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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ordered my currie steering upgrade and was just wondering if there is anything I should know as far as installing it goes. It looks pretty straight forward but I don't want any surprises once I go to throw it in this weekend
 

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It's very straight forward, should be no issues. Set the tie-rod length so the fronts of your tires are 1/16" to 1/8" closer together than in the rear. That will give you the correct toe-in setting.

For the steering stabilizer's (aka damper) mounting bracket make sure your tires are pointing straight ahead and position the damper's ram at mid-stroke. Then mount its bracket onto the drag link at the position where the ram is at mid stroke so it won't bottom out when turned all the way left or right and you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info Jerry. I have never done an alignment so what are the points of reference for the toe in measurements?
 

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There is a write on here about diy TJ alignment. Someone may chime in with the link.
 

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This site at the below link will explain it, there's nothing technical, challenging, or difficult on setting your own toe-in or re-centering the steering wheel.

Basic Jeep Front End Alignment

Just put a tape-measure between similar locations on the tire treads front and rear and rotate the tie rod until the fronts are 1/16" to 1/8" closer together than in the rear. That gives you the right amount of toe-in.

You can also measure between two pieces of 1" square aluminum tubing as shown below which is an easier more 'repeatable' way of setting the toe-in. Simply make marks on the square tubing at points equal to your tie diameter and measure between the marks as shown. Photos courtesy of Blain Johnson at Black Magic Brakes.

By a little care and taking your time, you can very easily achieve a toe-in setting that is every bit as accurate as the latest laser-guided alignment rack with an experienced alignment tech can produce. No exaggeration at all. I haven't paid for an alignment in 15+ years. It's not rocket science. No worries about anything but your toe-in or centering the steering wheel, installing the Currie kit won't affect the caster or camber angles.

Whichever method you choose, the weight of the Jeep needs to be on the front axle. Either the front axle needs to be sitting on jack stands or the tires must be on and on the ground. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome that's exactly what I needed! I just wasn't sure exactly where to measure from but that cleared it up for me. Thank you!
 

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This is awesome, I too just got my currie steering in the mail, installing tomorrow, thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I got the new currie correctlync in and aligned! Took it out for a test drive on a very bumpy road and am pleased to report my death wobble is gone! All that's left now is to put in the steering damper in and she's all done! And holy cow! I read and saw pics of how much beefier this system is compared to stock but until you see it and pick it up! This thing is amazing!
 

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Mine is needing some love in this area too. I have looked at this setup so many times and wish I had the money right now to get this same setup. Hopefully mine will make it till I can save up the money. New wife, new house, baby on the way is killing the upgrade money!! Lol
 

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Glad ya got it figured out!

How does the correctlync compare to the ZJ setup? Is it stronger than the ZJ components? I am looking to upgrade mine but with a new rubi 44 rear, MC CAs, MC trackbar, and re-gear I am tapped out for awhile... I would feel better spending $170 at O'Riellys for the parts vs $560 on the currie website.
 

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In the mean time, you can replace the OE tie rod with a ZJ Grand Cherokee tie rod which is significantly beefier than what comes on the TJ. Congrats on and enjoy that new baby, I'm glad my last one was 24 years ago lol!
 

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Glad ya got it figured out!

How does the correctlync compare to the ZJ setup? Is it stronger than the ZJ components? I am looking to upgrade mine but with a new rubi 44 rear, MC CAs, MC trackbar, and re-gear I am tapped out for awhile... I would feel better spending $170 at O'Riellys for the parts vs $560 on the currie website.
The ZJ setup only strengthens the tie rod, not the drag link or tie rod ends as the Currie system beefs up too. Plus the Currie tie rod is significantly stronger than the ZJ tie rod. The ZJ tie rod is still a good direct replacement stronger upgrade however until you can go with the Currie kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Glad ya got it figured out! How does the correctlync compare to the ZJ setup? Is it stronger than the ZJ components? I am looking to upgrade mine but with a new rubi 44 rear, MC CAs, MC trackbar, and re-gear I am tapped out for awhile... I would feel better spending $170 at O'Riellys for the parts vs $560 on the currie website.
I ordered it through four wheel parts and after taxes it was $470. Still pretty spendy but it's a one time expense as I doubt I'll ever bend or break it!
 

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The ZJ is a good upgrade if you can't afford the Currie. I ran it for a few years until I bent my drag link


I wish I had saved my money and wen't straight to the Currie. I saw a post on another thread, guy said he got Currie off Amazon for $455 with free shipping.
 

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The ZJ setup only strengthens the tie rod, not the drag link or tie rod ends as the Currie system beefs up too. Plus the Currie tie rod is significantly stronger than the ZJ tie rod. The ZJ tie rod is still a good direct replacement stronger upgrade however until you can go with the Currie kit.
Ah, you're right, I didnt realize the drag link was stronger as well.

I ordered it through four wheel parts and after taxes it was $470. Still pretty spendy but it's a one time expense as I doubt I'll ever bend or break it!
Valid point. I may do the ZJ mod first, I am only running 33s at the moment but I would rather overbuild. Save the coin and then opt for the currie setup.
 

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The currie makes stock look like a tooth pick.
 

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I have actually bent mine but it is good stuff!
 

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I have actually bent mine but it is good stuff!
This may sound odd but it's true that Currie specifically heat treats that tie rod so it will bend just before anything critical upstream of it breaks. If that size of steel tubing was heat treated differently so it wouldn't bend at that point which is easy to do and costs no more, we'd all be breaking stuff like knuckles, TREs, etc. Make no mistake, it takes a LOT to bend it but be thankful when it does. Currie's Currectlync system is better designed than most realize. :)
 

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Sweet! My ultimate steering kit just arrived yesterday!
This weekend my TJ will be fully Currie equipped!
 

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I got my currie steering in today as well. Smooth install, had to cut one of the stock bolts off in the driver side due to the stud being loose and not allowing me to get the nut off. Still an easy job. Like said earlier, it's a lot beefier then I imagined.
 
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