.
 

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And the plot thickens. This code is related to the other wire coming from the cruise control switches.

Did some additional research. This makes me really think that it's the cruise control switch pod or the clock spring. The cruise control switch pod is an interesting component. There are 4 buttons and 2 wires and a ground for the speed control. Depending what button you press, it will apply a different resistance to the 2 wires (signal 1 and signal 2). You can pull the switch pod (after pulling airbag) and test for these values. Chart is below.

Note that there are 11 or so other pins on the speed switch pod. Looks like one other function of the speed switch pod is that it takes switch inputs from the left side of the steering wheel and converts it to messages on the LIN bus. That then goes through clock spring and to modules like the dash cluster.

Anyway, here is the resistance values for the signal 1, signal 2 to the ground wire.
 

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And the plot thickens. This code is related to the other wire coming from the cruise control switches.

Did some additional research. This makes me really think that it's the cruise control switch pod or the clock spring. The cruise control switch pod is an interesting component. There are 4 buttons and 2 wires and a ground for the speed control. Depending what button you press, it will apply a different resistance to the 2 wires (signal 1 and signal 2). You can pull the switch pod (after pulling airbag) and test for these values. Chart is below.

Note that there are 11 or so other pins on the speed switch pod. Looks like one other function of the speed switch pod is that it takes switch inputs from the left side of the steering wheel and converts it to messages on the LIN bus. That then goes through clock spring and to modules like the dash cluster.

Anyway, here is the resistance values for the signal 1, signal 2 to the ground wire.



I thought the same thing. I had replaced the switch on the steering wheel (56046094AF) and still getting the same results. I took it to the dealership for some recall fixes that I had been putting off to long. I'm not ready to give up and get charged $135 for them to tell me it's a wire that has worn out and shorted just yet so that's all they did but here's where the plot thickens even more!


When leaving I plugged in the ol' superships reader again and got B16FD - Front Right Fog Lamp Control Circuit High. I'm thinking the issue is a wire shorting somewhere because I believe the wheel sensors run through the same wire loom that the fog lamps run through.


Going to trace the loom and see if the light itself has a short or something later today and will update.



Thanks a ton Sequel for the research. Will let everyone here know what I figure out. I'm sure someone will run across the same codes later down the line and get to the point I was at with nothing working. :pullinghair:
 

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So I took it up to the dealer and they though it was the switch also but since that was already replaced they ruled it out. One thing I didn't notice was that the volume switch on the back of the steering wheel was acting odd. It seemed to jump up multiple volume levels with each press and I'm not sure if I'm just noticing stuff now.

They said they are going to check the clock spring and see if it needs to be replaced. Does the extended warranty they have issued for them cover a replacement? Not sure if my jeep is included since I didn't see it in the recall list when searching. Is a 2012 JK left hand drive.
 

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Check the fluid level sensor under the brake reservoir.
 

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Check the fluid level sensor under the brake reservoir.
How would I check it to make sure it's working correctly. Will definitely check it in the morning though and see.

Does anyone happen to know what how the switches on the steering wheel are labeled or have a diagram? I'm wondering if that volume switch is the one actually throwing a high voltage alert since it is right behind the cruise control switch. Not sure how I could check the voltage on it though.
 

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How would I check it to make sure it's working correctly. Will definitely check it in the morning though and see.

Does anyone happen to know what how the switches on the steering wheel are labeled or have a diagram? I'm wondering if that volume switch is the one actually throwing a high voltage alert since it is right behind the cruise control switch. Not sure how I could check the voltage on it though.
A brand new sensor was used when I had my master cylinder replaced. I go "Slightly" broken during the install of the components and created the same issue you are chasing. The mechanic swapped out the old for the new during a test and BINGO, Cruise was alive.

I would imagine any sensor that was disturbed during the work you performed is suspect as the cruise control isn't going to function with any of them out of spec.
 

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Dealership said that it's the clock spring going out and they ordered one that should be in on Tuesday. Hopefully that's the issue and it's fixed since it's under warranty.

Will definitely look into the sensor you were talking about if it doesn't turn out to be the clock spring because that sounds like it definitely could have been messed with when trying to compress the brake piston while doing the pads and rotors.
 

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Update:

Clock spring was not delivering power to the switch. Clock spring was replaced under the extended recall warranty (2012 jk).

Thanks everyone for the help troubleshooting!
 
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